Grandma Fanny’s Honey Cake

Author Notes

For me, the Jewish holidays are all about food. I appreciate the rituals and traditions, but let’s be honest, I’m here to eat. For Rosh Hashanah, honey symbolizes our excitement for a sweet new year. However, traditional honey cake isn't exactly the go-to dessert of my dreams. Anyone you ask will tell you the same: The classic version is dry, and it’s basically a Jewish version of Christmas fruitcake. My Grandma Fanny's recipe was no different, yet my family continued to make it. Truth be told, there’s still something compelling about honey cake. Maybe it’s the coziness the cake exudes, or our ancient, instinctual love of honey? Maybe it’s the allure of a family recipe? Whatever the pull, I wanted to find out how good it could be. To my family’s original recipe, I added oranges, olive oil, and whole-wheat flour, and found Fanny’s recipe transformed. Crispy edged, fruity, slightly salty, and fluffy-crumbed, it’s a truly great dessert.

Rosh Hashanah is a fall holiday, so my mother always served Fanny’s cake with apple sauce and poached pears. I tried a few garnish swaps and found just how dynamic this sweet little dessert could be. In winter, I pair it with red wine-poached prunes and mascarpone. For spring, kumquat jam and candied fennel. In summer, roasted peaches and whipped cream. Or, keep it simple and eat it with a dollop of crème fraîche and a cup of tea or coffee.

I treat the eggs and olive oil in this cake similarly to how you would make mayonnaise—beat the eggs until they’re light and fluffy, then slowly drizzle in the oil to create an emulsification. This cake can be a cozy snack or the upscale finale to a festive meal. —Jessica Faith Meter