Char, Fast and Slow

- Merrill

Recently, we've been trying to eat more fish in my house. One day I was at the market looking for wild salmon and discovered they were out of it. Although I had never cooked with it before, I bought some arctic char at the fishmonger's recommendation. That night, I improvised with a few things I had in the fridge, and the resulting recipe is one I've repeated many times since. It's simple and quick, but it never fails to please.

Keeping the skin on, you coat the fish in a lemon herb mayonnaise and then cook it, skin up, at a very low temperature (250°) for 15 to 20 minutes. Then, you flip it over and broil it quickly to brown the top. The gentle cooking keeps the fish really tender and prevents it from drying out, and the broiler gives you the added benefit of some caramelization -- it's the best of both worlds. You can make this recipe with salmon, but char is a fish you should get to know if you don't already. Not only does it have a mild, rich flavor, but it's also an eco-friendly choice.

Arctic Char with Lemon Herb Mayonnaise, Cooked Both Fast and Slow

Serves 2

• 3 tablespoons mayonnaise
• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh herbs (e.g. parsley, tarragon, dill)
• zest of 1 small lemon
• 1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
• salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 pound arctic char (or salmon) fillet, skin on, cut into 2 equal portions