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61 Comments
Brian W.
August 13, 2017
I was never taught about it but used to make pasta sauce following the advice of my Roman father-in-law. I slowly incorporated it into my soups, chicken and dumplings, stuffiness etc with subtle variations. Nice to sneak extra veggies into any dish.
Kathleen E.
February 5, 2017
I make up large amounts of this in the summer with all the CSA vegetables that I get. Once finished I freeze scoops of it in cupcake pans (smear the pan with olive oil first then fill and set in the freezer.) Once frozen pop them out, wrap each one in film or aluminum foil, and drop them in a freezer ziplock. I use gallon freezer ziplocks and then I always have this necessary first step ready to go - even on a quick dinner night.
Sharon
July 13, 2016
To: Petra Liverani. Hi Petra. I was unable to reply directly to your post because there is no "reply" button/link for any posts. Go figure! Anyway, a mirepoix refers to the basic flavoring agent of onions, carrots and celery. However, it does not specify how it should be prepared, while a soffritto is always sautéed.. It derives its rich flavor from the caramelization of the selected vegetables. A mirepoix, on the other hand, does not refer to any particular cooking method, but merely to that trio of aromatic vegatables. It is typically used as the building block for clear poaching liquids (ie. poached fish) and white (veal or chicken) soup stocks, for example. If you throw those same ingredients into a sauté pan and caramelize them, they become a soffritto. Of course, the secret of good cooking is to customize these basics to enhance each dish you're preparing. The only rule is that there are no rules, unless you want everything you cook to taste the same. Mexican, Italian, North African, American South, Cuban, Caribbean, etc., all have their own unique caramelized flavor bases for their cuisines.
Petra L.
April 11, 2017
Thanks, Sharon. Interesting. I just came across your answer randomly now. Perhaps I somehow missed it before.
rich M.
July 1, 2017
you're mixing italian cooking terms with French terms. soffritto is italian. mirepoix is french.
rich M.
July 1, 2017
i.e battuto is the mirepoix equivalent. when a battuto is fried or cooled, it becomes a soffritto.
Sharon
July 1, 2017
The origin of the word sofritto is Italian, but it's the same word and meaning in Spanish - to lightly fry. In fact, the first time I ever heard it was from Spanish-speaking Cuban cooks, ions ago. But, you know, Italy, Spain, Portugal - kissin' cousins! Lots of the same words and phrases floated back and forth throughout those countries.
Katherine
May 22, 2016
Thanks, Barb. Great idea. I have retired somewhat recently, and have renewed my love and study of food. So addictive -- cooking, shopping, eating, and researching. Off I go to my cookbooks. Have a lot of classics.
Barb
May 22, 2016
Katherine, carrots and onions seem to be a staple, the third can vary depending on country. Sometimes bell pepper (or something hotter). Asian has something else, is it onion, garlic and ginger? Read a few dozen recipes for the cuisine of choice and you'll find the pattern.
I read this article hoping for something more about long term than '3 days, in oil'. I was thinking of doing all the cleaning and chopping, and then freezing large quantities, either cooked or not, to use later. I think I'll just try both ways myself and see which is more successful.
I read this article hoping for something more about long term than '3 days, in oil'. I was thinking of doing all the cleaning and chopping, and then freezing large quantities, either cooked or not, to use later. I think I'll just try both ways myself and see which is more successful.
Katherine
May 17, 2016
Well, all I know is that celery is classic in at least two flavor bases. The classic in French cuisine (which is actually used pretty generally) is celery, carrots, and onion. I love Creole and New Orleans cuisine in general. A must flavor base is celery, onion, and green pepper. The area that I am just delving into is Spanish and Mexican foods, among others that are related. Again, my question is: is there a classic mix in these areas, plus or minus celery?
Edd T.
May 17, 2016
I still don't get celery.
I never use it in any of my flavor base.
Can anyone give a very good reason for it?
I never use it in any of my flavor base.
Can anyone give a very good reason for it?
Stef_art
May 17, 2016
celery brings a savory/earthy/mineral note to the onion & carrot mix, which could be otherwise too sweet
Sharon
May 17, 2016
You're right, celery is not always called for. It works really well in Italian dishes, especially in things like bolognese sauce. It's also good in white beans. Never seen it used in developing Mexican or North African flavors. My relatives way down in Louisiana nearly always add celery along with the onions and bell peppers for their basic sauté/caramelization, but it's not a given for me because it's not a note I want in everything. Some people don't seem to understand that there is no such thing as a "definitive" soffritto. In fact, most people don't even call it that! No one in my lineage ever called it that. It's simply the basic flavoring agent, customized to whatever you happen to be cooking at the moment. Add or omit whatever you want. The addition of carrots is pretty much a European thing from what I've seen in the world. Certainly not a part of everyone's culinary heritage. Sometimes you want carrots or celery, sometimes you don't. But you ALWAYS start with onions and garlic. BTW, some folks are confusing a mirepoix (French word) with a soffritto (Spanish word). Not the same. A soffritto is specifically sautéed to develop deep flavor through varying degrees of caramelization. Not the case with a mirepoix.
Katherine
May 16, 2016
This string is absolutely interesting to me, especially since flavor is one of my cooking bugaboos. I am curious about sofritos. All over the web there seem to be strong opinions about which is more authentic or best. Any thoughts as to what constitutes a really good sofrito?
Aina L.
May 16, 2016
I have only used it classically like in ragu ill have to try it out on other things now.
Jim W.
May 15, 2016
Soffrito, sofrito, mirepoix, battuta, suppengruen, the Cajun the holy trinity of onion, celery, and sweet peppers, the list goes on and on. I enjoyed your article.
Katherine
July 4, 2015
I'd like to know more about Tarka and how it's used. Can you recommend good sources?
Ron
July 3, 2015
For Indian cooking we have what we call Tarka. This is the base of most our Indian dishes. It's a mixture of onions, garlic, ginger and spices. Usually we make it fresh for each dish, but it can be made ahead of time and used as a base.
celia Y.
July 4, 2015
can you tell us the spices you are using -basic- ? I love Indian food but I don't know much about it. Yesterday I went to an Indian store and bought some of its vegetables (don't know the names) but I am going to try to make them. But dont' know what spices I should use. Thank you for any information.
MealFit T.
June 9, 2015
Good article! Simple. We sometimes get carried away with wanting what is new and cool. The thing is, good food is cool and this is good food. Thanks
Katherine
June 8, 2015
Catherine Lamb, I started cooking when I was 8 years old. I will be 69 in October. I went to culinary school for a year and worked in the field for a short while. I have lots of cook books and read numerous magazines. I have to say every time a turn a page I learn something new. My husband and I have sought out "food adventures" throughout our marriage 47 years). One of the many blessings of cooking is that it never gets boring.
Katherine
June 8, 2015
Heatherann, went to the link you provided. I really enjoyed it and will add some of the twists and turns to my established repetoire. Imagine the joy of learning at this old age. Also, love to impart my spaghetti sauce philosophy: There are as many recipes for spaghetti sauce as there are cooks. And when you consider the regions of Italy, as well as the permutations in both traditional and contemporary Italian cooking...well I rest my case. I imagine to some degree that applies to sofrito, mirepoix, etc. That's the wonderful, organic beauty of cooking -- you never, ever know it all!
Paisley D.
June 4, 2015
Yeah, that's mirepoix, not sofrito. Sofrito has tomatillos and recao.
celia Y.
July 4, 2015
Deptends what country you are. This sofrito is used and called in Spain and other LatinAmerican countries. En others the same thing is called differently. and the word 'mirepoix' is French, in spanish -some countries- we called different, and in English depends to whom you are talking. There'r different ways to call things (the same thing) even in the USA.
cristiana
June 1, 2015
Attention to color : it should not become golden , but remain transparent . Otherwise you may feel a burning smell.
Catherine L.
June 8, 2015
Good point! I found a few different rules about how golden the mixture should get, but general wisdom is that the vegetables should be relaxed and smell awesome, but not become golden.
Sharon
July 3, 2015
I beg to differ. That depends entirely upon what flavor base you're building. Golden color equals rich, golden flavor. As the saying goes, "there's flavor in the brown." For example, the haunting beauty of Indian cuisine is built upon the deep caramelization of onions & aromatics, and the toasting of spices. Knowing how to achieve and when to use these varying degrees of coloration is paramount to becoming an excellent cook.
Lygia B.
May 31, 2015
This is universal cooking. In Brazil/Portugal, we call it refogado, and it is the way of spicing up the basic black beans, as well as just about any other dish you can think of. I recently proposed an article as a food writing assignment entitled: "Sofrito, refogado, mirepoix, holy trinity -- sauce, dish or cooking method -- the universal way of sauteeing bulbs, vegetables, herbs and spices as a first step towards culinary nirvana."
Sharon
May 31, 2015
I can't believe that this is "news" to so many people! Practically EVERY good meal starts with this basic caramelized flavoring, and it varies depending upon the region and culture. In Louisiana, for example, it usually includes bell peppers, and not everyone uses carrots, being too sweet. No matter what, garlic is always in the mix. Can't imagine storing anything like this because it should be customized to whatever cuisine you're preparing. This is as natural and basic to any good cook as breathing. I learned this at my mother's knee.
heatheranne
May 31, 2015
I know it seems silly, but for those of us who didn't grow up learning how to cook, it really is news! I did realize that every dish seem to start with sauteing some combinations of carrot, onion, celery etc., but I didn't make the connection that cuisines all used a different and particular combination to build flavour.
Michael L.
June 1, 2015
I'll join in as a 'wow, wasn't aware of this' reader. And I'll also ask, with regard to the comment "You can store the soffritto in oil for up to three days in...", how much oil?
I wouldn't imagine it's submersion, but then again, this was 'news' to me. ;)
I wouldn't imagine it's submersion, but then again, this was 'news' to me. ;)
heatheranne
June 3, 2015
Yes, it's submersion (but just submerged). At least that's what I've been taught. I prefer freezing for long-term storage.
M
May 31, 2015
I raised two sons. When I wanted them to come in front their boyhood adventures I would open the kitchen window, heat the cast iron skillet with olive oil and toss in these same ingredients including some garlic. It was a never fail, the boys would appear magically!
Katherine
May 29, 2015
Heatheranne, I would agree. followed your link. It is very cool, and I bookmarked it. I've got Cajun, Italian, and French knocked, but definitely more to add to my repetoire.
heatheranne
May 29, 2015
This was a great infographic I once found on the flavour bases of the major cuisines https://www.finedininglovers.com/blog/food-drinks/infographic-flavor-bases-world-cuisines/. While I agree that it's not important to get dogmatic about such things, it is useful, I think, to know the traditions. I wouldn't want to try and create a Mexican dish with only onion, carrot and celery as the flavour base. Once you know the basics, you can then mess with them!
Stef_art
May 29, 2015
Very useful, but from my Italian point of view I have to say that I have never met any Italian cook using fennel in a soffritto / untraditional and inauthentic.
heatheranne
May 29, 2015
Well, that's fine. I wouldn't use fennel either, as it has very distinct taste I wouldn't want in every dish. But you could and the sky wouldn't fall. "Traditional" and "authentic" are problematic concepts themselves. Cooking is very local and regional (not just in Italy); I'm sure you could find 50 different family recipes for the same dish - and all would claim that theirs is authentic. While I am interested in knowing the traditions and theory behind different cooking traditions, ultimately, as a 21st century mangiacake (basically a derogatory term for a Canadian from English descent!) cook, I only really care if something tastes good or not.
Stef_art
May 29, 2015
There is a very interesting post by victor hazan ( husband of marcella) about authenticity vs traditional here:
https://www.facebook.com/signamali/posts/10202349524330632
https://www.facebook.com/signamali/posts/10202349524330632
Kristin
May 28, 2015
Beginning cook question: when putting it in oil in the fridge-how much oil? Just enough to coat or submerge it? Same for freezing?
Stef_art
May 29, 2015
hi kristin
in my experience when one wants to preserve food in oil (in the fridge), the food should be submerged. The issue I have with this method is that when one goes and use the preserved food, it is really very oily (sometimes too oily). as for freezing soffrito, you need far less oil: you cook your soffritto long and slow with the amount of oil you want to use, when it is completely cold you can either make little cling film parcels or you can use ice trays, As for cooking the soffritto: you can also ccok it in an emulsion of a little water and a tiny quantity of oil: this makes for a lighter soffritto/you can always add a little more fat during cooking...In Italy there are more and more cooks who prefer for a lighter, more contemporary cooking: e.i. less fat/these days (ops, forgot to say that I Am Italian and a professional cook) I often cook my soffritto/or simply chopped onion and garlic in a little water. when the vegetables are done i then add some oil for some depth of flavour. I think one must find the way that suits his/her needs/palate ecc., never forgetting that there are not (most of the times) black/white rules in cooking / stefano
in my experience when one wants to preserve food in oil (in the fridge), the food should be submerged. The issue I have with this method is that when one goes and use the preserved food, it is really very oily (sometimes too oily). as for freezing soffrito, you need far less oil: you cook your soffritto long and slow with the amount of oil you want to use, when it is completely cold you can either make little cling film parcels or you can use ice trays, As for cooking the soffritto: you can also ccok it in an emulsion of a little water and a tiny quantity of oil: this makes for a lighter soffritto/you can always add a little more fat during cooking...In Italy there are more and more cooks who prefer for a lighter, more contemporary cooking: e.i. less fat/these days (ops, forgot to say that I Am Italian and a professional cook) I often cook my soffritto/or simply chopped onion and garlic in a little water. when the vegetables are done i then add some oil for some depth of flavour. I think one must find the way that suits his/her needs/palate ecc., never forgetting that there are not (most of the times) black/white rules in cooking / stefano
heatheranne
May 29, 2015
When I freeze it, I freeze some in ice cube trays - so spoon it in and then fill with oil.
Same thing when I freeze it in jars. You may think you are using a lot of oil, but when I go to cook it, I very rarely need to add more oil. And one of my batches will last me a few months. I prefer the freezing method, as I've had issues with mold when trying to preserve it in the fridge, the way my mother-in-law does.
Same thing when I freeze it in jars. You may think you are using a lot of oil, but when I go to cook it, I very rarely need to add more oil. And one of my batches will last me a few months. I prefer the freezing method, as I've had issues with mold when trying to preserve it in the fridge, the way my mother-in-law does.
Kristin
June 3, 2015
Thanks so much for the feedback! Heatheranne-thank you for the tips-that's what I'll do!
Katherine
May 28, 2015
Wow, great discussion. Who thought you could have such an erudite discussion of carrots, celery, and onions, chopped and sauteed. It just demonstrates how varied are the uses of culinary basics, and how many approaches to delicious there are. I would add that getting too dogmatic takes the joy out of cooking! As a life long cook, culinary school graduate, and professional cook turned psychologist, I have found that different takes on things can only help us grow and explore the amazingly wide world of food.
Catherine L.
June 8, 2015
Well put, Katherine! I was amazed I didn't know of this trick, though apparently it's old hat to many of the commenters here... makes me wonder what other cooking strategies are out there to be uncovered!
heatheranne
May 28, 2015
I do something similar, but learned from my Italian mother-in-law to make a mix that can then be kept in oil (if you add enough salt to preserve) or frozen (like I do, then I can control the salt content). I finely mince (well, process) carrot, onion, celery, garlic, herbs (usually basil, rosemary and parsley), and then add in some chopped tomato. I freeze it in oil in ice-cube trays, plus freeze some in oil in small jars for when I make sauce. I use oil because I am going to cook it in oil anyway. Then you saute it on low heat for quite a while. It smells heavenly! As others have noted, it's the Italian version of mirepoix.
harbinger_dc
May 28, 2015
This has been my starting point for most meals for as long as I can remember. But the idea of making enough at one time to hold it over a few days never even occurred to me. What a time saver!!
Teresa
May 27, 2015
This is mirepoix. Sofrito is different and usually includes tomatoes or peppers.
Furthermore, mirepoix is french, sofrito is spanish/latin. Neither of them are Italian. A simple wikipedia search would have shown both of those things.
Furthermore, mirepoix is french, sofrito is spanish/latin. Neither of them are Italian. A simple wikipedia search would have shown both of those things.
Yael E.
May 27, 2015
Soffritto (two fs two ts) is Italian and is different from sofrito (one f one t) which is more common in latin food. The wikipedia article for sofrito states in the head notes: "Not to be confused with Italian Soffritto, which is a kind of Mirepoix."
Catherine L.
May 27, 2015
I've found a couple different definitions of "soffritto" (Yael, you're right about the Spanish "sofrito," which is similarly a sort of base, but typically composed of different ingredients). According to my understanding, it's made up of mirepoix (the fine dice of celery, onion, and carrot), which is then cooked in fat over low temperatures. The finished product is dubbed "soffritto."
Stef_art
May 27, 2015
Good ideas here but soffriito is generally finely chopped. As one of the comments says this is mirepoix, which does not belong to italian cooking.The whole poin of soffritto is to get an almost creamy vegetable jam in the end. slow cooking is esemtial, at a very gentle heat. Some salt is added after few minutes to help the vegs relinquish their water. One could also add robust herbs like rosemar, sage,bay, thyme. It can be frozen in ice trays ( the finely chopped variety). Stefano
Katherine
May 27, 2015
I am actually very surprised that this is not common knowledge. I had to learn how to cook at my mother's knees (starting about 9 years old!) All braises, soups, etc. started with this. Well that all started about 60 years ago and I thought this was life. Oh, and I am not a purist. Gotta have garlic at some point.
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