Summer Corn & Basil Casoncelli

Directions

1. For the pasta & filling
2. Make the pasta dough by hand: Make the pasta dough by hand according to this “well-method” technique.
   
   Or, make the pasta dough in a food processor: Add the flour and eggs to the bowl of a food processor with the steel blade attachment. Pulse together until beads of dough (roughly the size of couscous) start to form, about 30 seconds. Transfer the mixture to a flat, ideally wooden, surface, combine it into a mass, and knead for 5 to 10 minutes until smooth and firm.
   
   Wrap the dough tightly in plastic and allow it to rest at room temperature for at least 30 minutes. While the dough rests, make the filling and start the corn stock (see second part of the recipe).
3. Make the filling: Cut the corn kernels from their cobs. Reserve the cobs for the stock and 80 grams (½ cup) of the raw kernels for the sauce.
   
   Melt the butter in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the remaining corn kernels and a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring often, until tender and beginning to brown, about 10 to 12 minutes. If the bottom of the pan starts to burn, add a touch of water to deglaze. Stir in the chili powder and smoked paprika and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute more. Remove from the heat.
   
   Transfer the cooked corn to a blender or food processor and pulse until smooth and creamy. Reserve 55 grams (¼ cup) of this mixture for the stock.
   
   Combine the remaining corn purée with the ricotta, grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, and basil in a bowl or food processor. Stir in the chives if using and season to taste with salt, pepper, and a few drops of lemon juice. Transfer to a bowl or piping bag and refrigerate until ready to use.
   Note: Filling can be made up to 2 days ahead.
4. Roll the pasta sheets: Cut off a quarter of the pasta dough and tightly rewrap the rest.
   
   If using a pasta machine: Flatten the dough with the heel of your hand until it’s about ¼ inch thick. Set the pasta machine to its widest setting and roll the dough through once (it will be tapered at the ends). Fold both ends into the center like an envelope, so the width of the pasta sheet is similar in width to the pasta roller. Roll the dough through the widest setting once more so the result is an even rectangle.
   
   Continue rolling the pasta sheet through the machine one time on each progressive setting until you have a very thin sheet (about setting 7 or 8 on a Marcato Atlas 150 manual roller or KitchenAid attachment). If the dough is at all sticky as it goes through the machine, dust both sides with a light layer of ‘00’ or all-purpose flour.
   
   If rolling by hand: Roll the portion of dough with a rolling pin into as thin a rectangle as possible—it’s a workout! While you’re aiming for about a millimeter thick, don’t stress and just do the best you can.
5. Assemble the casoncelli: Once you have a long, thin sheet of pasta, lay it on a wooden surface and trim any uneven edges (ball up the scraps and wrap them in plastic to rehydrate—they can be rerolled at the end.) If you don’t have a wooden surface, dust a little flour on the bottom of the pasta sheet and your countertop to prevent sticking.
   
   With a sharp knife or pasta wheel, cut the sheet in half lengthwise so you have two rows. Then cut the rows crosswise into squares (they should be about 6 cm/2½ inches).
   
   Spoon or pipe a scant teaspoon of the chilled filling in the center of each square, leaving a generous rim of dough around it.
   
   Position each square like a diamond. Fold the bottom corner up and over the filling, tucking the point under the dollop a little. Then roll the encased filling over itself toward (but not completely covering) the top point. Feel around for the edges of the filling pocket on either side and use your pointer fingers to press downward firmly to seal (see process images above).
   
   Place the finished casoncelli in a single layer on a tray or sheet pan dusted in coarse semolina flour or lined with a dry dish cloth. Repeat the process with the remaining dough.
   
   Storage note: The casoncelli can be made in advance and frozen. Freeze them on the sheet pan until mostly solid, 20 to 25 minutes (you may need to do this in batches; make sure not to leave them uncovered in the freezer for too long or they’ll crack). Dust off any excess flour and transfer them to a freezer-safe bag until ready to cook—they’ll taste best within a couple of weeks, but they’ll last for up to a couple of months.

1. For the corn stock & sauce
2. Make the corn stock: Wrap the Parmigiano-Reggiano rinds in cheesecloth and tie a knot at the top. (This will prevent the cheese from sticking to the bottom of the pot as it cooks; if you don’t have cheesecloth, skip this step but make sure to stir the stock more often.) Cut the top off the garlic bulb crosswise so the cloves are exposed. Halve the onion through the root.
   
   In a large stockpot or Dutch oven, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the reserved corn cobs, as well as the garlic and onion—cut sides down—and cook until caramelized and the corn is browned on all sides, 3 to 5 minutes.
   
   Add the wrapped cheese rinds and spices, followed by 3 liters (12 cups) of water, or enough so everything is mostly submerged. Stir in the reserved corn purée. Bring to a boil, then immediately reduce to a simmer. Cook the stock, stirring occasionally, until it’s golden in color and reduced by half, about 2 hours.
   
   When the stock is done, strain it through a fine-mesh sieve. Set aside 225 ml (1 cup) for the sauce. Cool and season the remainder with salt to taste and store another use. It’ll keep in the fridge for up to 4 days and the freezer for 4 to 6 months (it’s great in sauces and soups!).
3. Make the sauce: Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large sauté pan or skillet over medium heat. Add the reserved raw corn kernels, season with salt, and cook briefly, 2 to 3 minutes.
   
   Add the wine, if using, and simmer until almost completely evaporated, about 3 minutes more. Follow with the 225 ml (1 cup) of corn stock and simmer until reduced by half, 7 to 10 minutes. Stir in the cream and continue to simmer until slightly thickened, 2 to 3 minutes more. Season to taste with salt and remove from the heat.
4. Cook the pasta & finish the dish: Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it generously. Gently drop in the casoncelli, shaking off any excess flour, and stir briefly to prevent sticking. Cook until tender, 2 to 3 minutes, or to your liking.
   
   Return the sauce to low heat. Transfer the pasta directly to the sauce with a spider or slotted spoon, along with the remaining butter. Toss to coat and keep the pan moving until the butter has emulsified the sauce. Adjust seasoning to taste.
   
   Divide the casoncelli among plates. Serve immediately, topped with more sauce, fresh basil leaves, and finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.