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UPDATE David Eyre's Pancake: 1966

January 2, 2011 • 81 Comments

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David Eyre's Pancake

- Amanda

A few days after publishing this post, I received a note from Conard Eyre, David Eyre's daughter. She has given me permission to share it with you:

Aloha Amanda,

My name is Conard Eyre, I am the daughter of David Eyre!! A friend sent me your blog with Daddy's pancake, and I am feeling very wistful, reading all the touching, meaningful and precious remarks. As you can imagine, the pancake had a very special place at our family table, and made my Daddy's creation a household name. I have amazing stories, of how he traded the recipe with Craig, for a week in NYC in Craig's Greenwich Village Apt., how, when early engaged and visiting my husband's stuffy NY friends for Easter weekend in Rumson NJ, the pancake recipe appeared full color and all. I was a long way from home, but that day, I was a Hawaiian princess!!

On a very personal note, in 2008, Daddy, at the ripe age of 96, (with all his marbles, but a desire to move on to the heavenly kitchen in the sky,) simply decided to stop eating. We supported him all the way, and prepared his "last supper", naturally, it was the pancake. It got a thumbs-up, and was perfection..

His joy spending time in the kitchen was addictive, and my inherited love of cooking became my profession. I have had my own catering company since 1974. Craig's recipe has taken on a life of it's own in my family, and I would love to connect with you.

Aloha, Conard Eyre

And here is my previous post:

Each week, over the next few weeks, I'll feature recipes from different eras that appear in The Essential New York Times Cookbook.

Craig Claiborne described making the acquaintance of this oven-baked pancake, "in the handsome, Japanese-style home of the David Eyres in Honolulu," as if he had met Grace Kelly. “With Diamond Head in the distance, a brilliant, palm-ringed sea below and this delicately flavored pancake before us, we seemed to have achieved paradise.”

Life was good if you were a food writer in the 1960s. Mistakes (Claiborne doubled the butter in his recipe) passed without a public shaming in the paper's corrections column or the blogosphere. A few weeks later, he simply mentioned airily, "The food editor was in such reverie on this return from Hawaii he did not notice the gremlins in his measuring spoons.”

Forty years later, readers are still making the pancake with no less bliss. It appears on a dozen blogs, embellished with family stories and photos and new-and-improved versions of the recipe. (Eyre, by the way, said he got his from the “St. Francis Hotel Cookbook” published in 1919, but his calls for more flour and egg. Both belong to a family of oven-baked pancakes sometimes called either German pancakes or Dutch babies.)

What keeps cooks faithful to one recipe is often some confluence of ease and surprise. Eyre’s pancake possesses both. A batter of flour, milk, eggs, and nutmeg is blended together, then poured into a hot skillet filled with butter and baked. Anyone confused? I didn’t think so.

The surprise comes at the end, when you open the oven door to find a poufy, toasted, utterly delectable-looking pancake. It soon collapses as you shower it with confectioners’ sugar and lemon juice, slice it up and devour it. It’s sweet and tart, not quite a pancake and not quite a crepe. But lovable all the same.

Readers:

“So many of us eat essentially the same foods, over and over, each day for breakfast. It was for me, a young man in my first apartment, a revelation when Craig Claiborne introduced a Breakfast Pancake on April 10, 1966. I still have the page out of the magazine I tore out and saved. I have prepared his recipe at least 500 times since, first in a cast iron skillet and in recent years in a paella pan. Being impatient, 20 minutes was too long to wait for it to bake, so I have inched up the temperature over the years and enjoy a pancake that creeps up over the edge of the pan and browns along the edges in less than 10 minutes of baking. His original recipe calls for sprinkling lemon juice and powdered sugar on the baked pancake but up here in the north woods, maple syrup is the finishing touch. Sometimes I sauté thin apple slices sprinkled with a bit of sugar before pouring the batter in the pan for a variation on the original recipe.” - Roland Krause, Harbor Springs, MI, letter.

“Surely a golden thread through my life… My memory is of jumping up and making it then and there. Once I passed through Honolulu and phoned David Eyre, the address blazed from the directory: no. 1 Diamond Head Drive. When I thanked him for all the lovely Sunday mornings he remarked that I wasn’t the first to call, either. Later, I moved to Indonesia where Sundays were so different from L.A.; without even noticing I forgot both pancake and recipe. Years later, a friend sent me a copy of a cooking magazine with recipes from readers. A woman from the Midwest sent an “oven pancake” which she said had a man’s name but she never learned it. There it was and I felt that golden thread connecting my two lives, then (L.A.) and now (Jakarta).” - Loura White, letter.

Cooking Notes:

Don’t overmix the batter, or the pancake will be tough – a few lumps are fine.

This is the moment to call your well-seasoned iron skillet into service.

1966: David Eyre’s Pancake

Serves 2 to 4

  • 1/3 cup all-purpose flour
  • 1/2 cup whole milk
  • 2 eggs, lightly beaten
  • Pinch of nutmeg
  • 4 tablespoons (one half stick) of unsalted butter
  • 2 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar
  • Juice of half a lemon

1. Heat oven to 425 degrees. Combine the flour, milk, eggs, and nutmeg in a bowl. Beat lightly. Leave the batter a little lumpy.

2. Melt the butter in a 12-inch skillet with a heatproof handle. When it is very hot, pour in the batter. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until the pancake is golden brown.

3. Sprinkle with the sugar and return briefly to the oven. Sprinkle with lemon juice, and serve with jelly, jam, or marmalade.

Footnote: April 10, 1966: “Pancake Nonpareil” by Craig Claiborne. Recipe adapted from David Eyre.

 

Jump to Comments (81)

Comments (81)

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6 months ago Kerstin

Does it really rise up the sides of the pan like this? I made it last night and it was delicious and bubbly, but it stayed at the bottom of the pan and was quite thick. Do you swirl the batter around before baking it?
All in all very easy and quick, super enjoyable and versatile recipe, thank you!

Tad_and_amanda_in_the_kitchen

6 months ago Amanda Hesser

Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.

It does! I'm mystified because I've never had a problem with it not rising up the sides of the pan. Was your oven fully heated before putting in the pan? That's the only reason I can think of that it wouldn't rise up the sides.

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over 2 years ago Joanne LG

Last week my daughter called me for the recipe for what we lovingly called "The Big Fat Pancake" in our house. I remember the day when my mother and I found the recipe in the New York Times. We tried it right away and were hooked. Through some errors, I learned that if you want to double the recipe, bake it in 2 pans (I use cast iron skillets.) We love it with lemon and confectioner's sugar--nothing else. And, each one doesn't serve more than 2 people. I guess we're big eaters.

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over 2 years ago Pauline Gaines

Amanda, I just saw the comment you left on my "Big Pancake" Blogher post (not sure when you left it) so I zipped right on over here. i love getting more backstory on the mastermind behind the Big Pancake. I will have to share it with my kids, who clamor for this delicacy every weekend. Thank you for introducing me -- and loads of others -- to this fabulous concoction. I love your site, btw, and will be visiting for recipe ideas! Best, Pauline

Tad_and_amanda_in_the_kitchen

over 2 years ago Amanda Hesser

Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.

Hi Pauline, thanks for stopping by -- hope to see you here more often!

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almost 3 years ago Annerw

I made this often for our family. My husband and I were not married until 1967 so I don't think we saw the original post but my recollection is that sometime in the 70's (perhaps when cc was retiring)?) it was reprised as a most requested recipe. We called it puff pancake in our family to distinguish it from "flat pancakes".
Thanks for the memories.

Tad_and_amanda_in_the_kitchen

almost 3 years ago Amanda Hesser

Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.

Glad you rediscovered it here!

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over 3 years ago vera ann

I have had this recipe in one of my hand written cook books and never tried it for some reason..Now I have a reason. Thank you for posting a classic.

Tad_and_amanda_in_the_kitchen

over 3 years ago Amanda Hesser

Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.

You're welcome -- hope you'll give it a try. It's a great recipe!

Emiko_davies_new_portrait

over 3 years ago Emiko

I love this - the story, the letter, the history and the recipe itself. It's right up my alley and I can't wait to try it out!

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over 3 years ago YumMom

My mom made these when we were growing up in the 70s. She called them Bismarcks. So delicious. Just made the Eyre recipe this morning, and even though I used half the butter called for in the pan, it was delicious!

Mcs

over 3 years ago mcs3000

Conard Eyre's note is beautiful to read. It's so nice she let you share it with us.

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over 3 years ago Rhonda35

@reatta - If you look under the first picture for the slideshow, there is an orange "share" symbol and next to that is a printer icon. If you click on that, it gives you a print-ready version of the recipe without all the photos.

Dsc03010

over 3 years ago betteirene

This is one recipe that I haven't tweaked. I'm too afraid that if I change it, it will be for the worse. How cool is the Internet! What would Craig Claiborne/Pierre Franey have done with it?

Winnie100

over 3 years ago WinnieAb

Aw, what a sweet letter. And as I've mentioned before, this recipe has become my family's fav weekend bfast...so easy and tasty. We all love it.

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over 3 years ago raetta

loved your recipe for pancakes and will make them this week, however i did not like getting 5 pages of pics with recipe, to much ink to waste. did i do something wrong in printing it. thanks rae thomson

Tad_and_amanda_in_the_kitchen

over 3 years ago Amanda Hesser

Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.

Didn't realize it would print the entire slideshow -- sorry about that. I've forwarded this to our tech team to look into. Thanks for letting me know!

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over 3 years ago Rhonda35

See my reply regarding your printer issue above.

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over 3 years ago Soozll

Happy New Year! How cool to get a note from David Eyer's daughter! I hope you scrapebook all the notes from recipe originators to keep with your copy of the Cookbook for posterity sake. What an historic addendum it would make. I only made a similar recipe in the past year and fell in love with it. I love it as a dessert; quick to make, not too sweet and with a lot of possibilities for garnishing it. I must give this version a try. Thanks for the update to the original posting of this recipe.

Ozoz_profile

over 3 years ago Kitchen Butterfly

How fantastic - and what a small world this is. Thanks for sharing the update with us. I still have to make it :-). Have a great 2011 everyone

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over 3 years ago lastnightsdinner

This is so, so wonderful. Thank you for sharing this with us, Amanda - you must have just been bursting when you received this note!

Chris_in_oslo

over 3 years ago Greenstuff

Chris is a trusted source on General Cooking

Good heavens! This was a family classic for us as well, but I hadn't had it in years until last week. I didn't trust my popover pans not to stick, so I thought I'd go back to this old favorite. We sometimes had it with the powdered sugar, sometimes with the apples that others seem to like. But usually, we ate it with lingonberries, and that's what we did last week. I'm off to search and see if I can find an original clipping.

Tad_and_amanda_in_the_kitchen

over 3 years ago Amanda Hesser

Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.

Hello all, and happy New Year! Please check out the updated blog post, with a letter from David Eyre's daughter, Conard!

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over 3 years ago drbabs

Barbara is a trusted source on General Cooking.

Dear Amanda, HOW sweet! Thank you so much for sharing this!

Mrs._larkin_370

over 3 years ago mrslarkin

Mrs. Larkin is a trusted source on Baking.

That was very special! Thanks for sharing it with us, Amanda.

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almost 4 years ago alexa_van_de_walle

Amanda,
Inspired by your new book, my mother handed over three recipe scrapbooks to me earlier this week for me to "borrow". I've poured over them, called her several times, done a lot of google research and reminisced intensely about meals she cooked in the early 60s and 70s and how important those ingredients, flavors, smells and recipes are to who I am. The books are falling apart but the "food memories" of my childhood are like yesterday. Last night, she asked "do you remember the David Eyre pancakes". Huh, I asked? Reading over the ingredients list (and finding the Claiborne recipe from 1966 of the delicious pancake covered in sugar and lemon in her scrapbook) brought me back to when I was a child -- loved that oven baked pancake and anything lemony. Thank you so much for your new book and more importantly for opening up a wealth of recipes Mom (and her Mom) handed down to me (mostly NY Times recipes I'll add, mostly Claiborne, Beard). From, a fellow food writer (www.lightheartedlocavore...), and fan of yours, Lexi Van de Walle....

Tad_and_amanda_in_the_kitchen

almost 4 years ago Amanda Hesser

Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.

Lexi, thank you so much for your note! It's amazing how many people loved that pancake. Hope you'll find some new favorites in the book. (And if you do, let me know!). - A

Claire

almost 4 years ago midnitechef

This looks like a great campfire treat!

Tad_and_amanda_in_the_kitchen

almost 4 years ago Amanda Hesser

Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.

Indeed.

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almost 4 years ago creamtea

This is what I make most frequently for Sunday mornings. We call it "Fluffy Cake." Sometimes I allow the butter to brown a little before adding the batter; it's very flavorful that way. Sometimes I use the juice of a lime instead of lemon, and that's quite good too. Sometimes I throw in fresh or frozen blueberries and bake longer. I use an extra egg, equal parts (3/4 c.) milk and flour, and a little vanilla. Sometimes I double the recipe and bake it in a 9x13 pyrex pan for company.

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almost 4 years ago SusinHB

I LOVE this - a great standby when no one in the family can decide on dinner. I first heard this called "David Iris" pancake by a friend who gave me the recipe. I also know the recipe by the name "Dutch Baby", but have no idea where this term came from. I love freshly grated nutmeg along with powdered sugar atop the finished pancake.

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almost 4 years ago nanasue

My father made this every Sunday for years..until he gave me the chore of making it for him...I will never forget this pancake. I will always make the association...in the fall we would add thinly sliced apples and spices to give the pancake a lift....

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almost 4 years ago PattyMac

It's fun to be reminded of this terrific breakfast treat again. My mom always made Dutch Babies for special occasion breakfasts (1950's Seattle). Hers were individual pancakes made in pie plates, which meant that we ate breakfast in stages those days - at some point I realized that a bigger cast iron skillet is a lot more practical (but every once in a while I still get out the pie plates). Our family version of Dutch Baby history is that they were "invented" by Victor Manca who ran Manca's Cafe in Seattle. Yorkshire pudding is a savory cousin of Dutch Babies - another of my favorite childhood foody memories!

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almost 4 years ago NoniS

This was our favorite "go to" Sunday breakfast with our kids for years. They now have the recipe to make for theirs. We've tried the original as well as others with fruit, etc. We always go back to the original.

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almost 4 years ago kpcetal

We call this a puffy pancake, and and surprise the children with it on dreary mid-winter school mornings! Start by putting the cast iron skillet in the oven with the butter in it- that way the oven and pan get hot and the butter gets melted while you get the rest ready. Dump it in, set the timer and you still have time to help find socks!

Stringio

almost 4 years ago toonceswaldorf

We made it this morning, with maple syrup like sagegreen mentioned. Incredible textures and so easy! Reminded me of a flat popover, one of my favorite things.

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almost 4 years ago Bob Y

How good to see, through your research and new book, the name Craig Claiborn being raised again. For many of us of a certain generation, Claiborn's books were seminal - we learned to cook from them. I distinctly remember his introduction of the food processor, and within a few months you could not go to a dinner party that did not begin with home-made pate . With Julia, he changed my life.

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almost 4 years ago chrisw

German Pancake, Dutch Baby, Henry Thiele's Pancake, David Eyer's Pancake, tastes and looks wonderful by any name!!! I also know this recipe, with or without apples or w/or wo/jam from my German mother and . . . a Portland Oregon breakfast establishment whose specialty was this very extravaganza!!

Thanks so very much for the reminder . . .

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almost 4 years ago donnaweaves

There is a great version of this called "Baked German Pancake" in the Colorado Cache cookbook - page 66. I've been making it for special breakfasts ever since the cookbook came out in 1978! The accompanying recipe for "Swiss Honey Butter" is the perfect topping, although I usually just spread a good jam on top and then sprinkle with powdered sugar. Yum! I could eat two of these all by myself!

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over 3 years ago ryanm

So that's where my mom got the recipe. Colorado Cache has long been one of her standby cookbooks (I didn't know anyone else used it!), and this was often on the Sunday breakfast table. Best served with an immoderate amount of powdered sugar and lemon juice, bacon on the side.

Paul_kogan_casual

almost 4 years ago paulkog

We made this yesterday and it was incredible! This should be world's greatest brunch recipe.
And it was perfect accompanied by a plateful of bacon.

The only surprise was how "desserty" it was. I thought: throw in some fruit, and you've got "clafouti". Waddya think?

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almost 4 years ago navajodog

My 4 yo daughter said 'there is a party in my tummy.'

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almost 4 years ago thirschfeld

This was a big hit this morning at my house. It is totally a high class Elephant ears, yum. Next time I am getting out the 24 inch cast iron skillet and doubling the recipe.

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almost 4 years ago Ayelet

Amanda, Michael makes this for me almost every weekend. Or at least he used to before I went on a perpetual diet. I even wrote a piece about it for, I think, Glamour Magazine! I'm sitting her waiting for it to be 9 AM so I can wake him up and have him make it again. We forgo the Jam, by the way, and content ourselves with sugar and lemon juice. What can I say? We're purists.

Tad_and_amanda_in_the_kitchen

almost 4 years ago Amanda Hesser

Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.

How funny! I'm a purist about it, too. I like cut of acidity with all the sugar and butter.

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almost 4 years ago iuzzini

Mmm! We made these this morning! Totally delicious and puffed up perfectly for a pretty dazzling yet rustic little presentation. Loved them topped with homemade preserves. Thanks!

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almost 4 years ago lisabobd

i have made this many times. its great.

Tad_and_amanda_in_the_kitchen

almost 4 years ago Amanda Hesser

Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.

Love hearing from people who have actually made it!

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almost 4 years ago iuzzini

yum! Is it breakfast yet?

Tad_and_amanda_in_the_kitchen

almost 4 years ago Amanda Hesser

Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.

Makes a fine dessert!

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almost 4 years ago Soozll

I made a variation of this for the first time last year as a dessert. I hadn't heard it's history and never thought about it as a breakfast food. The one I made had the batter poured over sauteed sweetened apple slices. It was the perfect weeknight dessert, not too sweet and when shared, not too filling. I was so impressed! Now I know I have Mr Eyers to thank. Can't wait to read the new cookbook,I love recipe history and, of course, lots of recipes!

Tad_and_amanda_in_the_kitchen

almost 4 years ago Amanda Hesser

Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.

My grandmother made one with apples, too, but wasn't quite as light.

Ooh

almost 4 years ago Serene

Oh, my.

Tad_and_amanda_in_the_kitchen

almost 4 years ago Amanda Hesser

Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.

:)

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almost 4 years ago gingerroot

Yum! My family loves these with apples, and although I never knew the food history behind them, I went to high school with David Eyre's granddaughter.

Tad_and_amanda_in_the_kitchen

almost 4 years ago Amanda Hesser

Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.

Did she ever talk about this recipe being a family classic?

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almost 4 years ago Emalani

Hi! I'm David Eyre's granddaughter (one of 6); with which one did you go to highschool? It's great fun to see all these comments from folks still enjoying and attaching my dear grandfather's name to the sweet treat. When I was growing up, my dad used to tell me the recipe was a secret, passed on only from Eyre fathers to Eyre sons. But by the time my little brother was old enough to be cooking, I had already noticed and copied the recipe from the framed New York Times feature in my grandfather's kitchen.
Emma Eyre

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almost 4 years ago gingerroot

Hi Emma, I went to Punahou with you : ). Like I mentioned above, I did not know about the connection to your Grandfather, but when this was posted on Friday and I read Amanda's headnote it got me thinking...a quick FB search of friends of friends and I got to your painting website. Anyway, we enjoyed this yesterday morning and it was so good! Cheers, Jenny (Kessner) Engle

Ozoz_profile

almost 4 years ago Kitchen Butterfly

Actually, thinking about it, that would make a great loose pie bottom, topped with all the sauteed apples I've read below and dollops of creme fraiche. Wow, heaven and easy like sunday morning

Tad_and_amanda_in_the_kitchen

almost 4 years ago Amanda Hesser

Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.

Cool idea.

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almost 4 years ago Rhonda35

YUM! Great idea!

Ozoz_profile

almost 4 years ago Kitchen Butterfly

Gorgeous photos, great recipe. I will try a version of it this weekend with some ground-up maple flakes and orange dust for flavouring! I think my husband would love it, my kids would be wowed by its 'theatrical' looks and I would ignore them all.....and tuck in with a cup of creamy coffee.

Mlt_yogateau_1

almost 4 years ago mtrelaun

This has achieved "Most Requested Breakfast" status in my house (I know, there are only two of us, but still!)

Tad_and_amanda_in_the_kitchen

almost 4 years ago Amanda Hesser

Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.

Love that!

Mrs._larkin_370

almost 4 years ago mrslarkin

Mrs. Larkin is a trusted source on Baking.

sounds so yummy! I will try it! I make a similar but different recipe that I got from Cosmo years ago which incorporates sauteed apples. So so good.!!

Tad_and_amanda_in_the_kitchen

almost 4 years ago Amanda Hesser

Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.

If you make this, let me know what you think.

Mrs._larkin_370

almost 4 years ago mrslarkin

Mrs. Larkin is a trusted source on Baking.

This was dinner tonight! (with a side of strawberries.) Sconegirl liked it a lot. Sconeboy said "meh, needs chocolate chips maybe." I ran out of conf. sugar, so sprinkled a little turbinado - gave it a nice crunch. Sconeboy named it "pancake pizza." I did not use lemon since I was making it for the kids. We put butter and maple syrup on top. Pictures are deceiving, but It's really thin when you plate it. It sure is impressively poufy in the oven! I would make this again for sure. thanks, amanda!

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almost 4 years ago dymnyno

I put the same recipe called "Henry Thiele's Pancake" on food52. I got the recipe from August, the second husband of Mrs. Theile, who gave the recipe to me at their restaurant. Her first husband was a famous restauranteur and who gave it to James Beard (also from Portland) who wrote about it. I have a special pan that I cook the pancake in.

Ozoz_profile

almost 4 years ago Kitchen Butterfly

Hi dymnyo - before I rush off to buy a pan, please can you tell me what yours looks like?

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almost 4 years ago dymnyno

My pancake pan looks like a shallow wok. ( I bought it about 30 years ago when I lived in Portland, OR) A large shallow cast iron pan works well too.

Tad_and_amanda_in_the_kitchen

almost 4 years ago Amanda Hesser

Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.

Very cool!

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almost 4 years ago cbear1984

Love it! I'm in my mid-20's, but this is my grandmother's breakfast specialty. I'm not sure if she got it from the NYT mag or not. When I saw it posted a number of years ago, I kind of squealed.

Tad_and_amanda_in_the_kitchen

almost 4 years ago Amanda Hesser

Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.

How great -- now you can make it, too!

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almost 4 years ago peanutbutteryum

I love these things.. I know them as a Dutch Baby. I go with the lemon juice and powder sugar, it creates such a great sweet past like icing. Also, during the summer berries make an appearance.

Tad_and_amanda_in_the_kitchen

almost 4 years ago Amanda Hesser

Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.

Nice.

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almost 4 years ago Sagegreen

Thanks for this recipe and the food writer history. Honolulu! There is one maple sugar house out in the foothills of western Massachusetts that serves this up on their breakfast menu, but only during the short maple season, the only time they are open. Blasphemy, perhaps, for a dyed in the wool New Englander to admit, I far prefer lemon to maple syrup.

Tad_and_amanda_in_the_kitchen

almost 4 years ago Amanda Hesser

Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.

We won't tell anyone.

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almost 4 years ago aargersi

Abbie is a trusted source on General Cooking.

ME TOO! With butternut butter which I seem to have an excess of :-)

Tad_and_amanda_in_the_kitchen

almost 4 years ago Amanda Hesser

Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.

Sounds great!

Ry_400

almost 4 years ago melissav

Totally know what I'm having for breakfast tomorrow. With a side of bacon, of course!

Tad_and_amanda_in_the_kitchen

almost 4 years ago Amanda Hesser

Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.

Good idea.