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Prep time
45 minutes
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Cook time
12 minutes
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makes
about 3 dozen
Author Notes
Many, many years ago, my husband and I were served these lemon-scented “S” cookies at a wonderful restaurant called Ai Barbicani, fittingly located on the Calle del Paradiso in Venice, Italy. Everything about that meal was memorable—the fish was grilled over a wood fire in the middle of the dining room, the squid ink gnocchi were ethereal—but the grand finale, a lemon sorbet mixed with Prosecco and strawberries tableside, was spectacular. These cookies, a classic butter cookie from the island of Burano, were the perfect match for the sparkling cold sorbetto and fruit.
The cookies are traditionally made in the shape of a backward “S.” I haven’t been able to determine why. My first thought was that perhaps it was a subtle dig aimed at the people of Venice, known by all as "La Serenissima," from the folks on the island of Burano, across the Lagoon. I have another theory now: If one looks at the Grand Canal from a bird’s-eye view, it looks like an inverted “S”. Aerial photos of the Grand Canal confirm this, but, as early as 1500, this would have been apparent to Venetians, due to the printing of the famous woodcut by Jacopo de’ Barbari, “View of Venice.” (The six original wood blocks are on view at Venice's Museo Correr.) I don’t know how old the recipe for Buranelli might be, but I think it's possible that, instead of the shape being a dig, it might actually have been more of a tribute. In any event, these are perfect with afternoon coffee or tea, and a simple yet elegant touch at the end of an excellent meal. —Margot Mustich
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Ingredients
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2 cups
all-purpose flour
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1/2 cup
stone-ground yellow cornmeal (I use Indian Head brand)
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10 tablespoons
unsalted butter, at room temperature
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1 cup
plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
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1/2 teaspoon
fine sea salt
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4
large egg yolks
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grated zest of 1 lemon
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2 teaspoons
pure vanilla extract
Directions
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1. Whisk the flour and cornmeal together in a medium size mixing bowl. Set aside.
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Cream the butter in the bowl of an electric mixer on medium-high speed until it is white and fluffy. Gradually add the sugar and salt and continue beating on medium-high until the mixture is very moist and creamy.
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With the mixer on low stir in the egg yolks one at a time, beating each yolk in thoroughly before adding the next one. Add the grated lemon zest and the vanilla extract and mix on low until smooth.
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Turn the mixer off and complete the rest of the mixing by hand. Sift a cup of the dry ingredients over the butter mixture. Fold into the butter and sugar with a rubber spatula. When the flour and cornmeal are blended into the dough, sift another cup of the dry ingredients into the bowl. Mix again with the spatula and, when the flour and cornmeal mixture has been absorbed into the dough, sift in the rest of the dry ingredients. Continue mixing until you get a smooth, sticky dough. Remove the dough to a sheet of wax or parchment paper. Wrap and chill for at least 3 hours.
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Before rolling the dough into cookies, preheat the oven to 350° F.
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Working on a lightly floured marble slab or pastry board roll the dough into a log about 2 inches wide. Slice a piece of dough about ¼-inch wide from the log. Roll this piece of dough, first between your palms, then on the lightly floured board into a 6-inch long rope, shape the rope into an elongated, inverted “S” and place on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Repeat with the rest of the dough, spacing the cookies at least 1½ inches apart.
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Bake, one sheet at a time, in the top third of the oven until pale blond and just golden at the edges, about 12 to 14 minutes, turning the baking sheet halfway through the baking.
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To avoid breakage allow the cookies to cool on the baking sheets for 2 minutes before transferring them to a rack to cool completely.
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These cookies will keep, stored in an airtight container, for up to a week.
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