Gnocchi Ripieni with Mushrooms, Parmesan & Thyme

Directions

1. Prepare the potatoes
   
   Scrub and submerge the potatoes in a pot of well-salted cold water. Bring to a boil and cook until the potatoes are tender and easily pierced with a knife, 20 to 25 minutes. While the potatoes cook, sauté the mushrooms (see step 1 under “make the filling”).
   
   Drain the potatoes thoroughly. When they’re cool enough to handle but still warm, remove the skins (they should peel right off!). Pass them through a potato ricer or gently mash them with a potato masher or fork.
   
   Spread the potatoes out on a paper towel-lined baking sheet so all the steam can evaporate and allow them to cool completely. Pat them dry with more paper towels to remove any excess moisture before you’re ready to make the gnocchi dough.
2. Make the filling
   
   Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the butter and, once melted, follow with the sliced mushrooms and a large pinch of salt. Sauté until they release their juices and begin to brown, 10 to 12 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat and stir in the minced garlic and thyme leaves, allowing the residual heat to cook the garlic. Season to taste with salt and pepper and cool completely.
   
   Once the mushrooms have cooled, add them to a food processor with the steel blade attachment. Follow with the cheeses and pulse together until thick and well-combined (the texture should be more like a paste than creamy). Adjust seasoning to taste.
   
   Transfer the filling to a bowl and refrigerate until ready to use, or for at least 30 minutes, to firm up.
   
   Note: The filling can be made a few days in advance and stored in the refrigerator.
3. Make the dough
   
   If you have a food scale, weigh out 1 pound (16 ounces / 450 grams) of the mashed potatoes. If you don’t, keep some additional flour nearby.
   
   Mix the flour and salt together in a large mixing bowl. Then, with your fist, make a large hole (or “well”) in the center. Add half of the mashed potato, half of the beaten egg and a dash of nutmeg, if using, to the center of the well. Repeat with the remaining potato, egg, and a little more nutmeg.
   
   Gently fold the flour from the outside of the bowl into the potato mixture from all directions until everything comes together into a shaggy mass.
   
   Transfer the dough to a flat surface and knead very briefly until everything is evenly incorporated, no more than a minute. If the dough is unbearably sticky (a bit sticky is normal), dust the surface with a bit more flour. You’re not looking for a very smooth dough, so don’t worry if it looks rough around the edges!
   
   Wrap the dough tightly in plastic and pop it in the freezer for 10-15 minutes to rest.
4. Shape the gnocchi
   
   Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and dust the surface in a light coating of flour. Have a small bowl of flour ready to go near your work station, as well as the chilled mushroom filling.
   
   Cut off a quarter of the dough and keep the rest wrapped. Then, if you have a food scale, cut it into approximately ½-ounce (15-gram) pieces. Alternatively, dust the dough in some flour and roll it into a rope about an inch in diameter. Cut the rope in half, and then cut each half into 5 or 6 pieces as even in size as possible.
   
   If the dough is a little sticky, sprinkle some flour on top of each piece and roll it into a ball between your hands. Gently press the ball into a small, flat circle with your fingers.
   
   Add about ½ teaspoon of filling to the center of the circle. Carefully fold the dough around the filling and press to seal. I like to fold opposite sides of the dough over first and pinch, followed by each of the remaining sides respectively (see photos above).
   
   Turn the piece of gnocchi over and gently roll and adjust the shape into a neat disc. Repeat with the remaining dough and filling, and place each finished piece on the parchment-lined baking sheet about an inch apart (you may need two baking sheets).
   
   Place the finished gnocchi in the refrigerator for about 15 minutes to firm up before cooking.
   
   Note: For longer-term storage, freeze the gnocchi on the baking sheet until solid, 1 to 2 hours. Then transfer them to an air-tight container for up to about a month. Cook straight from frozen.
5. Finish the dish
   
   Bring a large pot of water to a boil, then salt it well. Carefully add the gnocchi to the boiling water and cook until they float (you may need to do this in batches). Transfer the gnocchi with a slotted spoon to a large plate to hold, or directly to the butter sauce or hot frying oil in the steps mentioned below. Save the cooking water!
   
   If you prefer something crispy (like I do), I’d suggest pan frying: Heat the olive oil or clarified butter over medium-high in a large non-stick skillet. Add the boiled gnocchi to the pan in a single layer (again, you may need to do this in batches). Cook undisturbed until golden, 3 to 5 minutes, then flip and repeat. Snack on these as they are or finish with high-quality olive oil, parmigiano reggiano, freshly cracked black pepper, fresh thyme and mint leaves, and a sprinkling of fennel pollen (if you have it)!
   
   If you prefer boiled dumplings, I’d suggest this butter sauce: Add the butter and a few thyme sprigs to a large saucepan over medium heat. Once the butter has just about melted, add a couple of spoonfuls of the gnocchi cooking water to the butter and stir vigorously to combine. A glossy, emulsified sauce should quickly emerge! Taste and add salt if needed.
   
   Transfer the gnocchi to the butter sauce and swirl gently to coat. (For large quantities, it may be easier to spoon the butter sauce over the gnocchi directly on a serving plate.) Serve immediately, topped with more butter sauce, a generous amount of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, and fresh thyme leaves.