Michael Ruhlman's Rosemary-Brined, Buttermilk Fried Chicken

By • October 10, 2012 • 30 Comments


Author Notes: This is a fried chicken recipe you just can't mess up. Michael Ruhlman uses a speedy rosemary lemon brine, which is key to keeping the chicken flavorful and moist. Because of this (and its ultra-crispy buttermilk battered crust), the chicken will hold well in a warm oven for a couple hours before guests arrive, giving you plenty of time to wipe down the stove, shower, and pour yourself an early glass of wine. Adapted very slightly from Ruhlman's Twenty (Chronicle Books, 2011)Genius Recipes

Serves 6 to 8

Brine

  • 1 small onion, thinly sliced
  • 4 garlic cloves, smashed with the flat side of a knife
  • 1 teaspoon vegetable oil
  • 3 tablespoons kosher salt
  • 5 or 6 branches rosemary, each 4 to 5 inches long
  • 4 1/2 cups water
  • 1 lemon, halved

Fried Chicken

  • 8 chicken legs, drumsticks and thighs separated
  • 8 chicken wings, wing tips removed
  • 3 cups all-purpose flour
  • 3 tablespoons freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 tablespoons paprika
  • 2 tablespoons fine sea salt
  • 2 teaspoons cayenne pepper
  • 2 tablespoons baking powder
  • 2 cups buttermilk
  • Neutral, high-heat oil for deep-frying (like canola)
  1. Make the brine: In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, sauté the onion and garlic in the oil until translucent, 3 to 4 minutes. Add kosher salt after the onion and garlic have cooked for 30 seconds or so. Add the rosemary and cook to heat it, 30 seconds or so. Add the water and lemon, squeezing the juice into the water and removing any seeds. Bring the water to a simmer, stirring to dissolve the salt. Remove from the heat and allow the brine to cool. Refrigerate until chilled. To speed this process up, chill over an ice bath, stirring.
  2. Place all the chicken pieces in a large, sturdy plastic bag. Set the bag in a large bowl for support. Pour the cooled brine and aromatics into the bag. Seal the bag so that you remove as much air as possible and the chicken is submerged in the brine. Refrigerate for 8 to 24 hours, agitating the bag occasionally to redistribute the brine and the chicken.
  3. Remove the chicken from the brine, rinse under cold water, pat dry, and set on a rack or on paper towels. The chicken can be refrigerated for up to 3 days before you cook it, or it can be cooked immediately. Ideally, it should be refrigerated, uncovered, for a day to dry out the skin, but usually I can't wait to start cooking it.
  4. Combine the flour, black pepper, paprika, sea salt, cayenne, and baking powder in a bowl. Whisk to distribute the ingredients. Divide this mixture between two bowls.
  5. Pour the buttermilk into a third bowl. Set a rack on a baking sheet/tray. Dredge the chicken in the flour, shake off the excess, and set the dusted pieces on the rack. Dip the pieces in the buttermilk, then dredge them aggressively in the second bowl of flour and return them to the rack.
  6. Heat oil in a pan for deep-frying to 350°F/180°C. Add as many chicken pieces as you can without crowding the pan. Cook the chicken, turning the pieces occasionally, until they are cooked through, 12 to 15 minutes depending on their size. Remove to a clean rack and allow them to rest for 5 to 10 minutes before serving. For legs, thighs and wings, Ruhlman says, "I like to finish them in a 250˚ F/120˚ C. oven, to make sure they’re super tender and to further crisp them. This lets me serve it whenever I want, no last minute frying if guests are invited."

Comments (30) Questions (1)

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3 days ago Pittsburgher

If you use self-rising flour, be sure to remember that it contains salt as well as baking powder, and adjust salt accordingly. My Granny's-recipe fried chicken has an obscene amount of salt but it's always amazing. Just b sure to take your BP Meds if that's an issue for you or guests!!!

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20 days ago Christine Geery

This may be a silly question, but how deep should the oil be in the pan?

Miglore

20 days ago Kristen Miglore

Kristen is the Senior Editor of Food52

The oil should be deep enough to fully submerge the chicken (but remember once the chicken is added, the oil level will go up). For a general refresher on deep-frying, check out this article: http://food52.com/blog...

Hope you like it!

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about 1 month ago Banana#5

Just made this for my family and they loved it!

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3 months ago beegoode

This was as good as promised. Wow!!

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5 months ago Bethcooks

Amazing. Followed this recipe to the letter and my family was so happy! Thank you!!

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6 months ago Ambitious

This was AMAZING! I made it for some guests and they were in heaven!

Since I made about 5 pounds of chicken, I didn't have time to cook all of them before my guests came. So I crisped them and finished it in the oven at 200 degrees for 2 hours. It was perfection - it made the skin crunchy and so so so delicious. I paired it with biscuits, bacon brussels sprouts, coleslaw and a simple salad. Thank you again for this wonderful recipe.

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7 months ago mamajo

I tried this recipe as a roasted chicken for Sunday dinner and we thought it was the BEST chicken we had EVER eaten! Amazing flavor and melt-in-your-mouth texture. I used the brining recipe,left in frig overnight and after putting the chicken in a roasting pan,peppered it and stuffed the inside with the rosemary and onion from the brine. Cooked at 425 degrees until reached temp of 160 in thigh. Let rest and had sides of red garlic potatoes and creamed fresh peas. I might have time to fry it next time but I don't think anyone will complain if I roast it again. Love the brine recipe. I am actually going to do my Thanksgiving turkey this way!!!

Affen

7 months ago Scarla

Made this yesterday, and my family all agreed it was the best fried chicken ever. The brining gave the meat so much flavor and a silky texture, and the crust was shatteringly crisp -- I had to restrain myself from picking it off the remaining pieces! Perfect with mashed potatoes, cole slaw and cat's head biscuits. This recipe's a keeper! Empirical proof of how good it is: my picky 14 year old requested I pack the leftovers for lunch today!

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7 months ago 4376ab

This truly is a great recipe. Michael Ruhlman does it again - follow the directions and you will be in chicken heaven. The only misprint is "serves 6-8". HA! More like 2-3 maybe. Expect some wrasseling to see who gets the last piece.

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7 months ago J Dave

The SO and I made this yesterday for Sunday dinner....it is truly one of the best chicken recipes that i have ever made. And I just had the little bit of leftovers for lunch today and I think it was just as good. I highly recommend this recipe!

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7 months ago beurrista

fried chicken is one of my husband's favorite foods. in fact, he's picking some up from popeye's as we speak... i can't wait to try this recipe for him!

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7 months ago GordonW

Does the coating need any salt?

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7 months ago Pittsburgher

Step #4 references adding sea salt with flour and spices, but I don't see a quantity listed.

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7 months ago GordonW

I looked up another copy of Ruhlman's recipe and it called for 2T fine sea salt. Looks like a simple typo.

Miglore

7 months ago Kristen Miglore

Kristen is the Senior Editor of Food52

GordonW -- thank you! Yes, a typo -- should be fixed now.

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7 months ago GordonW

np :)

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7 months ago Randi

This sounds so delicious. Is it possible to make this gluten-free? I am new to gluten-free cooking, and I don't know much about substitutions yet.

Miglore

7 months ago Kristen Miglore

Kristen is the Senior Editor of Food52

I'm sorry, I don't have experience frying chicken with gluten-free flours (although I've dredged other things in gf rice flour or cornmeal and they fry up nice and crispy). This blend of rice flour and potato or tapioca starch looks promising: http://simplygluten-free...

You might also want to try asking the Food52 Hotline: http://food52.com/hotline

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7 months ago Pat in SoCal

Why do you need two bowls of the flour mixture?

Miglore

7 months ago Kristen Miglore

Kristen is the Senior Editor of Food52

You could keep all the flour mixture in one big bowl if you like, as long as you dredge in flour, then buttermilk, then flour again. Two bowls helps keep you organized, and keeps the flour cleaner.

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2 months ago LE BEC FIN

i was hoping someone would mention this! and since you're only needing to dissolve a few T of salt, you could just boil 1/2-1 cup water to dissolve the salt. And then add very cold water for the rest.(What was he THINKing?!!!)

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7 months ago Aimless

Rather than ice bath to chill the brine, I suppose one could add half the water, bring to simmer as directed, then add the balance of the water in the form of ice...always looking for easy and simple.

Miglore

7 months ago Kristen Miglore

Kristen is the Senior Editor of Food52

Yes, you could! Smart thinking.

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7 months ago suzsuz

I have made this recipe with one change. Rather than cook completely in the oil, I fry the chicken for about four to five minutes and finish it in a 350 degree oven for thirty minutes or until cooked through. By doing so I don't have to manage the oil temperature for as long.

Miglore

7 months ago Kristen Miglore

Kristen is the Senior Editor of Food52

Great tip.

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2 months ago LE BEC FIN

suz, i am sooo happy to hear of that successful technique. I'm DOIN' it! p.s. do you or anyone know why he's using the bak powder? since the buttermilk is just a coating agent, i can't imagine it has to do with that. maybe it makes the flour stay crisp after frying?

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20 days ago Stacy H

Baking Powder makes the coating crispy. If you fry chicken with just all purpose flour, it will be hard but not really crispy/crunchy like it should be. You could also use self-rising flour, which already has the baking powder added (not as much as the recipe calls for though). It took me many bad batches of fried chicken and many hours of research on the internet to figure this out. The Ad Hoc fried chicken recipe (and many other fried chicken recipes) says AP flour, but I always add baking powder now that I figured out why it always tasted off and not as crispy as fast food fried chicken. Hope this saved you hours of research!

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20 days ago LE BEC FIN

stacy, your research will def be useful when I make other fried foods,so thank you very much. But I just was not impressed w/ the flavor of this chicken and won't be making it again.

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7 months ago sdebrango

Suzanne is a trusted source on General Cooking.

This really looks and sounds delicious, I am always looking a fried chicken recipe that produces a flavorful chicken with a crisp crust, Going to make this definitely.