Infographics
The Truth About Caramelizing Onions
How long does it really take to caramelize onions? We've got the photos to prove it.
"It might be the most valuable journalistic work I’ve ever done."
That's reporter Tom Scocca, who has covered presidential elections and the Supreme Court nominations, reflecting on a piece he wrote five years ago for Slate in which he snuffed out recipe writers' biggest, baddest fib: the time it takes to caramelize onions.
The article, which indicted everyone from Melissa Clark (10 minutes to become "soft and caramelized," she says!) to Madhur Jaffrey (5 minutes for a "medium-brown colour"!), resurfaced last month, when Scocca realized that the featured Google search result for "How long does it take to caramelize onions?" drew—and, to add salt to the wound, directly from his article—on the very information his entire piece had set out to expose as false: "about 5 minutes."
As long as I've been cooking, I've been reading various versions of this lie, over and over.
Tom Scocca
(Since this revelation, the Google search results have been adjusted, now pulling a more relevant quote from his original Slate article.)
On Food52, we, too, have a lot of mixed information about onion caramelization in our archives. Some recipes say it takes 45 minutes to 1 hour to caramelize diced onions, while others recommend 30 to 40 minutes for thin slices.
The inconsistency isn't surprising: Our recipes are developed in the kitchens of home cooks who are using pans, different stoves, and different types of onions—and who are judging with their eyes and ears rather than by the time on the clock.
But to see how long caramelizing onions really take—and what they look like along the way—we caramelized three pans of onions (three onions, 1 tablespoon of butter, a stainless steel pan) for 15, 30, and 60 minutes over medium-high heat. Whenever the fond (those caramelized sugars that stick to the bottom) started to build up, we deglazed with a tablespoon of water, scraped up all of the flavorful bits, and started the whole process again.
You'll see in the photo that the onion volume reduced dramatically (after 60 minutes, three onions had turned into about 1/2 cup of deeply caramelized onion shmoo); the color changed from yellowish orange to a deep auburn; and what was once-astringent and watery turned candy-sweet and butter-soft. With this method, there was no defying time (and no outsmarting patience). But then again, some cooks might consider the 30-minute pan to be caramelized to perfection (as opposed to obliteration)—and for some applications, a half-hour might be plenty of time, indeed.
Next, we tried two tricks that are supposed to speed up the process: (1) adding baking soda (read more about the science behind that here), and (2) starting with the pan covered. (Both techniques also call for a bit of added sugar in order to speed up the caramelization process.)
In the end, neither method was significantly faster than the nothing-added 60-minute technique. But the onions they yielded differed in sweetness and softness in a way that might actually be preferable to you depending on how you're putting the alliums to use.
The shortcuts:
- Baking soda + sugar: In J. Kenji López-Alt's 15-Minute Caramelized Onions, you add 1 teaspoon sugar and 1/4 teaspoon baking soda to 5 cups of finely sliced onions at the start of the cooking process. You cook over high heat, using the same fond-scraping technique "until onions are completely softened and a deep, dark brown, about 15 minutes total." It took us 40 minutes (not 15) to achieve the pan of onions in the photo above.
- Starting with the pan covered: In this technique, which we learned about from Deb Perelman, you cook the onions, covered, over very low heat for 15 minutes, then turn the heat up to medium-high, add 1/2 teaspoon of sugar, and cook, stirring frequently, for 15 to 20 minutes, until they’re a deep golden brown. It actually took us closer to 65 minutes (rather than 35) to get the onions in the pan above.
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The results:
- The onions we cooked for 60 minutes were incomparably jammy and candy sweet—much sweeter than the onions in the other two pans even though this was the only technique that did not call for any added sugar. These are they type of onions that will melt into mashed potatoes or squash and sink into a flatbread. They were also the most depleted in volume, so be warned: If you're looking for a lot of these super-sweet, smooshy onions, you're gong to be doing a whole lot of slicing.
- While not as soft or deeply flavored as the 60-minute pan, the onions that were given a baking soda boost were softer, sweeter, and more evenly cooked than the pan of onions that started covered. The onions don't lose as much volume in this method as compared to the 60-minute pan—so if you're short on raw onions but still looking for a soft, melting texture, consider this route.
- The onions that started in a covered pan were a bit more scorched-tasting (perhaps because of the sudden transition from low to high heat) and slightly tangier than the other two pans. They held their shape the best of the group, making them good candidates for any place where you'd like your onions to keep their integrity rather than dissolve, like in a pasta or a curry.
So it doesn't take 5 or 10 minutes to caramelize onions. So the shortcuts might not be as speedy as they claim to be. But you can still get a pan of sweet, soft onions in 30 to 40 minutes.
But are they "caramelized"? Perhaps the problem lies not with our inconsistency about cook time but with our lack of specificity in regards to just how those onions should look, taste, and behave. What does caramelized mean? (I know—big sigh!) Are you looking for falling-apart, jammy onions? You'll need an hour. Or are you looking for onions that are just starting to turn from yellow to brown? You might only need 20 minutes.
If we can be more specific about our language—moving beyond "golden-brown" and "caramelized"—we'll be able to be more specific about cook times, too.
Written by: Sarah Jampel
Popular on Food52
147 Comments
Lora S.
August 11, 2023
Hit the nail on the head with recipe writers not describing (or picturing) their intended 'caramelized' level. The term is becoming meaningless.
Smaug
August 11, 2023
The food industry tends in that direction; terms get used so often for different things that they lose all meaning. Names of dishes are the worst, since it's easier to market a familiar name; common names such as 'pizza", "chili", "Beef Stroganoff" have been used so much that they can mean nearly anything. But seemingly precise words wander off too- for instance, the terms "emulsion" or "emulsify" get used for any sort of mixture, maybe because they sound "scientific". Then there's the "heirloom tomatoes", a term with horticultural meaning but no culinary meaning; doesn't stop people from using it in recipes.
Sherri O.
March 4, 2020
Most of us don't have the time to devote an hour or more to carmelizing onions. I use onions with a high sugar content like Vidalia. I put them in a skillet with about 1/4 cup of water (depending on the volume of onions) and a tablespoon of oil over medium heat and give them a frequent stir. By the time the water has evaporated you have softened onions with oil and a lot of sugar. I continue cooking them until they're nicely browned. Takes no time at all.
SuzanneETC
December 18, 2020
I love reading readers’ comments in Food52. Alternative methods and tweaks are always interesting.
This article about caramelized onions meticulously breaks down several possible methods, time needed for each and the subsequent results.
Suggesting a different method, but skating over how long you need (“takes no time at all”) is only half helpful.
This article about caramelized onions meticulously breaks down several possible methods, time needed for each and the subsequent results.
Suggesting a different method, but skating over how long you need (“takes no time at all”) is only half helpful.
Fred R.
July 14, 2019
“Quick caramelized onions” is just a sign of the times. Now recipes must start with..”15 minutes” or “only three items” or “DIY aged cheddar cheese from Walmart mozzarella,”or, well you get it. Got to go to publication with a millennial “must have.”
berkopat
July 14, 2019
I make fegato ala Veneziana every once in awhile. For that recipe you have to slice sweet onions thinly and cook them in butter till very brown. It seems to take forever. Can you use the methods above for that recipe?
Alison
July 14, 2019
I generally am looking for the middle road on 'caramelized onions" because I want there to be distinguishable pieces of onion for the dishes I typically use them in. However, I appreciate the idea of the "onion jam" effect shown in the third example. It takes me around 35-40 minutes, although I do cover the onions for the first 10 minutes to let them soften without much browning. I do not detect a scorched odor when I do this, although I use more butter/oil (a 50/50 mixture, mostly) than called for here, usually 2TB for one onion, 3 for 2 onions, etc.), and I don't use a non-stick pan, although I do have one and like it for some things. I also will add a 1/2 Tsp of sugar if I am using standard yellow onions or red onions, since those seem the most tangy. But I really wanted to add my appreciation for the original article--this was one of those things in recipes that drove me crazy, and when I was less experienced as a cook, could thoroughly derail my schedule. It is a phenomenon in published recipes that I see too frequently, where the times given for prep and even the cooking part are inaccurate, and I usually adjust based on how long I think it will take ME. In more complicated recipes, it's easy to attribute the variance to the differences between a home cook (even an experienced one with decent equipment) and a professional chef or cookbook writer. With the onion story, it is clearly not about that, and the author nicely debunked the fantasy.
Janna B.
July 11, 2019
Don’t add water at any point as you caramelize onions unless you want soft, mushy paste. Low, slow, with lots of stirring. Nothing will stick or scorch, and you’ll end up with beautifully caramelized strands of onion with some texture intact. Much better that way when used in French Onion soup, on steaks or in sandwiches or burgers. Soft mushy caramelized onion “jam” is its own thing.
Nikki H.
July 11, 2019
Life is too short for me to make carmelized onions.
allis
July 11, 2019
Oh no! I didn't like onions until I first had them caramelized. They are like magic in adding flavor to all sorts of dishes. I recently added them to sauteed mushrooms and they were the best ever. I use 6-8 jumbo onions and caramelize them with a lot of olive oil and freeze them. They keep a long time and you can just cut off a chunk as needed.
wahini
May 14, 2019
Every so often I load a slow cooker with onions and let them cook
for 12 to 24 hours. Then I divide and freeze them.
for 12 to 24 hours. Then I divide and freeze them.
Jack B.
October 7, 2018
Here is a sure-fire way of caramelizing onions in 15 minutes or less:
1) Cut up a large yellow onion into large dice.
2) To a stainless steel 3 quart pot, add chicken fat to about a 1 inch depth, or until it will just cover the diced onions.
3) Turn on the heat to low so that the chicken fat melts.
4) Add the onions and stir with a flat wooden spatula.
5) Turn up the heat to maximum high and do not cover.
6) Set timer for 15 minutes and let sizzle, stirring occasionally.
7) After 12 minutes, edges of the dice should be starting to turn brown.
8) Stir and watch closely and when center of dice starts turning brown, turn off heat.
9) Let cool 5 to 10 minutes. and use the spatula to scoop dices into a container. You may want to add chicken broth to just cover the onions so that they absorb it to plump up.
10) Reserve fat for future use.
1) Cut up a large yellow onion into large dice.
2) To a stainless steel 3 quart pot, add chicken fat to about a 1 inch depth, or until it will just cover the diced onions.
3) Turn on the heat to low so that the chicken fat melts.
4) Add the onions and stir with a flat wooden spatula.
5) Turn up the heat to maximum high and do not cover.
6) Set timer for 15 minutes and let sizzle, stirring occasionally.
7) After 12 minutes, edges of the dice should be starting to turn brown.
8) Stir and watch closely and when center of dice starts turning brown, turn off heat.
9) Let cool 5 to 10 minutes. and use the spatula to scoop dices into a container. You may want to add chicken broth to just cover the onions so that they absorb it to plump up.
10) Reserve fat for future use.
Fred R.
September 3, 2018
While not a pressure cooker, years ago we had a slow cooker in which I made some caramelized onions a few times. They weren't even close in taste and texture to an hour and a half in an old iron skillet. Kind of a ball of mush. Maybe things are better today.
Joel
September 3, 2018
I used whole onions (outer layer peeled) in a pressure cooker for about 10 minutes (4 to 5 'actual' minutes from the time the steam started to come out), then chopped them (you won't get normal looking rings, as they are super limp and hard to chop) and put them on the stove w/olive oil and got decent results in about 45 minutes- I probably need to experiment with longer/shorter pressure cooker times and longer/shorter skillet times, but it seemed to cut a little time.
dvb
April 19, 2018
If you want Caramelized Onions without all the effort, time, and pain check out YUMYIN.com - great product!
GioFam
March 7, 2018
For the record, I'm currently making you Diane Kochilas' Pasta with Yogurt and Caramelized Onions - and it still says "20-30 minutes" - LIES! (an hour in, and not there yet)
allis
June 19, 2017
I use salt, lots of olive oil, and high heat until they start cooking fast. It takes close to an hour to get that jammy consistency
Philip T.
June 7, 2017
One of the most important elements in caramelizing onions is moderating temperature over those long cook times. It's easy to get distracted and that beautiful pan of caramelizing onions is suddenly half burnt and bitter! It's been pretty amazing to watch the Hestan Cue (hestancue.com) cook onions evenly from start to finish with precise temperature control...no more burnt onions!
Louise
June 5, 2017
I cook mine in a covered Dutch oven in a 400 degree oven for 2 - 2 1/2 hours stirring every 15 minutes. They turn out fabulous and are worth every minute.
StevenHB
June 4, 2017
I probably do 45 to 60 minutes, usually looking for onions that retain some shape as a topping for a focaccia (where they get cooked more when the bread bakes).
Carmen K.
June 4, 2017
I typically do at LEAST 30 min. But may have to start trying the hour long carmalization process make a bunch and keep them in a jar in the fridge. I think it'll be worth it in the long run!!
Steve H.
June 4, 2017
Depends on use but to push carmelizing forward, I use a dash of balsamic vinegar per onion. I only use salt in the middle of cooking if I want an onion jam.
judy
June 3, 2017
I have a hand cranked food processor. I recently discovered that I can chop those onions into small bits even chop and then proceed to caramelize. The process now only takes about 25 minutes because a larger amount of surface is exposed to the pan, I would surmise. I don't like the baking soda method because the onions seem a little bit mushier. Walla Walla sweets and Vidalias' seem to be the best varieties. I do this for making the base of a large batch of Indian curry sauce to freeze. Works well.
Corey O.
June 2, 2017
I caramelize onions in just a few minutes using a pressure cooker. Brilliantly fast French onion soup...
Alison S.
June 1, 2017
I thinly slice vidalia onions, add olive oil and butter and salt and pepper, then cook for about an hour, starting off pretty high temp stirring constantly then lower the heat and stir occasionally. The onions reduce in volume but are an absolutely delicious dark brown (not burnt) result. Perfect on burgers or anything else that appeals to you!
Andy
June 1, 2017
I don't know about the methods for speeding up the carmelization process. But i know that adding carmelized onions to almost any dish speeds up the eating process! Yum!
Pamela_in_Tokyo
May 12, 2017
One trick I heard here in Japan is to microwave the sliced onions for 15 minutes before cooking them in a frying pan. It breaks down the onion faster than doing it in the frying pan and caramelization would be faster I would think. This will be interesting to test.
Andy M.
June 14, 2017
This is a method Americas Test Kitchen used for the 2 lbs of onion needed for Mejdra. I think you add 1 teaspoon. Of salt per lb of onionthen ringer the onions in a colander before saluting It works and speeds up the process but I imagine you might loose some flavor in the rinse.
Arthur
May 12, 2017
Hello! My technique on caramelizing onions is good. However I would be interested in articles discussing how to caramelize other veggies and fruits. Thank you for any advice!
Kate P.
May 12, 2017
Pardon me if you already addressed this...In the pictures it looks like you used 3 different pans. Do you think the pans could have had influence on the outcome?
Jiminthekitchen
April 30, 2017
I was once instructed to throw out a batch in culinary after attempting to caramelize to quickly. Learned my lesson - now I take an hour and go slow.
jenniebgood
April 24, 2017
I've actually been caramelizing onions in a crockpot, adapting The Kitchen's method (http://www.thekitchn.com/how-to-caramelize-onions-in-the-slow-cooker-cooking-lessons-from-the-kitchn-193413). I start them after dinner and leave them overnight. In the morning I give them a stir and start watching them, stirring occasionally, until done (usually another 3-4 hours). They really come out pretty darn good, with MUCH less stirring/active involvement, and the onions maintain their integrity without becoming a pile of mush. I haven't yet tried this, but I think you could start them in the slow cooker and finish them on the stovetop to get the really brown, nutty bits, if you were so inclined. I am really about less stirring and standing over the stove, so for me this works.
I have also read that when caramelizing onions, you should slice them root to stem as they maintain their integrity better, and I've found this to be true as well. I slice them on the thick side, too (i.e. 1/8 - 1/4").
I have also read that when caramelizing onions, you should slice them root to stem as they maintain their integrity better, and I've found this to be true as well. I slice them on the thick side, too (i.e. 1/8 - 1/4").
Terry
April 24, 2017
Same here. My crockpot does the job easily! I freeze them in individual "piles" so when I want to add to a recipe they are handy.
Sosyphus42
May 12, 2017
After my first shot at crockpot caramelizing, I became an instant fan. Three pounds of Vidalia Sweets, a stick of unsalted butter, and a Tb of sugar, then 4 - 6 hours on LOW, and I'm set. Freeze in small batches for later.
Merilynch
June 1, 2017
I freeze them in ice cube trays and put in zip locks. Then back to the freezer for future use. I can take out as much or little as I need in tidy, neat quantities.
PapaGuido
April 24, 2017
As far as onions are concerned, Time is the only cure for a good caramelized onion. You have to decide what you want the end result to be. What are the onions going to be used for. Use the right onion for the dish you are cooking.
PapaGuido
April 24, 2017
For those cooking polenta. As a chef I can tell you that you will find it is always better to start in boiling water. However, if you mix the polenta in a separate bowl with half the water being cold first and mix till smooth, then add it to the boiling water you will find that there will be no lumps and a very smooth texture when done.
Karen F.
April 23, 2017
A friend gave me an absolutely wonderful recipe/method for carmelizing onions: Roasted in oven for 2hours, on covered baking sheet. 8 cups thinly sliced (abt. 3 XL onions), Mixed with 1/4 c. Dk. Brown Sugar, 1/4 cup maple syrup, 1/4 Balsamic Vinegar, 1 tsp. Kosher salt, 2 Tbl. Olive oil. Oven at 325. Drain onions before adding other ingreds. Spread onions onto large shallow baking pan, Cover with foil. Bake 2 hours. This method is absolutely perfect and doesn't need constant tending. Great for onion soup, quiche, on beef tenderloin. This is the first time I've shared with Food 52. You're so great and I've gotten all your books! A true inspiration for me. Thanks!
Brenda S.
May 4, 2017
Karen - the ingredients sound wonderful. This says drain onions before adding other ingredients - are the onions roasted by themselves first (for how long), then everything else added? If so, how long for the second roast?
Karen F.
May 4, 2017
I meant to say that the sliced onions shd. Be placed in a colander while you are getting the other ingreds. Together, so the clear liquid doesn't accumulate. This all happens BEFORE you put them on a baking sheet and cover with foil to roast. They roast for 2 hours at 325, without touching them. Good luck!
Deeba R.
April 23, 2017
In India, we caramelise onions A LOT for curries. I do it over low heat, stir often and get the courier to a beautiful crisp deep golden. Any darker, and the bitterness creeps in. It's a slow process, 25-30 minutes, and heavy bottom pans are best. The end result is always rewarding. Though now with time and patience at a premium, I reserve caramelising onions to absolutely necessary and/or special occasions. Also, I've found that adding a little salt to the onions makes them give up their water faster.
Fred R.
April 23, 2017
Many years ago I made my caramelised onions only for onion soup. I really just work on a bowl of some soup for the day's meals. However, for the past tens years or so, the onions go into a bowl of ramen. And, that's a ramen broth using an 18 hour simmer of pork bones so you can imagine the richness of the final product.
Martin
April 23, 2017
I've never tasted said caramelised onions. Is it worth 1 hour to do so? For me, it would have to taste pretty extraordinary for me to use that much time and resources on onions. I could use that time to bake a cake!
Greg O.
April 23, 2017
Oh, Martin! Yes, indeed, it is worth the time (and the zed - lol). Best part about making them is that they require so little time that you can have your onions (onyums!) and your time to bake your cake.
Rick
April 23, 2017
Yes it's worth it but more to the point if you want actually caramelized onions it takes 30-60 minutes. Yes you can brown onions in less time but that's a different flavor.
Erin H.
April 23, 2017
LOL! That IS the eternal question. Its answer would vary, of course, with taste and circumstances. If you don't much care about onion soup -- or if you adore it as made by a restaurant nearby -- by all means bake a cake, instead. Or collect a full set of unused caramelization hours and throw a dessert party!
Rick
April 23, 2017
BTW, the key things to remember if you try this and like it are two... First, that you can do this ahead in a big batch and freeze the results and second that it's almost entirely a passive process. Once you have the onions cut and simmering over low heat you can walk away and do something else. Like bake a cake.
Martin
April 24, 2017
Well, if it is over low heat that is another story. After reading the article I was under the impression you had it over medium high and had to keep stirring all the time or else it would stick to the pan. As for the zed, I wrote it with zed, but it was autocorrected as I have the autocorrection in British. It would be interesting to taste a good onion soup, as to be honest it sounds yucky; maybe because I think of whole onions thrown into boiling water and then blitzed at the end. I haven't had any cooking role models in my life!
Maria L.
April 24, 2017
Mmmm - an onion soup done with the time and care of a wintery day with little else to do - perfect. Restaurant onion soups are too salty, too much hurrying for the end product. No - allow for a rich broth, rich onions and bread/cheese as the eater sees fit.
Mark L.
April 23, 2017
I've found that a small batch will cut the time down immensely. I generally use 2 small yellow onions with a small amount of oil and cook on low heat in a heavy pan for between 45 minutes and an hour depending on how caramelised I want the result. Mine tend to hold their shape and don't look as mushy as these pictures. This may be because I don't deglaze the pan, which requires more attention but doesn't slow things down as much.
melvyn L.
April 23, 2017
Check out Peter Reinhart's recipe for sweet and sour onion marmalade in "American Pie; The Search for the Perfect Pizza"
Dennis F.
April 23, 2017
It has been very frustrating as an onion grower to see people that should know better use the wrong type of onion to caramelize. I have read recipes and articles that tell people to use Vidalia or other "sweet" onions. The thought is that a sweet onion has more sugars and will caramelize better. Wrong! "Sweet" onions have lower pungency so you notice the sugars more readily when consumed raw or slightly sautéed.
Your basic everyday NE produced yellow cooking onion has nearly 2x the level of sugars over sweet onions. More sugars = faster caramelization. So you can have a sweet jammy onion that still has its structure instead of looking like a puddle of mud.
In fact with a sweet onion the water content is much higher. This water needs to release and evaporate before the onion will begin to caramelize.
I can do a 20 minute rant on this but you get the idea.
Your basic everyday NE produced yellow cooking onion has nearly 2x the level of sugars over sweet onions. More sugars = faster caramelization. So you can have a sweet jammy onion that still has its structure instead of looking like a puddle of mud.
In fact with a sweet onion the water content is much higher. This water needs to release and evaporate before the onion will begin to caramelize.
I can do a 20 minute rant on this but you get the idea.
CK
April 24, 2017
Dennis I couldn't agree more. As a California farmer (citrus, avocado, meat goats) what type or variety of fruit, onions, goats, citrus, avocado will make all the difference in at recipe. Thanks for the comment!
Barbara
April 24, 2017
I've caramelized onions twice and used sweet onions both times, because that is what I use. I use a cast iron skillet, slice the onions from root to stem end, and end up with a beautiful result, not the globby mess shown in the photos above--those don't even look appetizing! I will definitely caramelize yellow onions the next time. I frequently go to growers' websites, looking for recipes and tips for using their produce, but too many times I find nothing for the consumer. It's a shame, because they would be the best source for getting the most out of what they produce!
Gail G.
April 23, 2017
And why can't you start polenta in cold water?
Rick
April 23, 2017
You could, I suppose, but you want it to start cooking right off and you don't want it to clump. Whisking it into boiling water does both and the cooking time is basically the same.
Martin
April 23, 2017
Wait, I've heard something about this before. My wife comes from Romania and there they always pour it when the water is boiling, and as a result, it always has lumps. It was almost sacrilege of me to put it in when when the water was cold. I argued it wasn't lumpy then, and had the results to prove it.
Rick
April 23, 2017
"they always pour it when the water is boiling, and as a result, it always has lumps. " Which is why you whisk as you pour. But hey, if adding it cold works too...
piggledy
April 27, 2017
You can also prepare polenta in a fuzzy logic rice cooker, start the polenta in cold water, use the five to one ratio recently suggested by Kenji Lopez Alt, and set completion time two hours out (or more). This will allow the polenta to soak up, and will prevent grittiness or undercooked polenta. The result is beautiful polenta, perfectly hydrated - this is what I do for shrimp and grits, or for breakfast polenta.
Zoe's G.
April 23, 2017
Thank you! It's nice to have the back-up. After disastrously delaying dinner some years ago, I always start caramelizing onions a minimum of an hour ahead of when I need to use them - it's just not possible to rush this step and get reliable results. I agree with those who said it was like making risotto - there are quick techniques or processes which will yield something similar, but not the true, deeply-flavored, rich sweetness of real caramelized onions. That takes time and at least some attention.
Janet M.
April 23, 2017
Julia Child had it right--her recipe for French onion soup--"sweat" the thinly sliced onions for 15 min in a covered pan, remove cover, raise heat, add a bit of sugar and stir until browned, 30-40 minutes. I have always planned on nearly an hour to get onions properly caramalized
Barb
May 13, 2017
Wow, I caramelize onions several times a month, and hit on this trick myself several years ago as a way to keep them from drying out before they finished. I had no idea I was following in Julia's footsteps!
Janet M.
June 9, 2017
The other thing that takes time is roux for cajun or creole dishes. It definitely takes a while to brown flour and oil into the necessary mahogany color. Getting back to the onions, they can be totally ignored during that sweat period, but I can do other things in the kitchen while keeping track of the browning onions so they don't burn
allis
June 27, 2023
I make my roux in a very heavy pot over high heat. It's very quick and you have to be careful, then add your pre-chopped vegetables to cool it down once it gets to the desired color
geekchorus
April 23, 2017
I cook mostly by weight do I use 6 pounds of onions (roughly 12 medium) in my very old 16-inch smooth bottom cast iron skillet, and freeze any leftovers. The science here is getting the moisture out so that the temperature can get high enough to caramelize. I do it around other kitchen chores, and have occasionally turned them off, let them cool, covered them, and turned them back on the next day. I turn them down as they get more "sticky"--so it can take a total of 2 hours or more, depending on how soon I turn them down to simmer, but this approach is totally stress free, so long as you don't need them right away.
geekchorus
April 23, 2017
Oh, and I NEVER deglaze with added moisture--it just slows everything down.
Jean R.
April 23, 2017
Thank you for this. I never pay attention to the recipes that suggest 10 to whatever number of minutes, but it was a pleasure to see this in print.
porchapples
April 23, 2017
...and what about the standards at the opposite range ...Keller's 5 hour plus instruction on page 50 of Bouchon!!!
bugbitten
April 23, 2017
Congratulations to Food 52 for exposing "that man behind the curtain" regarding our disrespected deity, the Onion. It's very heartening to read these comments and see what a teacher the Onion has been for humble cooks in this age of "celebrity chefs", the false gods who must be followed.
Kudos to Chef June and Sam1148 (long-time correspondents), for pointing me to learn that one Onion can, in your hands, play both villain and heroine.
I imagine a 2025 Hotline submission that suggests an Onion substitute for 10X sugar. Ha!
Kudos to Chef June and Sam1148 (long-time correspondents), for pointing me to learn that one Onion can, in your hands, play both villain and heroine.
I imagine a 2025 Hotline submission that suggests an Onion substitute for 10X sugar. Ha!
Dave K.
April 23, 2017
Missing here are pressure cooked, especially in a Bain Marie yep setup, with butter as well as sous vide, each of which can yield more consistent results. Pressure cooking a whole bunch of whole onions, peeled, with some salt,baking soda, butter and maybe a small amount of chicken stock, results in deeply caramelized onions suitable for delicious French onion soup, within about 20-30 minutes.
Dave K.
April 23, 2017
Type setup *** (Annoying autocorrect) . Also pressure cook on +1 atmosphere. Or sous vide several hours with butter, salt, baking soda at 183f for excellent results.
Greg O.
April 23, 2017
Caramelized over medium-high heat? No higher than medium low and no sugar -- especially if using sweet onions. Perhaps start on medium to melt the butter, sweat the onions and evaporate most of the moisture. After that, low and slow is the way to go. Carmelized, not burned. We've made gallons of French onion soup and bushels of green beans with balsamic caramelized onions. It never takes less than an hour to get the right onion texture and color, and they've never burned at a medium low setting (2 on a 11-scale electric cooktop and stainless All-Clad pan.
Lara Q.
April 23, 2017
Medium heat is as high as I go. With medium-high, burning is inevitable even in my DO.
jbrr
April 23, 2017
I do mine in giant batches, in olive oil, in a roasting pan in the oven. It takes about 3 hrs. I tried the slow cooker way, but I didn't like it as much.
geekchorus
April 23, 2017
Oh, this makes sense--I always make my apple butter (the real, chocolate brown caramelized kind, not spiced applesauce), in the oven, and the two aspects of driving off the moisture and driving the temperature slowly up would be the same. THANKS FOR THIS!!
Erin H.
April 23, 2017
In my view, recipes in the manner of French Onion Soup and Lemon Curd are meant to be meditations. To get what what you want, you can't speed them up; you must slow yourself down.
Accordingly, I budget at least half an hour of careful attention for caramelizing onions. The ingredients are as classic as the method: Until they're done, nothing goes into the pot except very thinly hand-sliced onions, a stick of unsalted butter and a wooden spoon The pot, BTW, is my favorite stockpot: Italian circa 1980, so heavy there's still not a dent on it.
When uninclined to make such a fuss (most days), I cook something else. There's a monster range of culinary tempi, although I never thought of it that way before. Generally I'm galloping along in allegro, like everybody else.
Accordingly, I budget at least half an hour of careful attention for caramelizing onions. The ingredients are as classic as the method: Until they're done, nothing goes into the pot except very thinly hand-sliced onions, a stick of unsalted butter and a wooden spoon The pot, BTW, is my favorite stockpot: Italian circa 1980, so heavy there's still not a dent on it.
When uninclined to make such a fuss (most days), I cook something else. There's a monster range of culinary tempi, although I never thought of it that way before. Generally I'm galloping along in allegro, like everybody else.
Bruce C.
April 23, 2017
The only authentic method takes 45 minutes to an hour on low heat uncovered . Using a decent quality heavier bottom stock pot works best. I typically do at least 10 pounds + in a batch at home , and 50 to 100 pounds at the restaurant. Real salted butter and patience is the trick. Pinch of sugar does accelerate the process but not by much. Baking soda - no way. Higher heat will get you into trouble , and I never add water or liquid. It is like risotto in that you have to be patient and stir once in a while.
Andrew G.
April 23, 2017
Suprized that no one has brought the question of added salt into the conversation. From what I've read, salt slows the process when added at the beginning, but doesn't get as deeply incorporated into the product if added towards the end. I usually add at the beginning if I have more time, reserve until the end if more pressed. What do others think? Also, for me, I like the cleaner taste of a neutral oil - keeps the focus on the onions. I go for a slightly thicker slice of ~ 1/8 inch as I like my onions to retain a bit of integrity rather than the jammy product that some like. I would guess that salt helps in that regard too. My favorite application is on pizza - red sauce, lots and lots of caramelized onions, canned clams (drained of course), maybe bits of cooked bacon, and optional scant sprinkling of good Parmigiano-Reggiano if you like. The onions totally replace the mozzarella.
berta
April 23, 2017
Great article!. I always felt somehow inferior because my onions didn't carmelize in the 5 min to 30 minutes receipes so often stated. You have raised my self-esteem.
LynnSomerstein
April 23, 2017
Anybody ever freeze caramelized onions?
Andrew G.
April 23, 2017
For me, the largest pan I have (big 14" carbon steel skillet) with 6 large onions still only results in a cup or so of finished product so it dosen't stick around long enough to worry about :-) it seems to last long enough in the fridge for me to find ways to use them up. But as others have noted, the one time I did it worked out fine.
Karin B.
April 23, 2017
I like the way these men (below) cook. "10 pounds of onions and a sick of butter", that just warms my heart.
MBE
April 23, 2017
Variables rule! Type and amount of onion, size and type of pan etc. etc. etc. I teach a lot of classes and I'm always amused when people pull out their phones to time a process. Times in recipes (yes even baking) are guidelines to be considered but not gospel truth. I think that's why hands on group classes are so cool.
Mark R.
April 23, 2017
Totally agree. That's why I like to listen and smell - while I am preparing something else in close proximity.
AL R.
April 23, 2017
I make a lot of onion soup and always like to have some caramelized onions around for burgers, meat loaf and flat bread etc. I put about 6-8 thinly sliced onions into a crock pot. Add a tablespoon of sea salt and 2 tablespoons of olive oil. 10 hours in low and they are awesome. If you want them sweeter you can add some sugar but they naturally become sweet during the process. I know it takes longer, but works every time. A little butter, S & P, thyme, beef stock, bay leaves and flour and you have great onion soup.
LynnSomerstein
April 23, 2017
Anybody try a slow cooker or a pressure cooker?
Fred R.
April 23, 2017
Years ago I used a slow cooker several times and always thought the final product was too "melted" and tasted muddled. Maybe just me, but I do a lot of caramelized onions....about 10 onions at a time. Usually takes an hour or so.
Joanna C.
April 23, 2017
I was actually pretty pleased with the slow cooker onions. They take hours and the whole house smells of caramelized onions but I thought the taste and texture were fine - and they did not have to be watched as closely as the ones on the stove top. There is NOTHING worse than letting them burn at the 40 minute mark. That said, I have only done that once. I don't usually plan meals that far in advance.
Liza
April 23, 2017
Serious Eats shows how to make it in a pressure cooker / Instant Pot, but results, while tasting not bad, end up falling apart into a big wet mush.
http://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/2016/01/pressure-cooker-caramelized-onion-recipe.html
Cook time on high in an Instant Pot is around 22 minutes, and then you need to spend almost as much time reducing the resulting liquid on low boil in the pot, plus the time to bring the pot up to temperature (8-10 minutes). So you end up with the taste, but not the look, and it takes about as long.
The only reason to use a pressure cooker is to eliminate time standing at the stovetop and babying the onions. But overall time is the same or longer.
http://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/2016/01/pressure-cooker-caramelized-onion-recipe.html
Cook time on high in an Instant Pot is around 22 minutes, and then you need to spend almost as much time reducing the resulting liquid on low boil in the pot, plus the time to bring the pot up to temperature (8-10 minutes). So you end up with the taste, but not the look, and it takes about as long.
The only reason to use a pressure cooker is to eliminate time standing at the stovetop and babying the onions. But overall time is the same or longer.
Mark R.
April 23, 2017
No sugar, no baking soda. Cast iron pan if possible. Olive oil not butter. Start on high, then reduce the heat as needed - "as needed" = listen, smell and occasionally turn everything over with a spatula. It takes as long as it takes and just how sweet you want.
Steven W.
April 23, 2017
Mark has it...to me, the 15 minute onions are what I call caramelized. the 60 minute ones look burnt and mushy. Now of course it depends on are these for a sandwich or to smear...
M
April 18, 2017
Though I've read ridiculously short cooking times all over the place online, always look to the chefs! Pulling two random chef's cookbooks from my shelves (Robuchon & Pfeiffer) both say 20-30 minutes on low just to *soften* onions, not caramelize them. Robuchon did, however, also note a "caramelized onion" that is sliced in half and cooked briefly. Perhaps some confusion stems from how we apply chef's terms, or French cooking terms, to general cooking.
Nevertheless, this issue is a great reminder that we should all be more aware of what we include, omit, don't understand, and fail to question about the recipes we share. I hope this methodology (and challenging) works its way into Food52's future content.
Nevertheless, this issue is a great reminder that we should all be more aware of what we include, omit, don't understand, and fail to question about the recipes we share. I hope this methodology (and challenging) works its way into Food52's future content.
ChefJune
April 18, 2017
Hurrah for your scientific research, Sarah! And for demystifying the caramelization of onions. There really is no substitution for time and patience. Now I'm thinking Pissaladiere Nicoise for dinner tonight!
Linda B.
April 18, 2017
Thanks for this. I thought it was just me that thought it nuts when a recipe stated 5-10 minutes to caramelize onions! My biggest angst is which way to slice them to allow them to caramelize about the same pace.
Bruce C.
April 23, 2017
VERY important question and usually overlooked Linda. Julienne side to side along the grain of the onion to leave the fibers long and they will maintain some shape. Julienne across the grain end to end and they will lose shape and almost dissolve.
Sam1148
April 17, 2017
Caramelizing onions takes exactly as long as it takes to caramelize the onion. No more no less.
You have sweet onions like Texas Sweets and Vadalia...and you have basic yellow onions, and you have the onions you get in late winter that have been stored for months and are bitter. So you can't just say a specific time...it's ready when the onion is ready.
You have sweet onions like Texas Sweets and Vadalia...and you have basic yellow onions, and you have the onions you get in late winter that have been stored for months and are bitter. So you can't just say a specific time...it's ready when the onion is ready.
Sam1148
April 17, 2017
and even within "Yellow Onions" yellow onions in the late winter are often bitter...they've been stored since october...sometimes in a warehouse with high nitrogen atmosphere. Yellow Onions from the farmers market will sweeten quicker when caramelized. While late winter yellow onions benifit from the long oven carmalization...like the classic "America's Test Kitchen" onion soup recipe. Which is really nasty and too sweet if you use farmers market yellow onions recently yanked from the ground.
But it's spot on if you use late winter bulk yellow onions from walmart in January.
But it's spot on if you use late winter bulk yellow onions from walmart in January.
Sarah J.
April 17, 2017
Good to know (and makes sense!) that onions harvested at different times of year will caramelize differently.
Smaug
April 18, 2017
A good thing to remember for most kitchen processes. People want simple, definite answers to their questions (how long to bake? how much flour to add? etc.) when the answer is usually "enough"- there are always plenty of unstated variables.
Steven W.
April 23, 2017
late season onions are the bane of any cook---that slippery skin, the uneven texture, the hollowness. Ugh...I've cut myself (slightly) more times cutting these late onions than any other item in preparation.
Smaug
April 17, 2017
My experience pretty well matches the article; how far I actually take it depends on the dish. I do not add anything, but sometimes I'll do mixed dishes where I cook peppers, celery etc. along with the onions. I usually use a nonstick pan and very little by way of oil- still have to deglaze occasionally. If you can get food writers to be more exact in their language, it should be good for at least a Nobel.
Rachel
April 17, 2017
when i'm making french onion soup, i tend to slice up the bunch and add a tiny sprinkle of sugar and baking powder, then ratchet up the heat to medium high to get a fond developing quickly on the bottom, deglaze with white wine, allow it to reduce again, and build the fond, and deglaze twice more. After three rounds of deglazing the pan, they're ready. Seems to go faster and i really don't feel that i sacrifice too much in flavor.
Rick
April 17, 2017
If you regularly use cartelized onions, you might want to grab a bunch of yellow onions on sale (like 5-10) slice them and them put the in a pan in a 200-250 oven. Less worrying about burning (but do check them every 20 mins or so) and a reasonable Sunday project. To save them, put them in containers and freeze (plastic bags or small glass containers)
Leslie V.
April 23, 2017
Rick, did you use oil or butter. any sugar or salt? About how long on the oven?
Leslie V.
April 23, 2017
Also what type or pan did you use.? Wondering if my 14" Lodge CI would be OK?
Rick
April 23, 2017
A bit of salt, no butter (though it would be fine.). 200 in an oven for about an hour but check and stir at 20 minutes (to make sure things are really doing low and slow) and then around 35 or 40 to see how they're coming. Any ovensafe pan should be fine - I used a Le Crueset Dutch oven. Mine were sliced thin using a mandolin. Could take longer and will give you a different texture if you slice thicker.
Dianne J.
April 17, 2017
I found that recipes called for the heat to be very low, but I simply had to turn it up or the onions would just take forever.
curtevans
April 17, 2017
The one technique that does work is to microwave onions before putting them in the pan. They will spark(!), but that doesn't hurt anything.
curtevans
April 21, 2017
Depends on the onion and quantity, but I start with a minute. That's usually enough to get them soft. You don't need to add anything.
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