Everyday Cooking

Jamie Oliver's Chicken in Milk

January 14, 2015

Every week -- often with your help -- Food52's Executive Editor Kristen Miglore is unearthing recipes that are nothing short of genius.

Today: A one-pot technique for the most tender roast chicken, with the most strangely appealing sauce.

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A chicken and a pint of milk in every pot! I admit it sounds a little off, like trying to cook by Mad Libs, but we should consider making it our new rallying cry for 2015.

The pairing is the basis of a famously simple technique from Jamie Oliver: He cooks a whole chicken slowly in milk, which results in a messy, meaty, caramel pile of chicken that's had the resistance simmered straight out of it. It will make you stop talking and tear in, however unpolished it may look. The Kitchn's Executive Editor Faith Durand called it the best chicken recipe of all time. I'm inclined to agree.

To make it yourself, you do little more than brown a whole chicken in a pot and then dump in five other things: milk, sage, cinnamon, lemon zest, and garlic. You will dirty approximately one pot, one peeler, one measuring cup, and one pair of tongs. The first part takes some mildly awkward maneuvering with the tongs, and the skin may tear in the process, but just bear in mind how rustic this thing is going to be by the end and don't stress. 

 

 

Baste only when you remember as it cooks down in the oven for an hour and a half -- it's a good excuse to spy on what it's doing and get better access to its uplifting smells. By the end, "the lemon zest will sort of split the milk, making a sauce which is absolutely fantastic," as Oliver writes in the recipe -- which is a charming way of saying the sauce will break, or curdle, without apology. This is good.

The word "curdled" is all mixed up in our heads -- it's what happens when milk goes off, yes, or when you're meant to scald milk and it suddenly turns into a clotted mess. But intentional curdling is also what's at work when you add lemon or vinegar to milk (or whey) to make fresh cheeses like ricotta or paneer. And it's what happens here, on purpose, all around your chicken. (Oliver isn't the least bit afraid of curds -- you might recall how lemon juice, olive oil, and cottage cheese swirl together in his oddly beautiful dressing for beet salad.)

  

What this does for the chicken is one thing: Braising tends to make meat more tender, especially the sort with taut joints and connective tissues that will melt under low, sustained heat. And braising in milk does so in an especially gentle, almost caressing way. "The lactic acid present in milk tenderizes the meat, making it juicy and sweet," Emiko Davies explained in her excellent article on the Emilia-Romagnan technique of braising pork in milk, made famous by Marcella Hazan.

But beyond this technical stroke of brilliance is one of artistry: Have you ever had sage, cinnamon, lemon zest, and garlic together in anything? (Google says: doubtful.) Is there any cuisine in the world where these flavors are routine, or just in the mind of Jamie Oliver? The cleansing brightness of lemon, the foresty thump of sage, the spicy heat of cinnamon and sharper edge of garlic are all dominating presences that, added carelessly, can take over. But here, defying their pushy natures, they keep each other in check and together make a sauce that seems to have a restorative, chakra-aligning sort of power.

More: Same technique, with a spiced coffee and orange brine.

Some of you will not want to listen, and will want the sauce to be smooth and refined. You can blend it, but frankly, scraping it all up to do so is a chore. Or, according to Cook's Illustrated, you can add a few tablespoons of fat to keep the sauce from curdling: "The fat molecules ... surround the casein clusters, preventing them from bonding," they say (which is why cream doesn't seize up the way milk does). But the added fat is unnecessary and, as most people will tell you, the curds are the best part, and the split sauce is actually the point. 

Serve the chicken with a starch that can benefit from a flavorful sauce -- mashed potatoes or grains or, simply, bread. A side of something green will straighten up your animal posture and brighten the plate. Spend a little time with this recipe and you'll be looking for more sauces to split, more ways to make chicken fall to pieces -- and you're in luck, because I have another one coming for you in a few weeks.

Jamie Oliver's Chicken in Milk

Adapted slightly from Happy Days with the Naked Chef (Hachette Books, 2002)

Serves 4

One 3-pound (1 1/2-kilogram) organic chicken
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 ounces (1 stick or 115 grams) butter or olive oil
1/2 cinnamon stick
1 good handful fresh sage, leaves picked
Zest of 2 lemons, peeled in thick strips with a peeler
10 garlic cloves, skins left on
1 pint (565 milliliters) milk

See the full recipe (and save and print it) here.

Got a genius recipe to share -- from a classic cookbook, an online source, or anywhere, really? Please send it my way (and tell me what's so smart about it) at [email protected]. Thanks to Rona Moser for this one!

Photos by Bobbi Lin

 

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See what other Food52 readers are saying.

  • Monte Mathews
    Monte Mathews
  • Gardener-cook
    Gardener-cook
  • Ann
    Ann
  • Monika
    Monika
  • Jenny James
    Jenny James
I'm an ex-economist, lifelong-Californian who moved to New York to work in food media in 2007, before returning to the land of Dutch Crunch bread and tri-tip barbecues in 2020. Dodgy career choices aside, I can't help but apply the rational tendencies of my former life to things like: recipe tweaking, digging up obscure facts about pizza, and deciding how many pastries to put in my purse for "later."

82 Comments

Monte M. April 26, 2017
I wrote extensively about how I loathed this recipe and how much better one by Richard Olney is. It is very much the same idea only a far better execution than Mr. Oliver's. If you'd like to see it, here's the link...http://www.chewingthefat.us.com/2015/04/a-tale-of-two-chickens-jamie-olivers.html
 
Gardener-cook April 26, 2017
I am a fan of the genius recipes, but not this one. The bland curdled sauce was not "strangely appealing" but just strange. There are so many better things to do with a chicken.
 
Ann April 25, 2017
I totally agree with Monika. This recipe is a huge disappointment, especially after all the hype. I found the flavors completely lackluster. I simply don't get the appeal.
 
Monika April 25, 2017
Firstly, it is not Jamie Oliver's recipe -- it is in a River Café cookbook -- he got it from Ruth Rogers and Rose Gray recipe when working at their River Café. It is a chicken version of the classic North Italian pork dish, Arrosto Di Maiale al Latte. I have tried making it several times over the years, but it never seems to impress. It turns out bland and ho-hum. With all the great reviews out there, I have always thought there must be something I am missing, something I am not doing right, but no. Maybe it works better with the original pork? There are so many more amazing chicken recipes that my family wants to eat instead -- Laurie Colwin's roast mustard chicken pieces (the best "fried" chicken ever!). Or chicken in Riesling. Or chicken with green olives and preserved lemons.
 
Gardener-cook April 26, 2017
I tried the Marcella Hazan version with pork, and it was just as uninteresting as the chicken.
 
Jenny J. April 21, 2016
I was excited to try this and followed it to the letter but the whole dish tasted like hand lotion. Just not to my taste, the whole combo of sage, lemon and cinnamon just grossed me out. I'm sure a sub of coconut milk would have helped some.
 
Vicki P. April 14, 2016
The good news is that the chicken was moist. I roasted it the first 45 min. covered based on my reading. The chicken had the gentle taste of garlic, cinnamon, and herbs. I couldn't taste the lemon. I find the look of the separated milk curd unappetizing so removed it to the extent possible. I strained the sauce twice to remove herbs and curd. I added a cup of sliced crimini mushrooms to the sauce and poached them until tender. It turned out to be a good sauce for the chicken. When I browned the chicken I used half olive oil and half butter. I used 2.5 cups of whole milk. The recipe is very easy to throw together and my friends all liked the finished product.
 
Karla February 28, 2016
Can this be made with a Perdue Oven stuffer roaster? or should I use a whole frying chicken? Has anyone made this with split parts of a chicken? ie, leg or breast quarters?
 
Monte M. February 28, 2016
I implore you to read this before you start this recipe...http://www.chewingthefat.us.com/2015/04/a-tale-of-two-chickens-jamie-olivers.html
 
Lynette M. January 4, 2016
Could you do this in a pressure cooker?
 
Monte M. January 4, 2016
I wouldn't cook it at all...I think it's particularly awful. This is especially true when I compared it to a very similar recipe from Richard Olney...here's a link to that one....http://www.chewingthefat.us.com/2016/01/chicken-breasts-with-tomatoes-and.html
 
Julie-Anne April 26, 2017
Haha! With the NY Times article the other day, I guess this is getting more comments. Came back to read them and checked out your blog entry. I do not think you're crazy for not liking it. I've made it 3 times now and the most recent time was more "eh" than the first two times, which somehow were tastier. I still like it, but agree it's not the "greatest chicken ever" and I can totally see how people would find it unappealing. Look forward to trying the Olney recipe!
 
Jonathan W. November 4, 2015
My mother made this recipe about 30 years ago but there was one difference instead of cinnamon she used Madagascan green peppers and it's dry cousin black pepper.
 
pidgeon92 October 7, 2015
I've been making this recipe for years, and just happen to have a chicken defrosting on this counter to make this very meal tonight. I've found that I need a bit more milk, so I use 12oz. I grate the lemon zest rather than use big strips, and then a slice the lemons and stuff a few sliced in the chicken, and leave the rest floating the in milk. I throw in all the cloves from the garlic bulb, and often toss in small potatoes and carrots to round out the meal.
 
Eva V. August 26, 2015
Although a fan of this recipe I much prefer The Kitchn's Asian twist on it: the milk is substituted by coconut milk and the herbs are also more Asiany (you know what I mean ;0)) http://www.thekitchn.com/recipe-coconut-milk-chicken-98547. Instead of the potatoes called for in the recipe I use pumpkin. It's fragrant, comforting and delicious.
 
Alla September 21, 2015
Totally agree! I tried both and much prefer the coconut milk variation.
 
zaini April 8, 2015
I wonder if this will appeal to an Indian.
 
Susan B. April 8, 2015
Can you use a lactose free substitute for the milk, or is it the sugar in the milk which is necessary?
 
Eva V. August 26, 2015
You need the lactic acid to soften the meat, but adding some other form of acid (lemon for example) will do the trick too.
 
lacrema February 16, 2015
I just made this the other day-- AMAZING! I added more garlic than called for and will probably do so again. We spread the cloves and the curds on sourdough baguette and served with lemon asparagus. SO easy and SO delicious!
 
Maryann January 28, 2015
I have been looking at this recipe for a while but for some reason was a little reluctant to try it. Stuck inside on a snowbound afternoon, I decided to try it. Because I had a 5.5 pound chicken, I upped the liquid content (I used 2 Cups of 2% Milk and 1 Cup of Half and Half) and added 5 more garlic cloves. I also added some thyme sprigs. The chicken came out great but the sauce did not look very appetizing. So I used my immersion blender and that took care of the eye appeal (or lack thereof). Right before serving, I added a couple of squeezes of fresh lemon juice and a tablespoon or so of sherry. A great and easy dinner!
 
kim January 27, 2015
Kris, upload the image to www.imgur.com, and then post the link here. Then we can see how it came out.
 
Kris S. January 27, 2015
I made the Chicken last night I used butter. Other than that I followed to a T. I would use twice as much sage next time. The meal was great I used the sauce on steamed Aspg. it blended very well. Curds looked a little odd but the taste was fine. I would post a picture but I don't think I can ?! Looked like a cookbook photo !! Oh yea the smell is heavenly !! I made mashed garlic dill potatoes as well.
 
Monte M. January 24, 2015
Dear Ann, I can't thank you enough for posting exactly how I felt after cooking this. And as you can see, I was a minority of one until you appeared. What do you think we did wrong?
 
nancy E. January 24, 2015
Not every pallet is the same. We don't all have to like something. I do not like truffles and green peppers. I can't stand kale. That's alright. I'm sure you made the recipe as it should be, it just was not to your liking.
 
nancy E. January 24, 2015
palate!!!!!
 
Ann January 24, 2015
Hi Monte,
Like you, I made the recipe exactly as written, which I almost always do the first time I make anything. I think partly it was the huge hype surrounding this recipe. The accolades were pouring in, so naturally I was expecting the moon. What I got was, IMHO, an okay dish. Will I make it again? Probably not. Do I regret making it? No. We are it and shared cold leftover chicken--NOT the sauce--the next day for lunch. Nothing on the bird wasted. As Nancy so correctly stated, just not suited to our palates.
 
Ann January 24, 2015
Ate it---sorry
 
Monte M. January 24, 2015
Ann, I think where we struggle here is that we start our adventure primed for "recipes that are nothing short of genius." Which is promised in the introduction and followed up with "The Kitchn's Executive Editor Faith Durand called it the best chicken recipe of all time." This is clearly one of the biggest cases of "Chacun a son gout" in history!
 
Ann January 24, 2015
I thought this recipe was just okay. Not Genius in my books. The chicken itself was, undeniably, tender and moist, but the sauce wasn't outstanding. I didn't find it bitter but I did think it was very unappealing looking. I know I'm in the minority here, but this just didn't do it for me. I'm a big Jamie Oliver fan, but not this time. Sorry.
 
Jane H. January 22, 2015
This was a fantastic recipe. The chicken was just absolutely delicious. The only change I made was that I browned the chicken in 1/2 stick of butter. Oh, I did use a whole cinnamon stick (about 3" long). (A note on the lemon zest...you must use a zester...pith of the lemon peel is bitter.)
 
Monte M. January 20, 2015
I thought this was the biggest disappointment I have cooked in a long time. Certainly disappointing that it came from Jamie Oliver for whom I have nothing but respect. The sauce was inedible--nasty bitter taste and ruined, not only the chicken but the mashed potatoes I served it on. I went back and looked and followed the recipe precisely--no substitutions, no variations of any kind. I would love to know what I am missing here? I will say that the chicken itself was remarkably tender.
 
nancy E. January 20, 2015
I do not know where you went wrong but you went wrong. There is nothing bitter or nasty about this dish. Perhaps you burnt the oil or butter you seared the chicken in.
 
Julie-Anne January 20, 2015
What a bummer. I had a recipe go wrong last week and it's never fun when you've invested time and/or effort into producing something that just isn't any good. I am not sure what might be causing the bitterness. I'd first go to ingredients (was the oil rancid, was the lemon zest crazy bitter or "off", what about the sage?) and if not ingredients, then maybe something went wrong with the browning??? It really was a lovely recipe over here.
 
Monte M. January 21, 2015
Thanks Nancy and Julie-Anne for taking the time to comment. The butter foamed and the chicken was beautifully browned. I now think that the pith of the lemon created this incredibly bitter taste. I think I should have used a smaller peeler or even a zester for the lemon rind. The good news is I was able to use the leftover chicken in some tostados I made and they turned out very well. Again, thanks for taking the time to write.
 
Eva V. August 26, 2015
It could also have been the garlic Monte, it can sometimes turn bitter on you if you're not careful. Particularly older garlic.
 
Julie-Anne January 20, 2015
Loved this recipe! I've made pork braised in milk many times but actually preferred this chicken version. The chicken was so moist. I used half butter/half oil and took the fat after browning and poured it in a pan for oven roasting carrots in the last half hour or so of roasting with a bit of salt. Delicious!
 
Sharon January 18, 2015
Has anyone substituted coconut milk for whole milk?
 
MaureenOnTheCape February 21, 2015
I would also like to know about non-dairy substitutes like almond or coconut milk. They surely won't curdle so I suspect only cow milk will do. Help anyone?
 
janet V. January 18, 2015
Really good, but did not rock my world. I cooked my bird breast side down so the breast meat was very tender. Wasn't a fan of the curds, so I strained the sauce. If I make this again I would also reduce the sauce. Couldn't really taste the cinnamon, may add more next time. Also, I used one readers suggestion to zest the lemon then add the remainder thinly sliced, loved that. Also, it was not difficult to brown the bird provided you use Le Crueset and plenty of oil and/or butter.
 
Ann M. January 17, 2015
This is a delicious go-to JO recipe for me. Very little prep, BUT beware! It requires 1.5 hrs over time!
 
Jay T. January 16, 2015
I am lactose intolerant. Can I use Lactaid 2% milk as I don't like almond milk?
 
Erin S. January 19, 2015
Try coconut milk.
 
ME January 15, 2015
This chicken is absolutely delicious! I don't know what else I can say. Very, very satisfying with minimal effort
 
Susie M. January 15, 2015
Has anyone done this with a duck? I'm thinking this would be really wonderful and the fat from a duck is actually healthier and richer than that of chicken.
 
Moshee January 15, 2015
I've made it a few times. Delicious but your house will smell of milk. I think I'll try coconut milk next time.
 
Denise January 15, 2015
Could this be done sous vide? Anybody tried it?
 
Ruth G. January 14, 2015
alternative to lemon zest for citrus-allergic people?
 
Lemons &. January 14, 2015
Ruth, maybe you can look into sumac? It's a Middle-Eastern bush that's used as a spice with a tart/lemony flavor. I use it a lot it roast chicken. It might work here and you should be able to order it on Amazon.
 
Tim H. January 14, 2015
Wondering if this would work as well with a pork roast, (I don't tolerate chicken fats for some odd reason these days). Seems like the fat may be a ket for this to interact with the curdled milk...
 
[email protected] January 14, 2015
I think it would be wonderful with a pork roast!
 
Windischgirl January 19, 2015
My cousin emailed me this recipe today. I countered with Marcella Hazan's original, which does use a pork loin. I made a version with pork shoulder on Saturday, seasoning the milk with bay leaf and fresh rosemary. I also add in a couple of diced carrots and celery stalks (in lieu of onions, which dislike me)...that's a riff on a Rick Rodgers slow cooker recipe. Go for it, Tim!
 
Jeanne January 14, 2015
My mother called her similar recipe "Dunkin' Chicken" because you used bread to get every bit of the sauce! Yum!
 
Ahuva January 14, 2015
Does anyone know/think this would work with soy milk? I need a non-dairy option.
 
kitchenfish January 14, 2015
Ditto :( lactic acid in soy? Hmm. What else could work? My partner is dairy free. This recipe looks so damn good I might have to just cook it and not tell him. That? Oh no that's not dairy. It's er... That's.... Ummm... Potato?
 
kitchenfish January 14, 2015
Ah, someone said coconut milk.
 
kara January 14, 2015
Any thoughts on how to adapt for the slow cooker and with a cornish hen?
 
Windischgirl January 19, 2015
Sure! Cook on low for probably about 4 hrs, depending on the size of your hen.
 
olivia.k January 14, 2015
I think I will only use chicken thighs. More chicken breast for everyone else! Wondering, though, if this means adjusting the cooking time?
 
blmcmp January 14, 2015
...A side of something green will straighten up your animal posture and brighten the plate... Love this! :)
 
A M. January 14, 2015
For someone cooking kosher who cannot put chicken in milk, will an alternative like almond milk work also?
 
olivia.k January 14, 2015
Someone earlier mentioned they enjoyed it with coconut milk.
 
pidgeon92 January 14, 2015
I have been making this recipe for years, and it is my favorite way to cook chicken. Last year I managed to burn my hand rather severely when turning the chicken over in the pot while browning it. It slipped off the tongs, and the oil/butter flew out of the pot. Please use oven mitts when turning your chicken, and keep your face away from the pot.
 
AnneonanAdventure January 14, 2015
Terrible that this happened to you. A great warning to share. Thanks.
 
[email protected] January 14, 2015
How about Rosemary instead of sage? Love the combo of Rosemary, Garlic & Lemon
 
pidgeon92 January 14, 2015
I don't see any reason not to substitute rosemary for the sage, but do try the sage some time, it's a really great flavor in this recipe. I freeze my sage from the garden specifically so I always have some on hand when I make this chicken recipe.
 
payalgp January 14, 2015
would it be possible to make this with a whole chicken cut up in parts? or it has to be a whole chicken?
 
Stacey S. January 14, 2015
I have made this so many times, and it is DELICIOUS!!! The ingredients list sure is a strange one, but it all works.......here is my post and delicious pics.http://www.staceysnacksonline.com/2014/01/jamie-olivers-roast-chicken-braised-in.html
 
kim January 14, 2015
My husband has an intolerance to cinnamon. Can you think of anything we could as a substitute? Because this sounds Devine.
 
pidgeon92 January 14, 2015
I've never used the cinnamon, I don't think it was in the recipe that I have been using (from a cooking blog many years ago), and I have never found the taste to be lacking anything.
 
Sini |. January 14, 2015
As Cynthia said, thanks for the reminder. Need to make this for dinner soon!
 
Cynthia C. January 14, 2015
I LOVE. this recipe. LOVE. I've never made a roast chicken another way that I liked half as much. Thank you for reminding me that I need to make it again ASAP!!
 
FoodieDawn January 14, 2015
What kind of milk?
 
nancy E. January 14, 2015
organic whole milk is what I used successfully
 
pidgeon92 January 14, 2015
I use regular 2% milk. I upped the amount of milk to 12oz, for me it gives a better yield of the "sauce."
 
Frank W. January 14, 2015
actually, 1 pint of milk is 16oz.
 
nancy E. January 14, 2015
This is one of my go to recipes. Simple to make and soooooo satisfying.
 
Allyn January 14, 2015
I've made this before with coconut milk and it was still insanely delicious. Need to try the milk version soon, because I'm drooling over the memory.
 
BrooklynBridget January 14, 2015
Coconut milk! May need to try that one
 
Lori D. January 14, 2015
So amazingly delicious! I doubled the recipe and added ziti and fresh spinach to the sauce for dinner the following day. Oh so good!
 
Awads January 14, 2015
I actually made this a few weeks ago (insprired by faith durand) and liked it ok, but it was not life-altering. my husband thought it too lemony. i'd really like to give it another go, maybe using less lemon rind? i don't know what else to tweak...
 
pidgeon92 January 14, 2015
I grate the rind of a single lemon, then slice the lemon and add the slices to to chicken in the pot. I don't really notice the lemon flavor.