My grandma never used the word "duxelles," but that is, in essence, what she made, to stuff inside puff pastry purses every holiday. "Mushroom puffs!" we called them. These days, I use the spread for those, plus just about anything: stirred into scrambled eggs, spread on a grilled cheese, mixed into mayo for a sandwich, set out with a plate of crackers for a snack. —Emma Laperruque
1 1/3 cups
small yellow onion, diced (about 1 cup)
Salt and pepper, to taste
mushrooms, such as white button or baby bella, sliced
Heat 1 tablespoon butter in a skillet over medium heat. Add the onion, season with salt and pepper, and sauté until soft. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon butter, then the mushrooms. Sauté until beginning to crisp and brown and even stick to the bottom of the pan. Deglaze with the sherry and cook until the liquid reduces. Sprinkle with the flour and stick until incorporated. Turn off the heat. Let cool for a few minutes. Transfer to a food processor. Add the parsley. Pulse a few times until the mixture resembles paté.
Emma is the food editor at Food52. Before this, she worked a lot of odd jobs, all at the same time. Think: stir-frying noodles "on the fly," baking dozens of pastries at 3 a.m., reviewing restaurants, and writing articles about everything from how to use leftover mashed potatoes to the history of pies in North Carolina. Now she lives in Maplewood, New Jersey with her husband and their cat, Butter. Stay tuned every Tuesday for Emma's cooking column, Big Little Recipes, all about big flavor and little ingredient lists. And see what she's up to on Instagram at @emmalaperruque.