Spam Katsu Musubi

Author Notes

So much of Hawaii comes from other places. The fragrant plumerias that line streets with white, yellow, and pink blossoms are originally from Central and South America. The fluorescent giant day geckos in neon green that dot the island homes are native to eastern Madagascar. Even the cuisine itself is a blend of influences from the different people who have populated the islands. And Spam katsu musubi is a reflection of that mixed history.

The canned ham gained popularity during World War II due to soldiers sharing it wherever they were based. It spread throughout Asia and is now a beloved ingredient in the Philippines, South Korea, and beyond. Within the U.S., Hawaiians alone eat more than 7 million cans of Spam every year, more than anywhere else in the country.

The original Spam musubi is made with Spam (of course), rice, nori, and sometimes a sweet soy glaze. It is believed to have been created by a Japanese woman living in Hawaii, but it gained even more traction after it first appeared at 7-Eleven Hawaii in 1996. There are countless variations out there, like longanisa, tofu, and tempura shrimp. But around 1997 is when Spam katsu musubi made its debut at 7-Eleven Hawaii.

It includes all the same ingredients as the original. But—and this is the best part—the Spam itself is dredged in flour, egg, and crunchy panko, then fried until golden brown. It's a riff on Japanese katsu, a dish where the interior is juicy and the exterior is crisp, with an audible crunch. A former worker of Warabeya USA, the Japanese-owned company that makes the fresh food in 7-Eleven Hawaii, first made this dish as a lunch experiment, not intending for it to be an official item, but it soon became a staple on the menu, and is now the fourth-most-popular musubi variety.
—Kiera Wright-Ruiz