Sunday Dinners

Update Your Kebabs (+ 8 Tips for Cooking them Right)

By • July 16, 2013 • 21 Comments

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Sunday Dinners comes to us from our own chef/photojournalist/farmer/father figure Tom Hirschfeld, featuring his stunning photography and Indiana farmhouse family meals.

Today: Kebabs have come a long way since their 1970s heyday. Tom shares a recipe to bring kebabs into the 21st century, plus 8 tips for getting them right. 

Inside the house a Frank Sinatra record blares loudly from the phonograph, a big stereophonic console meant to look like a fancy sideboard. The family room windows of the atomic ranch-style house are open wide. The music makes its way through the open windows to the patio, soft enough to be background music for the adults socializing on the small concrete patio.  

There are tall, slender glass pitchers of Tom Collins set on a picnic table bar next to a faux gold ice bucket, highball glasses, and an assortment of potluck appetizers. The parents sip cocktails and have lively chats. Their laughter can be heard four houses down at the babysitter's, where all the children are being housed for the evening. Tiki torches release black citronella smoke meant to keep mosquitoes at bay, and in the belly of the kettle-shaped grill the coals glow the color of the suburban sunset.  

To the side of the grill sits a platter of kebabs on a TV tray. Cubes of beef have been skewered with chunks of onion, green peppers, cherry tomatoes, and button mushrooms, everything integrated in an orderly fashion. Kebabs were created to help suburbanites feel comfortable with unknown foods.  

Along with burgers and hot dogs, this style of kebab, while not perfect, ushered in the patio lifestyle of backyard tiki bars and charcoal grills. Paired with a stubby-bottled Lambrusco, kebabs became the hipster food of the seventies. But like the patio parties of the time, this style of kebab was also better in theory than in practice. Either the chunks of beef were undercooked and the vegetables were perfect, or the meat was cooked perfectly and the vegetables were charred. A happy medium was hard to accomplish, especially to those unfamiliar with the grill.

As time has passed, kebabs have matured. Kebabs, much like today's suburban neighborhoods, have become multicultural, representative of many nationalities. Thought to originate in the Middle East, kebabs became a cultural export and were quickly adapted to cuisines worldwide in many incarnations and styles.

As with all new cooking ideas, kebabs have slowly evolved to be spectacular as cooks have worked with them and shared ideas. By now, I think it is safe to say meat on a stick has changed the culinary landscape for the better.

Surprisingly, American kebabs of old survive to this day. You can find them on display in the meat cases of suburban grocery stores right next to the tenderized jelly-rolled flank steak stuffed with cheddar cheese. But now, the skewers look like a display at the Ripley's Believe It or Not Museum and not like haute cuisine hot off the seventies charcoal grill.

Tom's Kebab Cooking Tips & Guidelines

1. Keep ingredients separated by type. Fill a skewer with one type of ingredient and follow suit with all the other ingredients.

2. Try to keep the ingredients cut the same size (all zucchini, lamb, or cherry tomatoes, for example). This ensures all the pieces on the skewer cook in the same amount of time.  

3. The first two guidelines allow you to both remove a skewer of zucchini or another vegetable while continuing to cook chunks of lamb or another meat until medium rare.

4. If you use wood skewers, soak them in water for at least thirty minutes before putting them on the grill.

5. Unless I am using 1/2-inch wide bamboo skewers, I always use two skewers per kebab. This insures easy turning on the grill (and it keeps the meat from spinning).

6. Kebabs should be cooked over direct hot heat and they need to be watched and turned regularly. High heat insures a caramelized exterior and a juicy interior. If the heat isn't high enough, you will end up with skewered jerky.

7. If your kebabs are browning too fast and causing flare-ups, don't be afraid to finish cooking them in a moderate 375° F oven. It's an extra step, but it beats burnt-to-a-crisp food.

8. In addition to cooking the protein or vegetables properly, the sauce or marinade is every bit as important, and maybe even more so, as the meat and vegetables. Meat on a stick is meat on a stick -- it is the clothes you dress it in that make it stand out.



Burmese-Style Wings with Lime, Cilantro, and Shallot Salsa 

Serves 4

24 chicken wings
1 cup shallots, minced or chopped in a food processor
2 red Fresno chile or other hot chile
1/4 cup cilantro, minced
1/2 cup canola oil
Lime wedges for the table
Extra cilantro

See the full recipe (and save and print it) here.

Photos by Tom Hirschfeld 

Tags: kebabs, skewers, meat on a stick, Burmese, guidelines, tips, grilling, direct heat, salsa, chicken wings

Comments (21)

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9 months ago Ashley

Any tips for cooking kebabs in the oven for us apartment dwellers?

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9 months ago Mickeyone

Forget the oven. Buy a good, heavy grill pan with a lid and grill kebabs and other things on it. There's even indoor grilling cookbooks.




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9 months ago michael.quisao

Looks excellent! What kind of grill is that? (clearly it's made for high, direct heat). I see them all of Kabul and it's how most folks grill kebab. What are they called and where's a good source for them.

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9 months ago michael.quisao

I see them all over Kabul*

Claire

9 months ago midnitechef

There are endless possibilities for meat (or veg) on a stick. Use freshly ground spices as a dry rub marinade. Or finish of chicken with marmalade and honey for smokey sweet bird on a stick.

Merrill

9 months ago Merrill Stubbs

Merrill is a co-founder of Food52.

Sounds delicious, and your tips are so helpful! Love the photos too.

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9 months ago thirschfeld

Thanks Merrill!

Stringio

9 months ago Samantha Spellman

Looks so good

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9 months ago thirschfeld

Thank you.

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9 months ago E-licious

this looks amazing! my mouth is watering just looking at the pics.
i'm curious what kind of grill that is you're using?

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9 months ago thirschfeld

I made that grill out of a stainless steel ice bin from an old salad bar. I got the idea when I was at a friends for a cook-out and the family next door, from Taiwan, was grilling out too. My buddy and I went over to talk to them and the grill they were using and made was very similar to what I recreated. Essentially it is meant for street food. High heat and quick cooking. It is great for parties because it holds a lot of kebabs.

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9 months ago E-licious

nice! resourceful and inexpensive ... i doesn't get any better. thanks for the response!

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9 months ago placidplaid

The description you are painting of the 1970s is really more like the 1960s. I was a teenager in the 70s and although some folks may have been making kebabs then they sure weren't doing it on suburban grills in the midwest. These look pretty splendid just the same.

Chris_in_oslo

9 months ago Greenstuff

Chris is a trusted source on General Cooking

Agree completely. My dad made those kebabs in the 50s and 60s but had moved on by the 70s.

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9 months ago thirschfeld

Isn't it funny how things move through the foodway. Kebabs roared through the neighborhood in which I grew up in the early 70's. They may have been there before that but I didn't remember seeing them. I remember the first time I smelled stuffed green peppers emanating from the house of the Greek family that lived on our street. It was the most exotic food smell on earth as far as I was concerned.

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9 months ago Neelam Kapadia

The recipe looks so delish! I will be uploading your link to my food blog www.crunch-on.com

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9 months ago thirschfeld

Thanks!

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9 months ago MrsWheelbarrow

Cathy is a trusted source on Pickling/Preserving.

Looks wonderful, Tom!

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9 months ago thirschfeld

Thanks Mrs.W!

Tad_and_amanda_in_the_kitchen

9 months ago Amanda Hesser

Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.

Thanks, Tom -- these look so delicious!

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9 months ago thirschfeld

You are welcome and thanks!