Coriander

Cilantro: The Divisive Herb

August  8, 2013

Every week we get Down & Dirty, in which we break down our favorite unique seasonal fruits, vegetables, and more.

Today: We're talking about everyone's favorite (or not) herb -- cilantro. Love it? We’ve got fresh ideas for working cilantro into your meals. Hate it? There might be hope for you yet.

Cilantro: The Divisive Herb, from Food52

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Cilantro is one of those items that quickly breaks people into two camps -- you either love or hate it. Cilantro haters often complain of its metallic or soapy taste, and blame genetics for their aversion. We’re into tough love though, because although studies have shown a genetic component, a recent one has found that the heritability of cilantro preference is low. This means that only a small percentage of cilantro dislike can be blamed on genetics -- so give it another chance. Harold McGee suggests starting with pesto, because crushing the leaves can help reduce the offending odors.

At least in the United States, the name cilantro refers to the fresh herb, while the dried fruits (what we refer to as seeds) from the same plant are called coriander. Elsewhere, coriander can refer to both the fresh leaves and the seeds -- and the fresh leaves are also sometimes called Chinese parsley. 

Cilantro: The Divisive Herb, from Food52

More: Find a farmers market near you on Real Time Farms, so you can stock up on cilantro (and other fresh herbs)

What to Look For and How to Store
Choose bunches of cilantro that are perky and vibrantly green (2) -- pass on any that seem overly wilty, bruised, or yellowed (1). Once you get it home, store it like basil -- in a glass of water with a bag over the top. But unlike basil, cilantro can then be put in the refrigerator for a week or two. If you’d like yours to hang around longer than that, Elizabeth Schneider recommends freezing cilantro roots (the entire plant is edible!), as she finds that freezing puréed cilantro leaves renders them tasteless and bitter. And before you cook with it, make your life easier by washing it like greens (3) with just a big bowl of water and a tea towel -- no salad spinner required.

Cilantro: The Divisive Herb, from Food52

How to Use
Cilantro is a member of the parsley family (along with parsnips and fennel); and in Vegetable Literacy, Deborah Madison suggests pairing cilantro with other members of the family, too, like carrots and celery. Cilantro complements fishlamb, or chicken; and punches up would-be-basics like rice, naan, and socca. Cilantro is begging to add zip to your sauces -- gremolatachimichurri, or mojo. And what would salsaguacamole, and quesadillas be without it? Yes, cilantro even works in desserts and beverages (try a watermelon or mango margarita). Ready for more ideas? We've got you covered for the week:

Friday: Corn Salad with Cilantro & Caramelized Onions 
Saturday: Southwestern Spiced Sweet Potato Fries with Chili-Cilantro Sour Cream 
Sunday: Veggie Masala Burgers with Cilantro Chutney Aioli 
Monday: Paula Wolfert's Herb Jam with Olives and Lemon 
Tuesday: Corn and Feta Pizza with Cilantro Lime Pesto 
Wednesday: Sautéed Spring Mushrooms, Chiles + Cilantro in Caramelized Coconut Broth
Thursday: Tamarind Glazed Swordfish with Lime, Cilantro and Tamarind Sauce 

Photos by James Ransom 

See what other Food52 readers are saying.

  • AlwaysLookin
    AlwaysLookin
  • Cook@117
    Cook@117
  • James
    James
  • cookinalong
    cookinalong
  • Panfusine
    Panfusine
I like esoteric facts about vegetables. Author of the IACP Award-nominated cookbook, Cooking with Scraps.

45 Comments

AlwaysLookin October 22, 2021
What's the problem with most Cilantro bunches at the Grocery, NO FLAVOR! Well, there's a simple solution to find the best bunch - give it a shake and then sniff, if the fragrance hits you, buy it, if not, try another bunch!
 
Cook@117 September 16, 2021
I only once found too much cilantro in a recipe and that was walnut cilantro pesto. On the other hand, pistachio pesto was very good. I think the slight bitterness of the unskinned walnuts (who has the patience to skin walnuts) with the cilantro was not a good combination
 
James September 14, 2013
Who in their right mind keeps eating something disgusting to them in order to make themselves like it? Yeah, keep eating it and you'll like it? What mentality is that? I don't like arsenic but I will if I keep eating it. I hate cilantro and always will. If my brain is offended by it, if it makes me gag, if my response is to spit it out, well then my brain is protecting me. Won't surprise me if we learn soon that cilantro causes cancer.
 
cookinalong August 18, 2013
I never realized how polarizing cilantro is! Who knew? I know more people who object to cumin. Luckily, I love both. But don't get me started about beets....
 
Panfusine August 9, 2013
I sometimes dry the stems at 220 F in the oven, crumble them add add to my spice mixtures. Can't define the taste, but it adds a fabulous dimension to the blends.
 
Panfusine August 9, 2013
200 F, Not 220 F, Sorry for that typo
 
Karl R. August 9, 2013
I usually love cilantro, though sometimes it catches me off guard as soapy and gross - any evidence it varies by variety?
 
Panfusine August 9, 2013
I planted 3 varieties this year to test any 'hypothesis ' that may be postulated. The coriander seeds from the Indian stores (which are a bit elongated , football shaped compared to the more spherical ones you find in seed packets), the other was a Delfino which has finger like leaves rather than tha Palm shaped ones that the other 2 varieties yield. The delfino was definitely more delicate & citrussy, as compared to the other two. The Indian store seeds yielded delicate plants with thin stems, the other one was the typical thick seeded ones that you see in the supermarket. I don't taste the soapiness, so cant judge on that factor.
 
Panfusine August 9, 2013
I meant Stemmed, rather than seeded.
 
louanne August 9, 2013
For years I despised cilantro, just couldn't tolerate the flavor. Then, magically, a coworker brought in a Thai dish, and it looked so delicious, I couldn't resist tasting - I became an instant convert! Now, I'm rocking Asian and Mexican dishes :)
 
Alison L. August 9, 2013
Former cilantro hater here! I published this essay on hating / loving it, and a bunch of other foods:
http://inquisitiveeater.com/2013/01/30/gene-therapy/
 
carswell August 9, 2013
Put me in the cilantro lover category. Years ago a friend gave me an entire cookbook of cilantro recipes and I've never looked back.
 
Renee G. August 9, 2013
so interesting really. I used to hate it because it tasted like soap. Now I love, love, love it!
 
friedathecat August 9, 2013

All I can say is that if it's a choice between life or cilantro...adios! And BTW, soap tastes better than cilantro.
 
Ann C. August 9, 2013
My understanding about Cilantro is that it is one of the herbs that can be used in heavy metals detoxification. Perhaps the revulsion some feel towards it, and their violent reactions, are the result of heavy metals toxins in the body, and not the *true* reaction of the taster. I've heard it said in the alternative medical communities that those with little or no amalgam dental work seem to be cilantro lovers, and those with a great deal of amalgam dental work, and those who have been tested and found positive for high levels of heavy metal poisoning revile it. Not saying there is a definite connection, but it made me think...
 
ChefJune August 9, 2013
I don't have heavy metals in my body. Go through detox of many kinds on a regular basis. I have NO mercury in my mouth. And I can't stand cilantro. Try again!
 
Panfusine August 9, 2013
That's an interesting piece of Information..I don't know if its something about Cilantro being included in the daily Diet from early child hood which would depend upon the native cuisine you grew up with.

I used to spit it out as a child (driving my mother crazy), but only because I hated the soft stems that clung to the tongue when eating it, The taste never bothered me at all.
 
Chris O. August 8, 2013
I loooooove cilantro. But I wish my Vietnamese sandwich shop would leave the stems off my bánh mì. Stems are awful. Otherwise, give it to me.
 
Katie P. August 8, 2013
Yeah, I'm personal proof that it's not genetic but experiential. The first times I tasted it (and not just a few times, but maybe the first four years or so) it tasted utterly awful. Like an explosion of soap in my mouth. Like, gag inducing. But it's in so many foods that I love that I just kept eating it. Eventually the taste just... changed. It was really cool actually. The soap flavor just faded away and the herb flavor came to the forefront. My brain was just building new connections. Now I love it.
 
ChefJune August 9, 2013
I wish...
 
Lisa August 8, 2013
How we taste this is genetic but context matters. too! While I love cilantro, I always ask preferences before using it in cooking. I just used mint as an alternative as suggested by a recipe at foodinjars.com. It does the trick!
 
Robin C. August 8, 2013
Ugh can't stand it tastes like baby shampoo.
 
valnsc August 8, 2013
YES! never thought dish water. you have nailed it for me.
 
valnsc August 8, 2013
Learned that I am actually allergic to it. Want to see me run???? I become an Olympic sprinter.
 
Ken W. August 8, 2013
The roots and stems have an entirely different flavor profile. They can be difficult to get because many suppliers remove the roots before packaging. We grow cilantro in our garden at school just so I can harvest the roots-but you have to wait until the plant bolts in order to get a significant amount of root.
 
Sam1148 August 8, 2013
My Partner is in the "hater crowd". However he discovered while making Thai Curries that the stem and roots don't bother him, and he trims off all the leaf. I get the cilantro flavor and he doesn't complain about that "Filthy nasty soap weed". This might not work for you or yours, but worth trying.
 
Ken W. August 8, 2013
Love cilantro! And be sure to save the roots (freeze) as they are an essential ingredient in Thai curries.
 
amytuso August 8, 2013
I have been making a tea with it which is delicious. I've been drinking it to cleanse my kidneys as I was shown to have moderate kidney failure. 3 mo. into doing this daily, my testing came back improved!
 
Mary P. August 8, 2013
I've always heard that if you try something ten times, you will start to like it. It worked for me with cilantro!
 
ChefJune August 9, 2013
Ten times? How about 10 thousand?
 
toi August 8, 2013
i love cilantro with all my heart. i always pick a few leaves while cooking and eat them raw.
this is the first time i've heard that some people find it soapy, to me it's always tasted more like citric and oh, so heavenly ?
 
Joe C. August 8, 2013
Why on earth whould I want to use offending odors, when we have parsely without any smelly odors!
 
Robin S. August 8, 2013
The first time that I tasted cilantro I thought that there was something wrong with the food, as if it had gone bad. Then I encountered and hated tarragon. I know accept and use cilantro. I like it well enough to buy it and use it.
 
Rochelle B. August 8, 2013
My favorite cilantro thing is a pesto made with pistachios. Uff! So delicious on grilled meat.
 
darksideofthespoon August 8, 2013
I used to be in the "No no no cilantro, ever!" group. Now I'm happily on the other side. It's great, though I just can't eat *too* much of it. ;)
 
ChefJune August 8, 2013
That's what I was hoping for. I keep trying every so often -- for more than 20 years now -- and still no go. Give me sweetbreads, tongue, tripe, kidneys (no SPAM). Cilantro is just unpleasant.
 
pierino August 8, 2013
I love cilantro. But I've stopped trying to force it on people who just hate the soapy taste. For some reason the "herb" flavor just doesn't come through to them. I don't think we can convert them. I can teach people to like tongue,tripes and even SPAM but I've failed with cilantro.
 
Panfusine August 8, 2013
I can't Live without cilantro in my kitchen. It would be like running out milk!
 
Desert D. August 8, 2013
Yeah, no. Cilantro is the only food I can't tolerate no matter how it's prepared. I can detect even the smallest sprinkle in a pot of food because it makes everything taste like a mouthful of nickels. I've always thought the genetic factor made sense, because honestly and truly, my knee-jerk response to tasting cilantro is to spit it out as if it was poison. I've heard folks describe it as citrusy, which sounds lovely, but that's not at ALL what I taste. Practice and open-mindedness has nothing to do with it.
 
fatgirleating August 8, 2013
i'm there with you, except it tastes like dawn dish washing liquid to me. and i can tell if even the smallest amount is in my food. 99% of the time, it just kills whatever for me. on REALLY rare occations i've been able to eat a really small amount (like a garnish on soup, but not the levels you get with pho) and be ok with it.
 
littlethingamajigs August 8, 2013
Totally agree. Its terrible. I haven't been able to pinpoint what it tastes like, except for very bitter. A sprinkle of cilantro can just destroy an eating experience for me - not only does it overpower everything else, but then i also have to pick through the dish really carefully to make sure I eat the least possible of those little leaves...
 
ChefJune August 8, 2013
Just for the record, I can't eat cilantro. And for me it's not about "like" or "dislike." For me and the folks I know in the same boat, this herb tastes like soap. I've been trying for years to like it, but frankly, IT doesn't like me. Soap is not an attractive flavor, no matter what the dish.
 
QueenSashy August 8, 2013
ChefJune, I am with you. I can eat any food but one - cilantro. It has been a no-go my entire life and not for the lack of trying. Actually, I tried soap once, and it tasted better than cilantro :)
 
HalfPint August 8, 2013
I think that a few sprigs of cilantro in a traditional banh mi is mandatory. It adds another layer of flavors that make it the 'banh mi' and not just another sandwich.
 
maryann T. August 8, 2013
i am with the root and stem contingent...yet in a good salsa verde i do not mind the leaves