Romanian Creamed Chicken (Ciulama de pui)

Author Notes

I wish I could tell you what is so special about this recipe. It's essentially a chicken fricassee, common in many cultures. And yet when my grandmother pulled her big roaster brimming with this creamed chicken from the oven, people scurried to table and undid the top button of their pants as a preventative measure against the inevitable belly-stuffing that lay ahead. That's the power, I suppose, of simple comfort food shared with those we love.

Some prep notes: Toss the chicken neck and gizzards into the pot during cooking; they'll impart some great flavor, and there always seems to be at least one person in a family who considers these items tasty prizes. If there isn't one of those people in your family, fish them out before serving. In the old country, smetana, a soured heavy cream, would have given this dish extra depth, but it's just as nice with the conventional dairy called for in the recipe below (I can imagine, though, that using creme fraiche would mimic the smetana effect).

A few words of advice on consumption: First, get in there early and get yourself a leg. The legs go fast and they're the perfect excuse for picking up your dinner and getting to lick creamy gravy off your fingers. Second, always ~ and I mean always ~ reserve at least a ladle's worth of gravy for the end to mop up with some bread.

Finally, creamed chicken is traditionally served with mamaliga, the Romanian take on the cormeal porridge better known as polenta. I posted a recipe for mamaliga last weekend so figured that you've now perfected the technique and need this stew to serve alongside it. The quantity is easily increased to serve many (my grandmother used to feed it to hundreds at church dinners). —Nostrovia_ca