It goes without saying that the most important ingredient in chicken salad is the chicken. But what about white versus dark meat? We did a taste test to find out: chicken breasts poached in salted water (a popular pick in recipes), next to chicken thighs roasted in the oven. Initially, the chef in me was rooting for the underdog—but most of our taste testers, including myself, preferred chicken breasts. White meat does a way better job of absorbing the dressing.
Beyond this, we experimented with different combinations of nuts, dried fruit, fresh fruit, cubed avocado, crumbled bacon… But in the end, we skipped most of these and kept it simple: thinly sliced scallions, diced celery, tarragon, freshly squeezed lemon juice, and a pinch of smoked paprika. This balance of flavors is acidic from the lemon, earthy, and herbaceous. In other words, utterly enjoyable, enhancing the chicken without overshadowing it.
When it comes to technique, we’re all for shredding, versus cubing, the chicken. The torn, irregular pieces better absorb the dressing (and, in turn, better absorb all the flavors). Make sure you let the poached chicken chill completely before shredding it—this helps prevent moisture loss.
Of course, when it comes to add-ins, you should get creative. Feel free to substitute your favorite fresh herbs for the scallion and tarragon, and try experimenting with different dry spices in place of the smoked paprika. Just keep the ratio of chicken to mayo to lemon juice a constant and you’re guaranteed to end up with a chicken salad that you love. —Josh Cohen
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