A Big Little Recipe has the smallest-possible ingredient list and big everything else: flavor, creativity, wow factor. Psst—we don't count water, salt, black pepper, and certain fats (specifically, 1/2 cup or less of olive oil, vegetable oil, and butter), since we're guessing you have those covered. Today, we’re making a vegetarian take on lobster rolls.
It’s easy to assume that a lobster roll is all about the lobster, which has skyrocketed in popularity over the years. In the 1600s, this crawly crustacean—then used as fish bait—was called the “cockroach of the sea.” Over four centuries later, it goes for $14.99/pound, and is synonymous with luxury. In “Shake Ya Bum Bum,” Lil’ Kim raps, “No more franks for this ma, now it's lobster.”
But what makes lobster so much better than franks? Its flavor is as mild as a chicken breast and its texture significantly chewier. And it’s pretty darn fussy to cook yourself.
Don’t get me wrong: If I’m at the shore, I’m more than happy to order a lobster roll (or a lobster-BLT) at a local sandwich shop. But you’d be hard-pressed to find me making one at home. Which is why my new favorite “lobster” roll recipe doesn’t actually have any lobster. It has eggplant.
At a glance, lobster and eggplant couldn’t be more different. One is red, the other purple. One is a crustacean, the other a vegetable. One is usually expensive, the other couldn’t be cheaper. But both have a subtle-sweet flavor and chewy-meets-tender consistency. And both remind me that, even though Labor Day has come and gone, it’s still technically summer.
Some recipes will tell you that peeling eggplant is necessary because the skin is unbearably bitter. But to me, it’s less bitter than radicchio, and I love radicchio. In this case, keeping the skin boosts the color contrast on the dish, a lot like lobster chunks with their rosy outsides and creamy white middles.
A lot of recipes will also tell you to salt the eggplant, let it weep (did you know eggplant is mostly water?), then towel it dry. This, I always do. It takes a Queer Eye episode’s worth of planning ahead and a few minutes of active work. The return is briney, well-seasoned eggplant, almost as if it grew from the ocean, creamier texture, and better browning.
How long to roast the eggplant is up to you. Less time means a more toothsome bite, much like plump chunks of lobster. More time yields something that will get you closer to eggplant dip when mixed, which is wonderful in its own way.
Beyond the eggplant, these rolls follow classic lobster roll protocol: Buttered, toasted, split-top hot dog buns. (The split-top, also known as New England–style, is distinguished by its flat sides, all the better for griddling.) A mostly-mayo dressing—with lemon, salt, and pepper—and not too much of it. And itty-bitty diced celery. I like mixing some into the roasted eggplant salad and sprinkling the rest on top for a pop of green.
Like a lobster roll, these are best while the buns are still toasty and melty. Unlike a lobster roll, you’ll find me making them at home, year round, and on a whim.
| 1 | globe eggplant (18 to 22 ounces) |
| 1 1/4 | teaspoons kosher salt, plus more to taste |
| 1 | tablespoon unsalted butter, melted, plus more room-temperature butter for spreading |
| 1 1/2 | stalks celery, very finely diced |
| 2 | tablespoons mayonnaise |
| 1 | tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice |
| 1 | pinch freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste |
| 4 | split-top hot dog buns, white or whole-wheat |
| 1 | globe eggplant (18 to 22 ounces) |
| 1 1/4 | teaspoons kosher salt, plus more to taste |
| 1 | tablespoon unsalted butter, melted, plus more room-temperature butter for spreading |
| 1 1/2 | stalks celery, very finely diced |
| 2 | tablespoons mayonnaise |
| 1 | tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice |
| 1 | pinch freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste |
| 4 | split-top hot dog buns, white or whole-wheat |
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Written by: Emma Laperruque
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14 Comments
Spread the beautiful luscious combination on a brown toast with a generous amount of fresh parsley. it was amazing lunch.
Thanks, Emma. Wish you the best
Someone mentioned a zucchini 'crabcake'. Thats funny, Ive always thought fried zucchini tasted like seafood.
U can find many vegan crabcake recipes on line that can be modified to include zucchini or just use it exclusively. Texture won't resemble crab so much but the flavor is the same. I like to use kelp and old bay seasoning and a little finely chopped parsley. I grate the zucchini on the fine side of grater. Squeeze out excess moisture. My original zuke crabcake recipe didn't use chickpeas but I find them a nice addition. U can also find faux tuna salad on line too made w/chickpeas.
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