Should coleslaw include mayonnaise? Some folks swear by a vinegar-based slaw, while others prefer something creamier. In this recipe, we found the middle ground, with a restrained amount of mayo, plus tangy Greek yogurt and tangier cider vinegar. (Note: Any fat content works for the yogurt, but whole-milk or two-percent are preferable. And other vinegars, like rice or white wine, can be swapped in.)
Beyond the dressing, the biggest challenge with coleslaw is that the longer it sits, the soggier it gets. To fix this, we season the sliced vegetables with salt and sugar in advance. After hanging out for about an hour, the excess moisture gets squeezed out, yielding a coleslaw that can be made ahead of time—a few hours, even days—without becoming soggy.
The cabbage variety is flexible. A mixture of red and green brings nice color contrast, but you can certainly use savoy or napa, or a mix. We also added some grated carrots—a classic addition that brings along subtle sweetness and bright color. (Just avoid pre-shredded vegetables, which are duller in texture and flavor.)
While coleslaw is often meant as a cooling side—say, next to pulled pork or Nashville hot chicken—a little hot sauce and mustard add a welcome tingle of heat. Likewise, celery seeds and the Middle Eastern spice blend za’atar add woodsy, herbal, nutty notes, which you might not be able to pinpoint, but you’d miss them if they weren’t there.
If you’re looking for cornbread to go with, check out the recipe for Our Best Cornbread. —Josh Cohen
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