James' Tried-and-True Sponge Bagels

Directions

1. Make the sponge: The night before you plan to make the bagels, combine the sponge ingredients in a bowl (I just use the bowl of my mixer). Cover and let stand for at least six hours, but preferably more like 10 hours.
2. Prepare the dough: Add salt, honey, malt syrup, and flour to the sponge, in that order. Using the dough hook of the mixer, mix the dough for around 10 minutes. It should be smooth and not sticky.
3. Remove the dough from the bowl and place on your work surface, covered with a towel, for around 10 minutes. While the dough rests, place a wok on the stove and fill with water. My wok holds 3 litres, but yours may vary—measure the water so you know how much baking soda and honey to add. Heat the oven to 220° C (450° F).
4. When the dough has rested, cut into approximately 12 pieces of 115 grams (4 ounces) each. Using your cupped hands, roll the dough into smooth balls, then cover with a towel again to rest for another 10 minutes or so. Now is a good time to start to bring the water in the wok to the simmering point.
5. Flatten each ball of dough with the palm of your hand and then poke a hole in the center with your thumb. Twirl the dough around your finger to widen the hole and smooth the dough a bit. Place the bagel-shaped dough on the work surface to rest again, flipping after about 10 minutes.
6. Boil the bagels: When the bagels begin to look a bit plump and puffy, they are ready to boil. This may take only 5 minutes, but depending on the temperature of your kitchen, it could take longer. Add the baking soda (1 teaspoon per liter) and honey (about 2 teaspoons per liter) to the water, and then simmer a few bagels at a time for one minute before flipping them to simmer the other side. If they do not float soon after hitting the water, they need more time to rise—if you're not sure of your dough, start this process with just one bagel.
7. Remove the bagels from the water and place on a baking sheet lined with baking paper. When they are all boiled, brush them with the egg wash followed by the bagel topping. (The bagel topping is completely optional, and can be tailored to your preferences.) Flip the bagels over and brush with egg and sprinkle the other side. (Again, this is optional, but why would you put your toppings on only one side??)
8. Bake the Bagels: Place the tray in the oven and bake for 12 to 13 minutes, until golden brown, flipping them about halfway through. Resist the urge to eat one immediately, since they benefit from a bit of cooling. Once cool, they can be sliced and frozen if you cannot finish them all in one go.
9. My favorite bagel topping consists of: • 4 teaspoons sesame seeds • 2 tablespoons poppy seeds • 4 teaspoons black sesame seeds • 2 tablespoons onion flakes • 1 teaspoon kosher or coarse sea salt • 1/2 teaspoon onion powder • 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder Mix them together and sprinkle on the bagels before baking. Any leftover mix can be saved and used on the next batch.