The Piglet2016 / First Round, 2016

Zahav vs. The Food Lab

Zahav

Michael Solomonov

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The Food Lab

J. Kenji López-Alt

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Judged by: Phyllis Grant

Phyllis Grant spent her twenties in New York City dancing at Juilliard and cooking at Bouley and Nobu, and her thirties having children, teaching yoga, and guiding women through childbirth. These days, she can be found in Berkeley, writing, developing recipes, and photographing, or online at Food52, Sunset Magazine, Oprah, Saveur, Food & Wine, and Real Simple. Her writing has been featured in several anthologies including Best Food Writing 2015. She is getting oh so close to releasing her first cookbook out into the world.

The Judgment

To J. Kenji López-Alt and Michael Solomonov:

I love cookbooks. I have stacks of them in my kitchen, my hallway, next to my bed. They are towering columns of comfort. They bring color and light to each room. I flip through them for inspiration. I’m writing one. But unless I’m making pastries, I don’t follow recipes. And my kids don’t either: For thirteen years, I have been teaching them the importance of playing in the kitchen. Tweaking, adjusting, rejiggering. Listening to their guts. 

Then The Piglet came along. 

My daughter thought it was unfair to compare your books. They’re too different, mom. It’s just not right. 

I couldn’t agree more. Cerebral, meticulous, scientific treatise on sous vide cooking and burgers and sticky buns versus Israeli food? 

And then I went into a tailspin trying to define what makes a good cookbook. 

My kids weren’t very helpful. That’s easy, said my son, a good cookbook has photos that make you want to lick the pages. He puts Aleppo pepper on everything and eats pickles for breakfast while my daughter is all about mug cakes and freakshakes. So, of course, from my daughter: Mom, a good cookbook has a nice balance of everything. Especially desserts. 

Unlike novels and memoirs, cookbooks are often judged by their looks. Here’s what I might have said about these two at first glance: 

The Food Lab has a serene and inviting cover. Almost 1000 pages. Your head will spin. You will need a martini. Or a sherpa. So. Many. Words. So much exciting science to dive into. So many awkwardly composed and poorly-lit photos screaming out for some natural light. 

Zahav is 373 pages of Israeli home cooking inspired by Michael Solomonov’s Philadelphia restaurant of the same name. It is filled with stories of tragedy and triumph and reconnecting with his Israeli heritage. It’s uncomfortably styled. Overly lit. Looks a bit nineties. 

But how could I possibly know if your books were good unless I cooked from them? Would I forgive some of these foibles? Or would they become more glaring?

We put colorful Post-its next to every single recipe we wanted to make. 

I was very strict. 

I didn’t let my son put Sriracha in your Caesar dressing, López-Alt. And Solomonov, no Nutella in your babka, even though we wanted to. 

No improvisation allowed.

I am proud to say that my kids and I managed to cook over 20 recipes from each of your books. 

Before I continue, I would like to lodge a formal complaint against you, J. Kenji López-Alt, for the overuse of the following words: AWESOME, ULTIMATE, BEST, PERFECT, FOOLPROOF, EASY. 

But here is why I forgive you:

You taught me how to spatchcock a chicken.

You explained why my scrambled eggs weep. I now add salt to the eggs 15 minutes before I cook them.  

You got me to throw three generations of egg-poaching technique out the window. We no longer add salt and vinegar to the boiling water and create a whirlpool with a butter knife. We now strain the loose whites away and slide the egg into the boiling water. No stray tentacles of whites. No murky acidic water. Just a tight white exterior hugging a just-firmed yolk. 

You introduced us to light and fluffy buttermilk pancakes, immersion blender mayonnaise, Peruvian-style jalapeño sauce, steak with red wine pan sauce (that my son is still talking about), 3-ingredient blue cheese dressing, cheesy Hasselback potato gratin, sticky buns (six batches, bitches).

Just yesterday, I was slicing cheese and buttering bread and my son said, Stop, I hope you’re doing that the Food Lab way. Because, thanks to you, regular old grilled cheese just won’t do. They now want melted cheddar inside and crunchy Parmesan outside.

Thank you for explaining everything to me. Wait. Except for one thing: Why did the sickly sweet orange cream cheese glaze for your sticky buns keep splitting?

Solomonov: Your first chapter in Zahav, “Tehina: The Secret Sauce,” should win a James Beard award. I got so caught up in your magic that I overnighted two jars of Soom, your favorite tehina, from Amazon. I wanted to make amba tehina, harissa tehina, black garlic tehina. 

And, dude, I will never buy hummus again. I will always do as you do. I will pulverize a head of garlic with lemon juice, pass it through a fine strainer, and slowly whisk in tehina, water, salt, and cumin until it resembles a shiny pourable icing and tastes like a savory, nutty mousse. I will store this gloriousness in my fridge and mix it with puréed chickpeas for hummus, eggplant for babaganoush. I will use it as a salad dressing base. I will place it on top, under, around, and in between meat and vegetables.

My friend Margi offered to help me test recipes. She took one look at The Food Lab and said: I don’t even know what I would do with this. But Zahav inspired her to host a Middle Eastern feast. Her main dish was your pargiyot (baby chicken) three ways with harissa, amba, and onion marinades. She and I agreed that on the page, they all looked and sounded quite different, but once grilled—while delicious—they all looked a similar greenish-orange and tasted virtually the same. 

I made your chocolate babka. Such a solid recipe all the way through to the end. And so fun for the kids. But I think it needs more salt. Maybe some brown butter?

We need to talk about the fried eggplant with tehina and pomegranate seeds: The recipe said to cook the ¾-inch rounds in ½-inch of shimmering oil, five minutes per side. I’ve never experienced slices of eggplant cooking in ten minutes and, sadly, by the time they were creamy and soft inside, they tasted like oily hockey pucks. They went out with the compost.

But thank you for your beautiful tehina cookies. I kept several batches in my freezer and ate them all while binge-watching the second season of Transparent. Did you know they’re even better with vanilla, a bit of salt, and rolled in sugar? And it helps to slightly undercook them. And you should try them with hazelnut butter. See? I tweak. 

I make a lamb pie with about 20 ingredients in the filling, so I was psyched for the simplicity of your beef pie. I loved adding that field of sesame seeds to the top that sinks down into the buttery pastry. But it was missing excitement (maybe 15 ingredients?). 

Until a month ago, if you’d looked in the back of my fridge, you would have found a jar of your pickled persimmons and dates with dried limes. Texture: mealy. Flavor: medicinal. I couldn’t even give them away.

I really thought your book would win. Zahav is more my kind of food: Hella flavor. Nothing precious. My biggest criticism is that there is too much emphasis on your personal journey and not enough attention given to the recipes. People have raved to me about your restaurant. What got lost in translation? What didn’t get onto the page? Why do too many of your dishes fall flat? 

There are some shots of you eating at home with your family. These are the meals that intrigue me. These are the stories I want to hear. The foods I want to taste. I want to sit at that table; I wish more of the book felt this way. But I’m not giving your cookbook away. This month, I’m going to make your shakshouka, Turkish coffee ice cream, twice-cooked eggplant, fluke crudo, coffee-braised brisket, lachuch, and borekas.

López-Alt, your book is as intimidating as shit. It is oddly structured and filled with so many details that often it’s hard to find the gems. But part of the joy I got from this book was discovering something new every time I flipped it open; and it was only because of the Piglet that I forced myself to excavate. I would like to thank you from the bottom of my heart for testing the fuck out of these recipes. I have never seen anything like it. 

And the winner is…

The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science

The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science

Get the Book

Do you Agree?

110 Comments

Leigh C. April 20, 2016
I do whatever Kenji tells me. He is a master. And I love Zahav, the restaurant. I also have the cookbook which I love to read. I am about to try the brisket recipe but the hummus is the best. And now I am a tehina fanatic, buying only certain brands. In the end, I don't think these books are really comparable because one is a recipe book that's focus is a very specific kind of cooking from a very specific restaurant. Food Lab is much more general and technique oriented. I think both books would be wonderful additions to a cookbook collection but for different reasons.
 
Amy Z. March 18, 2016
Hi Phyllis, Amy here from Soom. thanks for ordering and so glad you enjoyed using Soom cooking through ZAHAV. amazing thought about the James Beard nom... he got one! love your critiques and commentary. and your kids sound awesome. cheers!
 
Greenstuff March 17, 2016
I carried it home in my backpack (it barely fit--it's a small, cityish backback), I made myself a martini. And then I re-read this "You will need a martini. Or a sherpa." Ha! Who knew I needed both.
 
Phyllis G. April 25, 2016
oh my goodness i laughed out loud!
 
Chiara B. March 14, 2016
First of all i really enjoyed reading your review. I like Zahav a lot because since I own this cookbook I improved my hummus game a lot and since it is one of my fav food on earth, it was pretty life changing. I agree that the styling and even the size of the book could have been different though. Questions: did you freeze the tehina cookie dough or the cooked cookies? I am planning a large tea time and it would be extremely helpful to know! Thanks.
 
Phyllis G. April 18, 2016
chiara,
so sorry i didn't see these questions. i would recommend freezing the dough. but i froze them already baked and they were great too.
 
Rose L. March 12, 2016
My mentor Cecily Brownstone, who was food editor of Associated Press, taught me years ago never to be "a typewriter cook." She had to explain what that meant: It's someone who writes a recipe without testing it. I don't know if she was thinking 10 to 20 times but i'm sure she's smiling down from heaven.

This is an extraordinarily brilliant review--as brilliant as these two writers deserve. I have both books--love both of them--and would have had a real problem judging them against each other. Brava Phyllis.
 
Phyllis G. April 18, 2016
Thank you, Rose. This means so much to me. When I taught myself to cook 20 years ago, your book was my guide. I do hope to meet you someday.
 
Rose L. April 18, 2016
i'm sure it will happen and i sure hope so Phyllis!
 
Angie M. March 11, 2016
I totally agree! I have both books and love them for different reasons! However, Kenji is my hero!
 
Nikeisah March 11, 2016
Heard Kenji speak on The Freakonomics podcast for the book from the library. Yes it's a long extensive book but simple techniques and the science behind food can make an novice culinarian up their kitchen game!
 
Anne T. March 11, 2016
I have read Food Lab recipes on Serious Eats and have always found them too tiddly...your review inspired me to buy the book and learn more. Looking forward to your book Phyllis, will it by out by Christmas 2016?
 
Phyllis G. April 18, 2016
i don't know when my book is coming out. hopefully sometime in the next year or two. thank you for your support.
 
geneenb March 11, 2016
I loved this review and know why she is so successful at it. It made me want to buy her cookbook cause I know it's gonna be rad.
 
Elisa March 9, 2016
Great writing. And I agree 100%. Look forward to her cookbook .
 
Alex March 9, 2016
Now THAT'S a review!
 
MCWolfe March 6, 2016
You have gotten to the heart of my biggest complaint about recent cookbooks - nobody tests the recipes! I recently got a book by a local celeb chef that I had really looked forward to - love his restaurants and the book was gorgeous. I knew from the first recipe I tried that it was going to be a disaster and I wasn't wrong. If anyone had attempted the recipes as written even once they would have known how wrong they were. The Food Lab has already become one of my favorites because I've been reading Kenji's work since he worked for CI and I trust that everything he does has been tested and will work exactly as promised. And that Peruvian jalapeño sauce alone is worth the price of the book - seriously, we put it on everything!
 
Alana K. March 4, 2016
This is the best review I've ever read. Not only do I want to hug the crap out of Phyllis, Dash, and Bella, but I also feel the need to hop on Amazon rn and spend the next few days doing nothing but learning all the things from The Food Lab. Thank you for this.
 
Thea March 4, 2016
I loved this review! You're so right about the abysmal photography in the Food Lab. Still, the recipes and techniques are so spot-on. I love geek cooking.
 
Rhonda35 March 3, 2016
Enjoyed this review so much I read it three times.
 
Jodi March 3, 2016
Best review I have ever read. Love Phyllis Grant and Dash and Bella. Also LOVE The Food Lab and KL-Alt. That book is amazing. It's like going to cooking school for 35 bucks. And yes, I will try Zahav.
 
Morningside H. March 3, 2016
Phyllis, this is a stellar review. I loved reading it! You really went for it. Thanks for all the effort you and your kids put into testing these recipes. I own the Food Lab already but was on the fence about Zahav. I think I will pass on that one but I do want to say that his restaurant in Philadelphia is absolutely worth a detour. I had an amazing meal there. I love your blog/ instagram feed and look forward to reading your cookbook when it's available.
 
sara_ann March 3, 2016
Great review. I own Zahav and enjoy cooking from it. I haven't picked up Food Lab but like his column.
 
noons March 3, 2016
Great reviews! This is what Piglet is all about. But I loved my persimmon pickles.
 
JK March 2, 2016
This reads like a twitter feed.
 
Lisa W. March 2, 2016
Oh man, I love The Food Lab/Serious Eats blog! It's a big read but well worth it. And can we talk about this writer and her cool family??? She had me in the first sentence. When can we read Phillis Grant's cookbook!?
 
Teresa P. March 2, 2016
Great review. I'm also sold on making a simple grilled cheese the Lopez-Alt way. It pairs well with the cream of broccoli soup too. ?
 
Jim D. March 2, 2016
Lopez-Alt's rule for sausage (1.5-2% salt by weight) is worth the price of the book. It also works for meatloaf, meat balls, and burgers; keep them tight, nut ground meat crumbly.
 
Jim D. March 2, 2016
keeps not keep, nut should be not
 
Nancy M. March 2, 2016
Excellent review - "Everything you want to know about these two cookbooks before deciding whether or not to buy them". And it's well-written and engaging! BRAVO!
 
Talia March 2, 2016
Yes, this is what we are looking for in a cookbook competition judgement! Thoughtful, insightful, entertaining and oh yeah, useful. Here's hoping the tides have turned.
 
Annabelle March 2, 2016
Omg, those persimmon pickles. They really were so bad!
 
Sherrie March 2, 2016
Wished for and received The Food Lab for Christmas-alleluia! For the novice to the accomplished cook this book is a must have!
 
3jamigos March 2, 2016
Yay! A review worthy of the Piglet. Luckily I have the Food Lab which until now has been sitting on a shelf. This review is the "push" I needed to tackle it.
 
Olia H. March 2, 2016
Ace review and Im off to buy both books!
 
LRSZ March 2, 2016
Olia---the review of Mamushka was maddening: fun writing, sure. But in terms of content I felt let down; I loved your recipes and I think they're winners, all of them! I wish that Phyllis Grant had gotten to tackle Mamushka---this is the only well handled review so far and I think she would have done your book justice. I bet I've made 15 of the recipes from Mamushka (quite a few have become staples in our home)--and given the book to my mother, mother-in-law, and a couple of girlfriends. If it were up to me, you'd win the Piglet. Thanks for a lovely book.
 
Lisa Z. March 2, 2016
Kick ass review. Now I'm looking for more of your writing, Phyllis!!
 
jamcook March 2, 2016
Swell elegant writing, and an admirable dedication to the task at hand.
Also it turned out to be, turned in to , a great family project.
Thank you Phyllis for one of the best , most thorough piglet reviews ever.
 
issybee March 2, 2016
Great review! Already gave two copies of the Food Lab as gifts to accolades. But now I want to also buy Zahav and give it a try.
 
margiyoung March 2, 2016
Perfect piglet.

 
Bevi March 1, 2016
Terrific review! Thanks for the time and effort Phyllis!
 
Joan O. March 1, 2016
Loved, loved, loved this review. I loved the reviewer's writing style. I love that she tried so many recipes from each book and that she got her children involved. I just recently had a chance to check out the Food Lab cookbook from my local library. I wanted to see what all the hoopla about this book was. I wasn't impressed but after this review I might need to give it a second glance.
 
GigiB March 1, 2016
Stellar review. The first truly great review of 2016.
 
Pastraminator March 1, 2016
One of my favorite cookbooks is The Best Recipe by Cooks Illustrated. I love to read the method of experimentation and what they wanted to accomplish. I think Foodlab is in the same vein. Where The Best Recipe focus's on dishes the Foodlab focus is more on Item and/or preparation. I don't find the reading daunting at all but interesting. I also have it digital form, so it's easier to root around in. I greatly appreciate this review, i own both books and it's nice to get someones thoughtful review.
 
I love this review! And now I want The Food Lab stat!
 
cookerman45 March 1, 2016
Fantastic, thank you for your insight. Food lab is life changing..I now gotta have Zahav!
 
cheesypennies March 1, 2016
I've been avoiding The Food Lab because..."intimidating as shit" is right. This review is the opposite. Thanks to you and your kids for paving the way.
 
Bek W. March 1, 2016
The first awesome review of the piglet! The others have fallen a little flat. Loved this though. So keen to buy kenji's book!
 
navahfrost March 1, 2016
Now THAT's a review.
 
witloof March 1, 2016
Now THIS is what I call a worthy Piglet review, although I find Kenji insufferable and annoying.
 
SNNYC March 1, 2016
I am happy and relieved that these two books had this reviewer! Now this is a great judgment!
 
Nomnomnom March 1, 2016
What a great review. But thanks a lot :/ Now I want to have both of these books!
 
Lisa March 1, 2016
Best review in piglet history! Funny, personal, great writing, entertaining and also so very thorough. Thank you! I too find food lab intimidating but will go back and look again. Great review!
 
LeBec F. March 1, 2016
phyllis, you are one TERRIFIC writer!! You are SO perfect for this reviewing job-- your text is enjoyable, funny and informative, and right on point. Your ability to focus on the important aspects of the books- is just so admirable. Gosh I hope we will see LOTS more of your writing on 52 and beyond. AICP really should recruit you to give cookbook workshops at their annual conventions.We need you, Phyllis, so thank you!
 
Melina H. March 1, 2016
wahooooo! now THIS is what i call a review. thank you phyllis for being on top of it in your customary no-bullshit way. i also love that the kiddies had a say and part in making the contenders! xxx
 
Kate March 1, 2016
Such a great review!
 
Corissa March 1, 2016
Food Lab changed my life. Before I make something from a recipe I always check to make sure Kenji hasn't found a better way to do it perfectly. He puts so much testing into food. If you haven't tried his apple pie and read about how he tried pretty much every type of apple you should look it up! Btw. Golden delicious really does make the best pie.
 
LeBec F. March 1, 2016
I also am a big admirer of Kenji's work. But there is one caveat that people need to keep in mind. He has been known to, and continues to, experiment and CHANGE HIS MIND on given techniques and dishes. Technology has yet to find a solution to this dilemma, but, as his work is usually web- accessible, it's a good idea to check for any more recent posts about any of his given advice- before you follow him.
 
Cindy March 1, 2016
Totally want The Food Lab now. Apparently the intimidation of its size and words is balanced well tested recopies that work. Good review!
 
Cindy March 1, 2016
...typo :o) ..."balanced by well tested recipes that work"
 
Susige March 1, 2016
Where is the "LOVE" button? One of the best cookbook reviews I think I've ever read -I thoroughly enjoyed it! Kudos to Phyllis! Now I'm off to order The Food Lab to add to my ever growing cookbook collection.
 
raisingkane March 1, 2016
Great review!
 
Pastraminator March 1, 2016
It' funny, i was reading the eggplant section in Food Lab which makes me revise every Eggplant recipe to make my own, Microwave, who knew? Great review. I have both books, thank you for your insight!
 
Elizabeth D. March 1, 2016
I am a long-time fan of Lopez-Alt and am so happy The Food Lab won this round. I do not have Zahav, but have made a few Solomonov's recipes that were published in Saveur. They were very tasty, but given a choice, I will choose Lopez-Alt 9 our of 10 times.
 
Susan W. March 1, 2016
I adore Food Lab. It's not the prettiest cookbook I own by any means (and I have a LOT) but the recipes are magnificent...even if I already knew how to spatchcock a chicken (thank you Jacques Pepin).
 
Zoe R. March 1, 2016
OK, now that's a review!! Love it!
 
QueenSashy March 1, 2016
I know that the whole point of Piglet is to have a diverse set of reviewers, but can we please, please, please, keep Phyllis forever. Please. I too had to fight the impulse to close the covers due to Kenji's photography, but hey, I have not enjoyed (and loved) a cookbook the way I enjoyed The Food Lab in a looooong time. It offers the kind of kitchen wisdom that gives one confidence, that makes one understand kitchen failures and successes, and helps one grow and be a better cook.
 
LeBec F. March 1, 2016
YES,YES,YES! Phyllis Grant forever!
 
cookinginvictoria March 1, 2016
This may be my favorite Piglet review ever! Thank you, Phyllis, for such a masterful, thoughtful, exhaustive and, yes, funny review. I have not had a chance to browse Zahav yet, but I concur with your high opinion about the Food Lab. I have learned so much from Kenji's book, and I have only cracked the surface. As someone who is always encouraging my own child to cook, I love how you included your kids in the testing process. Brava! :)
 
Nancy R. March 1, 2016
My goodness! Beautifully done!
 
Kelly March 1, 2016
This is my favorite Piglet review and will be a hard one to top. Great job! I just received the Food Lab as an early wedding gift. His lasagna recipe was incredibly satisfying. I not only enjoy cooking from cookbooks, but also thoroughly enjoy reading them! The Food Lab will have me reading and learning for years to come.
 
Valhalla March 1, 2016
I can envision Phyllis dropping the mike after this review--kudos!
I still love Zahav--oh, the beets tehina--but I wholeheartedly agree about those persimmon pickles!
 
Bunnee B. March 1, 2016
I, too, am a Kenji groupie and have been for years. All those hints and techniques I printed out and saved over the years are now in one splendid volume. I use it all the time and if anyone ever asks a question about cooking, my standard response is "let's see what Kenji says." Excellent review.
 
shahnnen E. March 1, 2016
Phyllis for President! I have both of these and love them both. Truly, and because the Piglet is so subjective, I think this review really nails the spirit and intention of the Piglet.
All is right in Food52 again.
 
James F. March 1, 2016
I've been cooking a lot from both books. Like them both. Interesting review to read. I haven't found any of the recipes from Zahav to be flat. And the hummus I've made a few times and find it pretty foolproof - as opposed to the Jerusalem cookbook version which always turns out like cement for me, no matter what I do. I must be the only person who has that problem with that hummus recipe, don't know why.
Some winners from Zahav, the challah, the twice-cooked eggplant, the freekeh kibbe,and the Persian rice. Food Lab is full of goodness and I keep discovering more. I second the ricotta recipe - great quick use of extra milk in the fridge!
 
Victoria C. March 1, 2016
And if you use the vinegar, you don't have to have buttermilk hanging around.
 
Sauertea March 1, 2016
Wow this is an amazing review! You were able to incorporate the humor and the angst obviously associated with the task in such a beautiful way, while at the same time taking a very serious approach to the evaluation of the recipes. Involving your kids was a great idea. If these recipes can tantalize a child's palate then I can only imagine what they will do for an adult. You have made me want to buy both books.
 
Samantha W. March 1, 2016
::slow clap:: Such an excellent review.
 
Marian B. March 1, 2016
Phyllis, this is such an excellent review! Also in awe of you for testing all those recipes. xx
 
Foodporncess March 1, 2016
I have both and I am in 100% agreement. I did go in with Kenji as a favorite as I've followed him for years and am firmly a Kenji groupie. I can't tell you how many of his recipes I've cooked over the years at this point, but I can think of only one that didn't wow me (and truth be told, my husband made it...). I'm still dying to go to Zahav for a meal, but every recipe I've tried out of the book has fallen flat, including the tahina. I find the recipe from Ottolenghi's Jerusalem easier and better tasting. Still, Zahav is gorgeous and fun to read as a narrative. But yes, 100%, the Food Lab. To me, it's the new "must own" cookbook for anyone. I used to think that about the Joy of Cooking, but I can't remember the last time I picked that book up.
 
Shalini March 1, 2016
Lovely writing and review. Congratulations to you for making at least 20 pages of recipes from each book, and a hearty congratulations to your children! Great teamwork, kids! They obviously have great taste and opinions! What a pleasure to read, and what dedicated testing. I am glad you found some indispensable techniques in the Food Lab book. Now I have to check it out! The hummous and babaganoush base also intrigues.
 
LittleFrier March 1, 2016
20 recipes from each. Bravo! Thank you for immersing yourself in the task and for one of best reviews of any Piglet thus far IMO.
 
Jennifer P. March 1, 2016
Oh, how I wish you could judge every round, Phyllis. Truly the most enjoyable read of a Piglet face-off (um, cook-off, recipe-off...?). Your review was so well thought out, and brought the art of the review down to an honest, relatable level for cooks and cookbook enthusiasts of all ages, and abilities. xo-Jennie
 
hardlikearmour March 1, 2016
Phyllis: I like your style, lady! Best review this piglet. I hope someone week be as thorough and thoughtful with your book when it comes out.
 
hardlikearmour March 1, 2016
ack. "will" not "week". That's what I get for posting with my phone :-)
 
D.J. March 1, 2016
Love Phyllis' work and this review. Like many others, as a proud owner of both books, this is a great perspective on them.
 
MRinSF March 1, 2016
A superb review! I went in inclined toward Zahav and came out in complete agreement with the conclusion Phyllis reached. Though I have and like both books, I haven't used either much yet. This reviewer has cooked extensively from both (as she should! 20 recipes between two books is a far cry from the 2 recipes per book many of the reviewers tend toward, especially those who are not particularly enthusiastic cooks. I really do wish the organizers would ask each reviewer to make at least 5 recipes per book) and therefore can share a real understanding of the recipes and each author's perspective. Thorough, smart, entertaining, and actually about cooking from the book itself: Piglet organizers, this is what I want to see.
 
LJ S. March 1, 2016
A great review… The Food Lab is on order as a result.
 
Matilda L. March 1, 2016
Awesome review! This review was hotly anticipated by me, since I have both of these cookbooks. I agree with this review, much as I like Zahav. Even as a longtime fan of Kenji Lopez-Alt's, it's a little more difficult to access because of the structure of the content (those photos don't do justice to the meticulous content, either), but I appreciate the exhaustive throughness and attention to detail. And Phyllis, thanks for great review, the heads up on what not to cook from Zahav and the riffs on those amazing tahini cookies!
 
Selkie March 1, 2016
Now THIS is a Piglet review! Fun AND detailed AND passionate AND useful. Thank you so much!
 
aixpat March 1, 2016
Love this review, very thorough and specific, and I couldn't agree more with the verdict. Kenji has made so many people better cooks!
 
luvcookbooks March 1, 2016
Food lab is on my list now! My birthday isn't til September, tho.
 
Victoria C. March 1, 2016
I have Food Lab, I LOVE Food Lab. It turns out Kenji's ricotta is a snap to make when you need it, when you want it. (Even easier than Jennifer Perillo's wonderful Creamy Homemade Ricotta on Food52.) I know, I know, Nancy Harmon Jenkins (your original The Mediterranean Diet Cookbook is in my kitchen with my favs), it's not REAL ricotta, but it's what I like for what I make. After I was struck dumb at its ease the first time I made it, the deliciousness of this ricotta astounded me. Next, I thought my egg poaching skills were masterly until I tried Kenji's method of straining them through a small strainer, which is easy since I keep one in a cup on my windowsill. I now strain my eggs before I fry them too. A neat trick. I can go on and on and on, and I have hardly tapped the potential in this book. With regard to Zahav, I was anxious to get my hands on it, but, frankly, when I perused it, aside from the Hummus Tahina, Lamb Shoulder, and the Persian rice, I wasn't moved to buy it. The marvelous Food Lab, which sits on top of, not in, my bookcase, won, but since Ms. Grant is keeping Zahav to cook from, and it sounds like the Hummus recipe alone is worth the price of the book, I will have to rethink my decision about not buying it. Thanks for such an exhaustive review of both books! Oh, and could you please give us your lamb pie recipe?
 
ariel A. March 1, 2016
Man oh man, what an intense pairing. I listened to the Eye of the Tiger while reading this; it set the tone perfectly. Great review!
 
Mia C. March 1, 2016
YES
 
Mihaela P. March 1, 2016
Oh yeah!
 
Meghan March 1, 2016
This is such a great, thorough review that shows Phyllis carefully considered--and cooked a lot from--each book! Thanks! Well done!
 
ChefJune March 1, 2016
What a thorough review. I don't own either of these books, but thanks to you, Phyllis, I feel I know enough about them to make a reasonable purchasing decision. I have just one question for you.... why do you find $h!t intimidating?
 
Sheila March 1, 2016
When I saw this pairing, I wondered how one could ever craft a fair comparison but Phyllis Grant has done that and more. Great review!
 
sexyLAMBCHOPx March 1, 2016
Great review!
 
Brain H. March 1, 2016
What a PIglet review should be. Thank you, Phyllis Grant, for getting the job done right!
 
Dana V. March 1, 2016
I found this review to be, well, almost thrilling! It's everything I would want in a cookbook review: honest and transparent (semi-pun) and thorough, with just the right amount of geekiness and bad-assery. Real Life, through and through. Deep bows to you, dear Phyllis and Co. I can't wait for your own cookbook!
 
Isabelle J. March 1, 2016
Was exactly what I was thinking.
 
Mihaela P. March 1, 2016
Yeah!
 
LauriL March 1, 2016
Well said Dana! Phyllis nailed it....with the help of her urchins!
 
LLStone March 1, 2016
Well said - I agree. She's awesome, and she knows what she's supposed to do! It was an outstanding review. Or Out-f'ing-standing review in dashandbella's world.
 
Diana March 1, 2016
Wow, great review. Up to now, I've been hesitating as to whether I should add Food Lab to my collection for the very reasons you stated. I just bought it, based on your review. I do love Piglet!!!!
 
Diana March 1, 2016
I just had to come back to say your review prompted me to look you up and have been reading your blog (and crying) while enjoying your thoughts. You have a gift, can't wait to read your book.
 
Michael March 1, 2016
Crazy that two cookbooks like this would be compared, but that's what makes this contest so fun every year. I agree with this decision if only because The Food Lab has changed the way I do regular things on a daily basis.
 
Joe March 1, 2016
In the 3 years that I've been following the Piglet, this was in all likelihood one of the toughest choices. Superbly done, Phyllis Grant: well cooked, well written, well explained. THIS is what the Piglet should be.