Soft Scrambled Eggs

- Merrill

First, a confession: I used to hate scrambled eggs. They reminded me of sulfur-infused cardboard. Or insulation. To be fair, my mother's eggs were never dry, but I was so traumatized by the scrambled eggs I encountered everywhere else that I refused to eat even hers growing up.

Years later, I learned how to make creamy, soft scrambled eggs, and now I crave them regularly. The recipe below hinges on a toned-down version of a technique I learned in cooking school involving the use of a double-boiler and whisking the eggs non-stop for about 40 minutes, which I promise I won't subject you to here. But low and slow is the key, as is constant stirring and scraping. I'm usually not a proponent of non-stick cookware (too easily scratched), but in this case, I'm a fan.

Good, free-range eggs are also paramount, for both taste and safety reasons, and they require very little embellishment: I add a small lump of mascarpone or creme fraiche, a dribble of cream, or whatever is around (not milk, which makes them tough), a dash of salt and pepper and nothing else. But I do believe that excellent scrambled eggs need to be cooked in butter -- even in a non-stick pan -- and while we're on the subject, salted butter is my preference. The recipe makes enough for two people, but I usually get it all to myself, as I'm married to someone who is egg averse -- what's more, leftovers can be gently reheated in the microwave, and they still won't remind you of cardboard!

Soft Scrambled Eggs

Serves 2

• 4 large free-range or organic eggs
• 1 tablespoons mascarpone, creme fraiche, cream, what have you
• Dash of salt and freshly ground pepper, plus more for serving
• Knob of salted butter