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Rutabagas à la Greque

By • January 9, 2014 • 16 Comments

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If you're like us, you look to the seasons for what to cook. Get to the market, and we'll show you what to do with your haul.

Today: A way to turn rutabagas into something elegant, without much effort.  

Rutabagas on Food52

Recently, it became January, and I had no idea what to do with rutabagas.

They look like hairy little aliens, a known cousin of turnips but somehow much more foreign. As far as winter doldrum vegetables go, they are the ugliest of ducklings. But pickings at the market are slim these days; those of us dedicated to eating at least somewhat seasonally must cozy up to some not-so-cozy vegetables.

When I turned to my usual resources -- old cookbooks, the Food52 hotline, Google -- for rutabaga recipes, the only solutions I found were to cover up their flavor with fat, much the way we do when we layer on puffy coats and hats during, say, a polar vortex. We end up looking like the Michelin man; our rutabagas just taste like cream and butter. 

I knew they must have some redeeming qualities, aside from an ability to be roasted and mashed into submission. And finally, just like it happens at minute 38 of every Law and Order episode, the answer appeared: ask Alice. 

Rutabagas on Food52

Alice Waters' latest cookbook, The Art of Simple Food II, is where you go when you need to know what to do with vegetables. (See also: Deborah Madison's Vegetable Literacy.) In it I found a recipe for Rutabagas à la Greque, which sounded quite fancy, considering its use of French to describe yet another European country. It also called for a few spices and herbs I was out of. But I was also out of options. So I greque-d my roots.

By simmering rutabagas in wine and vinegar and spices and aromatics, you straddle the line between poaching and pickling. The result is a plate of vinegary slices, soft but firm, spiced confidently but still actually tasting of rutabaga. It's a palatable way to eat the things without slathering them in dairy (you are encouraged to slather them in salsa verde, but let's call it a complement rather than a cloak). It's also, as Alice points out, a way to eat rutabagas cold, in a composed salad of sorts. 

Rutabagas à la Greque on Food52

So once you grow weary of pulling roasted cubes from your oven and scooping cozy mashes from your pots, make this. It's elegant but not fussy (you just boil, slice, simmer, and cool). It takes well to any flavors you throw at it. Eat it as a side, or a snack, or slipped into sandwiches. Eat it until spring finally happens again.

Rutabagas à la Greque

Adapted slightly from Alice Waters' The Art of Simple Food II

Serves 4

1 large or 2 small rutabagas (about 1 pound)
3 cups water
3/4 cup white wine vinegar
1/4 cup white wine
1 hefty pinch peppercorns
1 hefty pinch coriander seeds
1 hefty pinch mustard seeds
2 large (or 4 small) cloves of garlic, peeled and halved
2 chile pods
4 thyme sprigs
4 marjoram sprigs (or 1 pinch dried marjoram)
Salt

See the full recipe (and save and print it) here.

Photos by Eric Moran

Jump to Comments (16)

Tags: rutabagas, turnips, root vegetables, winter, alice waters, greque, vinegar, Art of Simple Food

Comments (16)

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10 months ago KtMcB

this is a fabulous alternative to this seasonal root veggie. I like that it has a lighter touch to it. Just this morning I was wondering what to do with the pomegranate that SOMEONE bought and never used when home for the holidays .....

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10 months ago lorraine bolt

please can you tell me what is a Rutabag ? never heard of them in the UK x

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10 months ago sfmiller

What yanks call a rutabaga is usually called a swede or a neep in the UK (a large yellow-fleshed turnip-like root).

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10 months ago Carey Nershi

Oooo. THIS. The first time I tried a rutabaga it was steamed and plain — as unexciting as can be — and I still fell in love with the flavor. I've been guilty of adulterating them with copious amounts of butter and cream in my own kitchen, but all that is about to change.

Me

10 months ago Kenzi Wilbur

Kenzi is the Managing Editor of Food52.

I'm not sure if I'll ever tire of cozy mashes, but thankfully now I have a sparkly new alternate for nights when I want to give my masher a rest.

France

10 months ago Catherine Lamb

Catherine is the Community Manager at Food52.

They look like dinosaur octopi!

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10 months ago Valhalla

I love me some rutabaga. My favorite dish of late is Rutabaga and Leek Chowder with crisp smoky croutons from Deborah Madison's "Vegetable Soups".

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10 months ago Marian Bull

Marian is Food52's Associate Editor.

I didn't know this book existed!! I'll have to look it up. Sounds lovely.

Sausage2

10 months ago fiveandspice

Emily is a trusted source on Scandinavian Cuisine.

I love mashed rutabagas and rutabaga gratin, but I have never tried them any other way (ie. any way that didn't involve copious amounts of cream). This looks wonderful! So excited to try it. Also, I have developed a wintertime obsession with making a simple salsa verde with pomegranate seeds mixed. I bet that would be delicious with the rutabagas.

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10 months ago Brette Warshaw

WHOA that salsa verde just blew my mind.

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10 months ago Marian Bull

Marian is Food52's Associate Editor.

What she said.

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10 months ago EmilyC

This looks amazing! This may be the first post/recipe to get me excited about rutabagas. The salsa verde idea sealed the deal.

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10 months ago Marian Bull

Marian is Food52's Associate Editor.

I'm so happy to hear it! Maybe next year rutabagas will be the new kale.

Miglore

10 months ago Kristen Miglore

Kristen is the Executive Editor of Food52

It's really very exciting. I want to half-poach half-pickle a lot more roots now (thanks Marian!).

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10 months ago EmilyC

Haha to rutabaga being the new kale! I think you've officially started rutabaga's makeover campaign (though I'm still rooting for broccoli, too!)...

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10 months ago Marian Bull

Marian is Food52's Associate Editor.

I'll start making pins + tshirts.