Do you recommend butter? Or a vegetable shortening? Or both?

Tamara Dahling
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3 Comments

Lori T. May 24, 2019
If you want the same texture of cookie that the author intended, you will stick with the shortening called for in the recipe. There are subtle differences between butter, margarine and shortening which do make a difference in the final product. Shortening is 100% fat, butter and real margarine must be a minimum of 80% by law. However, many of what you think of as margarine is actually legally a spread, and will contain less. The balance left with butter is made of milk residues, water, and possibly salt. Margarine will be mostly water, and of course whatever vegetable fat was used, plus salt. Products made with shortening tend to be softer in texture than those made with butter or margarine. Shortening also melts at a higher temp than butter or margarine, so that affects how much your cookies will spread in baking and how thin or thick they end up being. This cookie is highly flavored with coffee and chocolate, so the butter taste would be lost entirely. So it's not really worth it to substitute in this recipe. Just use solid vegetable shortening. If you really must substitute, it makes better economic sense to go with a high quality margarine as well. Since you won't taste it, there's no point spending the money for butter.
 
Nancy May 24, 2019
Agree with Lori's science and analysis that if you use another fat, the cookies won't turn out exactly the way the writer made them or intended the recipe to produce.
However if for whatever reason (e.g., some of us prefer to avoid hydrogenated fats) you don't want to use shortening, you can substitute other fats.
I have had good results using butter, ghee and olive oil.
If butter, use 1.25 % the amount called for in the recipe to account for the different in fat percentage in the two. And the cookies will have more water.
Ghee and olive oil (any you have on hand, as the flavor goes nicely with chocolate) can be used 1:1 ratio.
Last, I haven't tried it but Michael Ruhlman a few years ago came out with a book suggesting many new ways to use schmaltz (rendered chicken fat) in cooking and baking. FYI, see:
https://www.amazon.com/Book-Schmaltz-Love-Song-Forgotten/dp/0316254088/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=schmaltz+cookbook&qid=1558723560&s=books&sr=1-1
 
Smaug May 23, 2019
I would assume that by "shortening" the author means Crisco, the actual meaning of the word is all but lost these days.
 
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