Mayonnaise

Gabrielle Hamilton's Grilled Cheese Sandwiches

July  9, 2014

Every week -- often with your help -- Food52's Executive Editor Kristen Miglore is unearthing recipes that are nothing short of genius.

Today: The secret to crispier, faster, better grilled cheese sandwiches.

Grilled Cheese Sandwiches

A grilled cheese sandwich is a perfect union of bread, butter, and melty cheese -- so why would you ever want to turn your back on one of its key ingredients? Especially if that ingredient is butter?

Lots of reasons, as I learned from Gabrielle Hamilton, chef and owner of Prune. Even diehard lovers of the buttery version (I am one) will find something new and valuable out of smearing their bread with mayo instead. As she says in this CHOW video, "This is the greatest cooking medium of all time for a grilled cheese sandwich."

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Mayo won't burn as easily as butter does, which -- just like that -- solves the biggest challenge of grilled cheese: how to get the insides to heat through before the outside blackens.

More: Throw a dinner party for your cheesy sandwiches (with tomato soup).

With a standard, buttered grilled cheese, you have to cook it low and slow, keep the pan covered to capture the heat, and peek compulsively to make sure it's not starting to smoke -- or involve an oven. But if you rely on mayo instead, you don't have to stress -- its smoke point is higher than butter's, so it's much less likely to turn on you.

Grilled Cheese Sandwiches

You can also have grilled cheese sooner. You don't have to wait for butter to soften, or tear or smush your bread in haste -- even downy slices of brioche or Pullman won't be damaged when you slip over them with a knifeful of mayo, which is blessedly soft at any temperature.



But these are matters of convenience and reliability; what's most important are the results, which are not like any grilled cheese that butter could make. The oil and egg in mayonnaise brown and crisp more evenly and lavishly than butter, creating a glossy crunch from edge to edge.

Grilled Cheese Sandwiches

Hamilton's recipe -- like so much of the honest, happy food she serves at her restaurant Prune -- is a comforting balance of high and low: extra-sharp cheddar spilling out of good bread, plus mayo in a jar.

She's also known to serve sardines and Triscuits on the same menu as chicken liver mousse with Cognac jelly, and to drop Knorr bouillon cubes in the vegetable soup she makes for Christmas Eve. She serves that soup with expensive Champagne -- not a bad idea here either.

Grilled Cheese Sandwiches

Gabrielle Hamilton's Grilled Cheese Sandwiches

From Gabrielle Hamilton of Prune Restaurant, via CHOW

Makes 10 sandwiches

20 (1/2-inch-thick) slices rustic bread (from about 1 1/2 loaves)
1 cup mayonnaise
1 pound shredded extra-sharp cheddar cheese

See the full recipe (and save and print it) here.

Got a genius recipe to share -- from a classic cookbook, an online source, or anywhere, really? Please send it my way (and tell me what's so smart about it) at [email protected]. Thanks to Food52er Kukharka for this one!

Photos by Mark Weinberg

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Join The Sandwich Universe co-hosts (and longtime BFFs) Molly Baz and Declan Bond as they dive deep into beloved, iconic sandwiches.

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I'm an ex-economist, lifelong-Californian who moved to New York to work in food media in 2007, before returning to the land of Dutch Crunch bread and tri-tip barbecues in 2020. Dodgy career choices aside, I can't help but apply the rational tendencies of my former life to things like: recipe tweaking, digging up obscure facts about pizza, and deciding how many pastries to put in my purse for "later."

58 Comments

Heather L. February 12, 2018
I’ve been using ghee for the past year or so on and it works perfectly. Browns nicely and is always spreadable at room temperature.
 
Nancy November 30, 2017
Only butter for me--if the ingredients are the proper temperature and the cooking is slow and steady, lovely butter is best!
 
Kerri September 28, 2017
I hope if you said "not a fan" you actually tried it. Grilling mayo on a sandwich totally changes the flavor..... :)
 
Tamara A. September 27, 2017
Mayo imparts a distinct flavor. Not a fan.
 
Jill C. October 18, 2015
I melt bacon fat in my pan and put both pieces of bread in, add the cheese and whatever, then put the two pieces together. It's better than butter or mayo in my opinion.
 
Karen May 27, 2015
Actually, our PTA made grilled cheese on sourdough with mayo for fundraisers and that was 40 years ago. Nothing new under the sun:)
 
Sally S. May 17, 2015
I also store my butter at room temperature and I heat the skillet a bit before adding the butter so it doesn't burn just waiting for the pan to get hot. Mine come out crispy outside, melty inside and delicious!
 
Judith H. May 10, 2015
Nonsense! Butter works just fine, unless you're too lazy to flip the sandwich frequently.
 
Arlene B. May 6, 2015
I've done this for years
 
Nancy J. May 5, 2015
I use mayo instead of eggs in meatballs or meatloaf.
 
Ann D. May 4, 2015
I tried mayo once........burned my sandwich right away. Did not like it at all. I'll stick with butter. I have no problem getting the cheese to melt perfectly, without burning the bread.
 
Nancy S. May 3, 2015
I discovered that mayo work better than butter when I was in college but forgot all about it. Mayo, a brick of government issue yellow cheddar and whole wheat bread… meals for a week. Thanks for the remembery. 'Jersey Girl in Portland'
 
Tina A. May 3, 2015
For me I can still get that buttery goodness by buttering my bread and then frying in a skillet with some hot olive oil in it... Super crunchy and melt in your mouth wonderfulness... :)
 
Datch May 2, 2015
"With+a+standard,+buttered+grilled+cheese,+you+have+to+cook+it+low+and+slow,+keep+the+pan+covered+to+capture+the+heat,+and+peek+compulsively+to+make+sure+it's+not+starting+to+smoke+--+or+involve+an+oven."

Hmm.++I+make+spectacular+grilled+cheese+sandwiches+using+only+butter,+cheese+and+bread+on+artisan+sourdough+bread+(if+the+reports+of+diners+can+be+trusted.)++They+come+out+looking+just+like+the+photos+in+this+article,+with+the+cheese+wonderfully+melted+and+the+outside+crisp+and+beautiful+and+delicious...and+I+have+NEVER+covered+a+pan,+used+an+oven,+peeked+compulsively,+or+even+cooked+it+particularly+low+and+slow.++

I+may+try+this+just+to+see+how+it+is,+since+so+many+people+are+raving,+but+the+premise+that+butter+is+so+problematic+is+just+so+far+from+my+experience+that+I+had+to+speak+up!
 
Datch May 2, 2015
So sorry! I have no idea why it posted like that with all the plus signs!
 
Regine February 4, 2015
I am going to try this with my wonderful, magical, genius "Cooks Illustrated Almost No-Knead Rustic Bread."
 
Mary C. February 4, 2015
I've been using mayo like this for awhile now & even the mayo haters have to admit it's pretty good! Now keep your minds open for this one...COCONUT OIL! Especially good if you add a little chutney to the cheddar or play up the flavor in other ways. Try it!
 
Karen May 27, 2015
I'm going to try this!
 
spiffypaws August 4, 2014
Have made this twice since reading....EXCELLENT!!
 
Marie W. August 2, 2014
I've never tried using mayo instead of butter, but it sounds interesting. I do like thinly sliced dill pickle in my grilled cheese though - yum!
 
April H. July 31, 2014
I haven't tried the mayo, but we store our butter at room temp so it doesn't tear the bread. My husband loves it when I make his grilled cheese with Old Bay on it, sprinkle on the butter before you put it in the pan and you get a nice crusty flavor.
 
Sweetpatata July 31, 2014
I'm willing to try this, but truly, I feel I'd be messing with perfection.
 
Dorothy B. July 29, 2014
Mayo can also be used instead of milk in scrambled eggs...very fluffy...also homemade mayo is the best.
 
rob W. July 17, 2014
grill the interior sides of the bread, flip the slices over adding the cheese and finish the exterior as you normally would.
 
Moriaelini July 14, 2014
My mom used to used miracle whip instead of mayo. I hated that too. Makes the cheese all slidey in the sandwich and there is no melted cheese/bread symbiosis. *huff* :)
 
catalinalacruz July 14, 2014
Was the cheese "all slidey" because your mom put the miracle whip on the inside of the sandwich? Grilled cheese sandwiches usually have butter spread on the outside of the sandwich, not the inside. Try it with the mayo on the outside surface (replacing the butter), and you will be pleasantly surprised. Great "cheese/bread symbiosis" that way, too.
 
Bevi July 14, 2014
My dad made grilled cheese sandwiches this way for our hotel guests, some 60 years ago. He would serve them with fresh tomatoes from the farm up the road from us, and his own dill pickles. No wear, no tear on the bread.
 
Lynn July 14, 2014
Started doing this not long ago and it really is delicious. Once you spread on the mayo, sprinkle with a little grated parmesan and cracked black pepper.
 
KateMac July 14, 2014
This is how my mom taught me when I was little and I've never even tried making grilled sammies with butter. Mayo is definitely the way to go, although I've always gotten the sideways glances when cooking it for other people. I don't care, I love it! This summer, it's been lots of tomato and cheese grills for snacks.
 
Tonaka July 10, 2014
Done this my whole life! Thx mom:)
 
phip July 10, 2014
Good Idea.
My Italian husband does not like butter all that well and finds grilled cheese an inferior cousin to his smashed panini. Which I also love. We agree to disagree about certain things but as I am the one who prepares the meals I have taken to making the damn things without any fat what so ever and though not as deliciously decadent as a good grilled cheese it is always good. Even without the smashing. The thing with the smashing/pressing is that it does squeeze some of the fat from the cheese (butter fat Caro) into the grilling bread. Good, with this version I'll use the olive oil mayonnaise that I make for special occasion grilled cheese sandwiches.

N.B. On another note about alternative fillings. Spinach, zucchini, or asparagus mashed into a good ricotta and grated cheddar, salt, pepper and a hint of nutmeg make really a delicious filler for a not so basic gilled cheese.
 
sneha July 10, 2014
Clarified butter also works well. It doesn't burn as easily as the sticks, if you prefer not to use mayo. But I can't wait to try it out this way!
 
miznic July 9, 2014
I would like to second/third/fourth, etc - the idea of using mayo in place of butter. Have converted several family members with that. So yummy!
 
Kerri July 9, 2014
I found a great mustard for the inside, Koops Arizona Heat. It's a little sweet with a kick. I've used it with a Swiss Lorraine griller and a Muenster griller. I like to use heavier breads like rye or a heartier wheat grain. Melty goodness all around!
 
Lisa July 9, 2014
Is just plain cheddar the best cheese for this? With all the melty goodness out there, is there no better choice/combination?
 
amysarah July 9, 2014
I think there are lots of great cheeses for grilled cheese - but I wouldn't knock a really good quality cheddar. Also, various combos of Fontina, Gruyere or Swiss, Monterey Jack, Muenster, Asiago....in addition to Cheddar. For me, it usually just depends on what odds & ends of cheese I have on hand.
 
W D. July 9, 2014
I have to admit, I've been cheating on making my grilled cheese for years, but I cheat by first dumping the cheese directly into the pan and frying it. Then once it's a big melted mess, the cheese slides right out and I sandwich it between the bread, which goes right back into the frying pan (now well oiled with cheese grease) and cook until the cheese if fully soaked into the bread and the bread is nice and toasty.
 
Lainie July 9, 2014
You are decadent.
 
AntoniaJames July 10, 2014
Excellent idea, W D Arnold. Definitely going to try that, next time I make grilled cheese.
 
Sweetpatata July 31, 2014
A lovely kind of decadent, though.(yummy!)
 
Cynthia C. February 2, 2015
This is utter genius, W Dreiske Arnold.
 
Moriaelini July 9, 2014
Much as I like mayo for some things, I am firmly anti-mayo (or *shudder* miracle whip) on a grilled cheese. I feel the cheese and bread must reach a kind of symbiosis and mayo prevents this. Now a little thinly sliced onion, tomato or bacon is perfectly acceptable. :)
 
Moriaelini July 9, 2014
I forgot to add that I like to use flavored butter to cook mine in sometimes. Garlic & herb butter crust on the outside of a grilled cheese and tomato is delicious. I will even make lightly toasted garlic toast, then add tomato slices and top with cheese. Broil for a couple minutes for a lovely open faced sandwich.
 
Jenny C. January 15, 2017
The mayo doesn't go IN the sandwich! It goes on the OUTSIDE of the bread, and does not interfere in any way with the "cheese-bread symbiosis."
 
paulmcconnell July 9, 2014
Mayonnaise is an evil condiment. I hate it in and/or on anything. I'll stick w/ unsalted butter .
 
catalinalacruz July 14, 2014
Homemade mayonnaise is a heavenly condiment. I do share your sentiments about store-bought mayo, but homemade mayo is a different spread altogether. It's so easy to make in a blender, food processor, or with an immersion blender. And it does make a divine grilled cheese sandwich.
 
blmcmp July 9, 2014
I never thought of this - I think it is genius. Thank you for sharing! And I like the idea from other readers of trying flavored mayos.
 
DragonFly July 9, 2014
Nothing more comforting than a good cheesy, I put a little chipotle mayo on mine, yum!
 
catalinalacruz July 9, 2014
I've been smearing my grilled cheese sandwiches with homemade mayo for years -- it never occurred to me that this was something worthy of a write-up. :)
When it comes off the stove, slip in a few thin slices of tomato and roasted, peeled poblano chile to up the ante.
 
susielou July 9, 2014
Who doesn't love grilled cheese? This recipe sounds wonderful, and I'll try it with the mayo. When I make grilled cheese sandwiches, I use a combination of olive oil and butter; when the butter's melted I put bread slices in the pan and brown one side a little. I remove them and put cheese on one browned side and cover it with the other slice, browned side down. I place the sandwich in the pan (sometimes with a weight) and cook slowly on both sides. The result: lovely melted cheese and crispy bread.
 
Midge July 9, 2014
I love it! Can't wait to try it. And the soup!
 
mrslarkin July 9, 2014
ohmygoodness. Imagine this with flavored mayo, like sriracha, or garlic, or herbs? this is a must-try for sure.
 
john P. July 9, 2014
butter is better- and no tearing problem if you keep butter out of the fridge,as it should be. Nevertheless, a chef friend actually told me about this at the weekend so i am feeling quite of-the-moment now.
 
Kerri July 9, 2014
My friend taught me this over 20 years ago.... I have never used butter since! I always get rave reviews on my grilled cheeses. I also spread a little specialty mustard on the inside of the bread to take it up a notch..... YUM!!!
 
qktiles July 9, 2014
We always used mayo for grilling bread & burger rolls in a restaurant I worked at many years ago....think it was cheaper than butter! Homemade mayo is definitely the way to go here.
 
EmilyC July 9, 2014
I know what I'm making for dinner tonight!
 
amysarah July 9, 2014
Makes me smile - my Midwestern MIL (not known for her cooking) made grilled cheese like this (but with Kraft singles, of course!) I just attributed it to her mayo as essential ingredient in every recipe approach - but maybe she was actually a kitchen sage after all! I kid. It really is a good idea. (Another way to avoid burning before melting is frying in ghee, btw.)
 
PRST July 9, 2014
Genius for sure!