Welcome to Plus One, a column by Food Editor Emily Ziemski where those small-but-mighty additions that instantly upgrade whatever’s on the table—ingredients, sauces, toppings—are the star of the show. Today, an ode to the heart of the ocean, ahem, the produce aisle.
I will forever defend leeks. Like leaving Céline Dion off of Rolling Stone’s Greatest Singers of All Time list (I’m still salty about this), leeks continue to be passed over in favor of other stars. Someone told me recently that they liked them, but their only use was to cook them down to be blended into sauces or soups and, quite frankly, what an extreme underutilization of such an incredible allium. Maybe it’s because they’re filled with dirt and annoying to wash, or maybe people simply forget about them while onions, scallions, and garlic get all the praise. This week, I’m sharing a love letter to my favorite vegetable—the humble leek.
The main reason why I love leeks so much is their versatility. Their mild garlicky flavor lends itself well to truly any savory dish, and their hearty stalks stand up well against heat, adding texture and substance to anything they’re cooked with. Thinly sliced, they blend in perfectly with a hearty pasta sauce. Halved, they become a main character, which is how I’m choosing to work with them for this dish.
Here, I’m leaning on the wintry flavors of orange and bourbon (reminiscent of a hot toddy of sorts), plus verdant pistachios for a nice finishing crunch. Braising the leeks in bourbon adds nutty, sweet notes, while zippy orange juice imbues the leeks with citrusy pep. Together, they gently meld with the charred allium goodness. Serve these braised leeks in a gorgeous enameled cast-iron skillet for a stunning oven-to-table moment, maybe with a gorgeous roast chicken or some scalloped potatoes. —Emily Ziemski
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