There's been a whole lot of talk about Zahav's hummus lately—ascribing to it the texture of buttercream, the phrase revelatory heights, and being both the creamiest and the dreamiest. Bon Appétit named it their 2015 dish of the year. In Phyllis Grant's recent Piglet judgement, she wrote that the first chapter alone, with its seven types of hummus, should win a James Beard Award.
But in all of these heaps of accolades, no one has said boo about the craziest and most genius part. Wait till you see it!
The genius of this hummus is credited to all sorts of smart maneuvers in Chef Michael Solomonov's process: soaking the chickpeas in baking soda to raise the pH and soften their skins, his respect for the finest tahini to drive the flavor (he likes Soom Foods), intentionally overcooking the chickpeas until they're just shy of total mush, then whipping them longer than you think you should, till the hummus practically floats.
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All of these details make the hummus what it is: an unearthly cloud, with a haunting, smoky, nutty pulse. "Making Hummus Tehina is one of the hardest things we do at Zahav," Solomonov wrote to me. "Without just the right technique, it just doesn’t work."
But there's one more fascinating step that I'm stunned no one has zeroed in on, that has perhaps the biggest effect on the hummus' nuanced flavor. It was so strange that I had to re-read it a few times. Break up the head of garlic with your hands, letting the unpeeled cloves fall into a blender. Come again?
Yes, you drop whole unpeeled cloves of garlic, papery skins and all, into the blender (or food processor), then mulch it all up with lemon juice and salt. It's an unsettling mixture to think about, filled with inedible debris—until you learn that it's just steeping for 10 minutes, then all getting strained away.
What this means, aside from the fact that you don't have to peel anything, is that you're not adding mashed garlic—fiery, unhinged, very perishable garlic—directly into the hummus, which would usually mean that it would taste precipitously worse and less fresh, the longer it sits in the fridge. (I'd give your average hummus 3 days, tops.)
You're instead adding garlic-infused lemon juice, which makes for a much more gently garlicky, and therefore more fridge-stable, hummus. Solomonov would probably want me to point out, as he writes in Zahav, “Please note that great hummus is never refrigerated,” but we can't all be a hummusiya (though if you want to visit one, his New York City outpost of Dizengoff is opening in Chelsea Market next week).
Just eat whatever you can, then let any lingering in the fridge come down to room temp and it will be pretty darn great. (Also creamy, dreamy, revelatory, buttercream-esque, and so forth.)
Ingredients
| 1 | cup dried chickpeas |
| 2 | teaspoons baking soda, divided |
| 4 | garlic cloves, unpeeled |
| 1/3 | cup (or more) fresh lemon juice |
| 1 | teaspoon kosher salt, plus more |
| 2/3 | cup excellent quality tahini (a.k.a. tehina—Chef Michael Solomonov loves Soom Foods, available on Amazon) |
| 1/4 | teaspoon (or more) ground cumin |
| 1 | splash Olive oil, for serving |
| 1 | handful Chopped parsley and paprika, for serving (optional) |
| 1 | cup dried chickpeas |
| 2 | teaspoons baking soda, divided |
| 4 | garlic cloves, unpeeled |
| 1/3 | cup (or more) fresh lemon juice |
| 1 | teaspoon kosher salt, plus more |
| 2/3 | cup excellent quality tahini (a.k.a. tehina—Chef Michael Solomonov loves Soom Foods, available on Amazon) |
| 1/4 | teaspoon (or more) ground cumin |
| 1 | splash Olive oil, for serving |
| 1 | handful Chopped parsley and paprika, for serving (optional) |
Got a genius recipe to share—from a classic cookbook, an online source, or anywhere, really? Please send it my way (and tell me what's so smart about it) at [email protected]. Thank you to Emily Stephenson and Lukas Volger for this one!
Photos by Bobbi Lin
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Written by: Kristen Miglore
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79 Comments
Beth A.
June 18, 2017
When I make my Hummus I was taught 1) soak the chickpeas for 24 hours. 2) cook the for 8 hours, that is how the hummus becomes fluffy.
3) add lemon juice, water, garlic to taste, salt and pepper, and
4) very important only a little tahini - after all if you want Tahini eat tahini.
5)Process
6) olive oil pour over the top if you want blend olive oil with parsley, garlic hot fresh pepper.
And I thank the woman who won Israel masterchef and shared her recipe!
4) olive oil is poured over the top.
3) add lemon juice, water, garlic to taste, salt and pepper, and
4) very important only a little tahini - after all if you want Tahini eat tahini.
5)Process
6) olive oil pour over the top if you want blend olive oil with parsley, garlic hot fresh pepper.
And I thank the woman who won Israel masterchef and shared her recipe!
4) olive oil is poured over the top.
Noha F.
June 18, 2017
Exactly, Beth! That is the authentic Arab hummus. Any additions take us into the realm of "fusion".
cindy
June 11, 2018
Can you possibly give me more information on amounts (Chickpeas) and when you cook them for 8 hours is that on the stove top?
Sail2DeepBlue
February 3, 2024
How on earth do you cook chickpeas for 8 hours?? Stove top?? Oven?? Setting? Temp?
Plus a more specific recipe would be helpful describing amounts of ingredients.
Plus a more specific recipe would be helpful describing amounts of ingredients.
Noha F.
June 18, 2017
I have been making and eating hummus for more than 30 years. Unless we are trying to kill its essence off (in which case, we should call it something else), I'd stay away from this recipe, which yielded a lifeless flavor after a lot of extra steps. The hummus made by centuries of Palestinian, Lebanese and Syrian cooks traditionally uses soaked chickpeas (not canned, which is a recent notion), a moderate amount of tahini, fresh lemon juice, salt, and garlic. If you don't taste the garlic, people will comment. Individual tastes can then take it up a notch.
roxanne K.
June 15, 2017
Wow! It's just good to know their are other hummus fiends like myself 'out there'. Couldn't live without it. Primary staple.
cosmiccook
June 15, 2017
I tried this recipe but didn't use the tahini recommended but still a good one. This recipe was disappointing. Garlic flavor lacking. I do like the lemon flavor. Despite cooking my chickpeas longer I still didn't get the light and fluffy texture promised. Lacking the garlic zing I happen to love.
I suspect the light and fluffy comes from the MACHINE they use to make it in. I use this method cooking my own peas--http://www.inspiredtaste.net/15938/easy-and-smooth-hummus-recipe/
Maybe I'll be able to get Alon Shaya to divulge his method/recipe!
I suspect the light and fluffy comes from the MACHINE they use to make it in. I use this method cooking my own peas--http://www.inspiredtaste.net/15938/easy-and-smooth-hummus-recipe/
Maybe I'll be able to get Alon Shaya to divulge his method/recipe!
lemons
January 20, 2017
Re raw garlic being pungent and burning - I've found that removing the green sprout in the center of any garlic where it's started to grow helps a great deal with that.
KB
January 20, 2017
I find that RAW garlic in the hummus makes it PUNGENT, burning my throat and tongue. ANY SUGGESTION to avoid that?
Jane R.
January 20, 2017
Did you read the recipe? The garlic is handled very differently in this recipe.
KB
January 20, 2017
Of course, YES. I just wonder what difference will it make to the potent pungency of garlic. Anyway, I will update after trying it out as written.
Jane R.
January 20, 2017
I guess I meant did you read the write up before the menu, they discuss that the flavor of the garlic is tamed in this recipe. The acid in the lemon juice "cooks" the garlic, making the taste softer. But also, the garlic doesn't go into the hummus... it is strained out of the lemon juice.
Rachel
January 20, 2017
The blade on the Cuisinart has been recalled (ones with the 4 rivets, even very old ones). Please contact Cuisinart to get a replacement.
KB
January 20, 2017
Ha, I was about to add that piece of info on the recall, too. But since you did it, it would be repetitive. Good eyes for detail!
radhaks
November 26, 2017
Thank you Rachel!! I've had my cuisinart for close to 25 yrs and use it constantly - heavily during the holidays, but NEVER saw that recall. Just confirmed that my machine requires a new blade, so THANK YOU!!!! Happy Holidays!
KellyBcooks
January 11, 2017
I'm a big fan of hummus and usually use Tamimi/Ottolenghi's recipe (which I adore), but thought to try a new recipe for kicks... which was most disappointing. At first I was thinking it was just me, but I see a lot of others share in my disappointment. Love trying a new Tahini and am glad I bought this kind (smooth, not stirring), but it was too overwhelming of a tahini flavor in the recipe, too much lemon, I don't particularly like the cumin flavor and was sad to see the lack of garlic-zing. oh, and the chickpeas cook down waaaay too much. They were all over the lid of my pot, sides, stovetop, and down my drain (not sure my septic tank is happy about that). Not my favorite technique or recipe. I'll stick to my norm.
Julie-Anne
November 28, 2016
I have to say, I agree with others that this was overwhelmingly tahini-esque. After all the soaking and cooking of dried chickpeas, it was frustrating to find myself opening a can of chickpeas, peeling a handful, and whirring them in at the end with some extra salt and cumin just to tone down the tahini. Then it was better, but very whipped and very mild. I probably won't make this recipe again (unless I cut the tahini in half and up the garlic) but it had interesting ideas and the texture was intriguing.
Nadine B.
November 10, 2016
Cooking the chickpeas with the baking soda until almost falling apart and beating it for a longer period definitely created an interesting texture, but for me I found it almost too light and lacking in flavour. It had no 'zip'. That being said, my 5-year old who is so-so with hummus loved it, probably enjoying the mellower flavour. Because of that, it also makes it the perfect vehicle for toppings. We topped with fried chickpeas dusted in cayenne and smoky paprika, some fresh chopped parsley and a healthy drizzle of good extra virgin olive oil with a big pinch of Maldon sea salt. Delicious.
shiny
July 2, 2016
I made this today with red lentils rather than chickpeas (had no chickpeas on hand and lentils cook much faster. I overcooked them as well as per the recipe.) It's fluffy and creamy all right, which makes me suspect all the steps involving soaking and cooking the dried chickpeas are not the secret to the creamy texture of this recipe.
I'm not hummus expert, but this recipe has a few significant differences from others that I've tried: waaaay more tahini, straining out the garlic, way more lemon juice, added water, no olive oil in the recipe itself.
I suspect the creamy/fluffy aspect is from the huge amount of tahini along with all the liquids that are added (1/4c water, 1/3c lemon juice) and the fact that the liquids and heavy paste are whipped for a long time.
This hummus was good, but the tahini flavour is overwhelming. It overpowers the lemon and garlic. Next time I make this I think I'll reduce the tahini and increase the number of garlic cloves and perhaps increase the lemon juice a bit. It will likely change the texture, but we'll see.
I'm not hummus expert, but this recipe has a few significant differences from others that I've tried: waaaay more tahini, straining out the garlic, way more lemon juice, added water, no olive oil in the recipe itself.
I suspect the creamy/fluffy aspect is from the huge amount of tahini along with all the liquids that are added (1/4c water, 1/3c lemon juice) and the fact that the liquids and heavy paste are whipped for a long time.
This hummus was good, but the tahini flavour is overwhelming. It overpowers the lemon and garlic. Next time I make this I think I'll reduce the tahini and increase the number of garlic cloves and perhaps increase the lemon juice a bit. It will likely change the texture, but we'll see.
Wholefoodie
February 10, 2021
I think that added oil is not needed in this recipe because blending sesame seeds releases oils so tahini already has a high oil content. Tahini generally separates in the container with the oil sitting on top and has to be stirred. Though Solomonovs preferred brand, soom, seems to have solved this problem. I love tahini and make my own tahini based salad dressings. I use other nuts and seeds also, but tahini is my favorite. I don't use oil in my dressings.
stan
May 26, 2016
If you want to make great hummus....try this....don't use salt...use cured olives....I use green, but dark like cala or greek oil cured work too....use a little lemon zest with the lemon juice.....try a pinch of fresh rosemary......if you don't like the "bite" of the garlic..but still want the flavor....lower the cloves (cut in 1/2), using a slotted spoon, into hot water for 10 to 15 seconds, and cool quickly on ice to stop the cooking process....(same thing works wonders with onions)
Fred R.
May 26, 2016
Stan
Now, using olives IS genus. I don't add salt, but my daughter works for a company that imports Greek and French oil cured olives, so my olive choices are unlimited. And, rosemary grows around our official geezer community in Tucson like a weed. Thanks.
Now, using olives IS genus. I don't add salt, but my daughter works for a company that imports Greek and French oil cured olives, so my olive choices are unlimited. And, rosemary grows around our official geezer community in Tucson like a weed. Thanks.
stan
May 23, 2016
This is disgusting....there would be mostly tahini flavor, not chickpeas.....the garlic skins mean nothing, just use a little less garlic.....and there's too much lemon juice....and .too much tahini....."genius"? What a crock of shit....I have cooked at some of the best restaurants in NY and LA...and have never seen this level of crap served anywhere decent.....this is the equivelant to making spaghetti sauce out of ketchup
Jane R.
January 20, 2017
I haven't made this, but I ate it at the restaurant in Philly and it was the most delicious hummus I have ever had... and have been eating hummus for 50 plus years.
Fred R.
May 19, 2016
Daniel, ordering "special ingredients" is something a good cook looks forward to....poor baby.
Daniel A.
May 18, 2016
Not so genius.
It was good but personally, I feel it was more work than it's worth, especially considering I had to order special ingredients.
It was good but personally, I feel it was more work than it's worth, especially considering I had to order special ingredients.
I_Fortuna
May 18, 2016
I am not sure what "special ingredients" you are referring to. These are all ingredients available at the local grocery store and, in fact, they are all ingredients I usually have on hand. We live in a small town and all these ingredients can be found at the local WM. They even have prepackaged hummus if you would rather. : )
James F.
May 10, 2016
I like this recipe (and a lot more from the cookbook). Even though I like the Jerusalem cookbook (and the Plenty books), I've never gotten the popularity if their hummus recipe. It always turns out like cement for me!
James F.
May 11, 2016
I do but WAY more than the recipe calls for and still gets cement like as it cools. Zahav recipe no prob.
I_Fortuna
May 11, 2016
I am confused, do you cook your hummus or just the chickpeas? I never have any problem . I cook the beans let them cool, then add lemon, salt, and some a little water, and tahini. I don't use a recipe though. I top it with sumac. Sometimes, I use canned and it always comes out great. However, I am glad you have found a recipe you like. : )
James F.
May 11, 2016
I follow the recipe exactly as it is in the book. It just comes out really thick.
NuMystic
May 30, 2019
What you're describing is actually explained in Solomnov's book! A fluffy hummus recipe like this is an emulsion and like all emulsions it can seize, especially after being chilled. If that happens you just have to gently whisk in a few tablespoons of cold water at a time until it becomes a fluffy emulsion again.
Karl R.
April 14, 2016
Excited to try this!
Anyone have comments on how this compares to the other genius hummus recipe? https://food52.com/recipes/22888-yotam-ottolenghi-sami-tamimi-s-basic-hummus
They seem to share at least one key: lot's of tahini, skip the oil.
Anyone have comments on how this compares to the other genius hummus recipe? https://food52.com/recipes/22888-yotam-ottolenghi-sami-tamimi-s-basic-hummus
They seem to share at least one key: lot's of tahini, skip the oil.
I_Fortuna
April 13, 2016
Too much garlic and where is the sumac and onions. I always serve my hummus with blanched onions marinated in vinegar and slivered beets for color and flavor.
Wholefoodie
February 10, 2021
Interesting recipe. I love the idea of adding onions and beets. Where did you learn this recipe?
HDeffenbaugh
April 13, 2016
So simple and so creamy. A definite crowd pleaser where everyone is asking for the recipe.
Karen
April 13, 2016
I've been making hummus for over 20 years with the recipe in the Moosewood Cookbook, which is good. However, I made this today (not exactly by the recipe, but close) and it was delicious! Soaking and cooking dried chick peas are the key, I think. The texture is light and creamy. SO much better than store-bought.
Suzanne M.
April 2, 2016
Perfect hummus. I followed the recipe precisely It turned out perfectly. The flavor really depends on how much one likes tahini... adjust accordingly. Smooth, velvety, delicious! Loved this recipe.
Marlene
April 1, 2016
Agree with hummus man. You need to mention for those who may not know, that the restaurant by the same nsme, Zahav and the original Dizengoff are 8n PHILADELPHIA. How can you cite or have an outpost without mentioning the ORIGINALS!?
HummusMan
March 31, 2016
Why does the article reference a Dizengoff's opening in NYC but not mention that the Zahav restaurant and the original Dizangoff's are both in Philly?
anne
March 30, 2016
This recipe is too heavy on tahini and too weak on flavor. I ended up adding more garlic and lemon juice. Although I do like the concept of not peeling the garlic. All legumes are better Cooked in pressure cookers.
Fred R.
March 30, 2016
Pressure cooker seems to "muddy" flavors....especially caramelized onions. Maybe just me.
lemons
March 30, 2016
My next move will be to try this using the slow cooker. I find that chickpeas or other legumes cooked in one have a better flavor and the broth is wonderfully rich. And I've never been able to consistently figure out how old my chickpeas are. Especially if you buy in bulk, you're buying blind.
barbara
March 30, 2016
Is there any rule of thumb for the age of the dried chickpeas used in this recipe? Does it matter? Can you add the baking soda and let them soak longer? Let them simmer in a crockpot?
Fred R.
March 30, 2016
In the past I've used chickpeas that had to have been sitting in my airtight jars for a couple of years and they worked just fine. More important is to test for doneness because, for instance, elevation controls water boiling temperature and that always affects any cooking time. We spend four months at 6600 ft, and water boils at 199 degrees F. Takes practice.
lemons
March 29, 2016
alygator, most tahina separates - the Soom I bought hadn't, but the usual stuff does, like peanut butter did back in the dark ages. I just take a table knife to get down into those tall, narrow jars and stir. That would give me enough for whatever I was using. I would probably re-stir after removing the amount my recipe needed, but it would do it again. Since you're going to be whirring it again - probably - in a recipe, you don't need to worry about whatever you measure out not being consistent in its texture.
alygator
March 29, 2016
I just bought Zahav after Piglet wrapped and was so excited to make this. So light and fluffy! Delicious. The only problem is that I made a total mess in the kitchen. I haven't worked with tahini much and had it all over the counter, utensils and food processor. Would the brand of tahini I use make a difference? The brand I had bought was separated and had a thick layer of oil so I buzzed the whole thing in the food processor first. In any event, this recipe was worth the effort!
J P.
March 28, 2016
Just a bit of science; baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) is alkaline, and so adding it will raise the pH, not lower it. The pH scale goes from 1 to 14, with 1 being the most acidic :-)
Kristen M.
March 28, 2016
Thanks J! I had my 10th grade chemistry all backwards. I've updated the article.
Heather Z.
March 27, 2016
I've been wondering lately, how did they make hummus before blenders or food processors?
Marika V.
March 27, 2016
really good recipe, will use the garlic lemon juice tick for other recipes in the future
Heather Z.
March 27, 2016
I like a very garlicky hummus, so I add the peeled, mashed cloves, and lots of them. And whose hummus lasts longer than three days, anyway?
Alexander C.
March 27, 2016
The video of Chef Solomonov making this recipe is on the Panna app (subscription required). Lots of pointers as he make the "mother sauce" and then ultimately the Hummus Tahina.
Mary
March 27, 2016
I have to say that I loved the Zahav cookbook so much that I bought two copies as gifts for family members. But this isn't the hummus recipe that I use. My favorite is an early Michael Solomonov recipe published elsewhere. It calls for soaking the chickpeas overnight in water mixed with baking soda. The next day, the chickpeas are rinsed to remove the excess baking soda. Then the chickpeas are boiled with some unpeeled cloves of garlic. The cloves are peeled after cooking. The cooking water is used to thin the hummus. This can be done because you have already rinsed away the baking soda. My tweaks: I like loved this recipe so much that I purchased a small pressure cooker to make it in. It really cuts down on the cooking time, and less water is required to cook the chickpeas. Less water means less flavor going down the drain. Also, I had some problems making the recipe at my sister's house using a food processor. I use a high end emulsifying blender at home. (Yes, I am a gadget geek. Lest I sound like a frivolous spender, I do manage to drive my family crazy because I feel guilty spending money on restaurants and I'm obsessive about repurposing food to avoid waste. I have probably made up a lot of the cost of my pressure cooker and blender by cooking stock, dry beans, and of course, homemade hummus!)
Fred R.
March 27, 2016
Is this a bit of a joke? I really don't have to peel my garlic?.....my day is truly saved!
Rose L.
March 27, 2016
wow--coincidentally i'm making my hummus for dinner tonight with home made pita bread. actually it isn't 'mine'--just my favorite. i brought home the recipe about 20 years ago from a visit to Melbourne, AU. Mira Freeman, who had lived in Israel, made the dish and gave me her recipe. it is remarkably similar to Zahav's except for the brilliant idea about steeping and straining the garlic. Mira's technique is also using the baking soda but a dear friend and chef from Sicily told me that her mother always rubbed the chick peas in salt to enable them to hydrate better! i have just one thing of my own to add (at the risk of everyone saying "Rose Levy Beranbaum WOULD do that". i've tried it both with and without peeling the chickpeas and it is silkier when peeling them.
PS Mira served the hummus adorned with little dollops of "green sauce" made with cilantro, poblano peppers, garlic, cumin and coriander seeds.
PS Mira served the hummus adorned with little dollops of "green sauce" made with cilantro, poblano peppers, garlic, cumin and coriander seeds.
lemons
March 27, 2016
I just made this and was blown away by the change in the peas from the baking soda. Radically shortens the cooking time, and the difference in the texture from what he calls "overcooked" chickpeas is stunning. No need to worry about taking the skins off for a great texture. I did go ahead and make their tahina sauce after I splurged on the Soom, which is available on Amazon. It's all very subtle compared to some hummuses (hummi?) I've made and had, but worthwhile.
Lisa
April 13, 2016
Hummus is both single and plural, like sheep or fish. So in this case, you can take the easy way out and leave well enough alone!
Ziad
March 27, 2016
I don't understand cumin in hummus. It's not authentic and, IMO, kills everything this chick-pea and tahini flavor. Every time i had hummus with cumin in it, it was all cumin, regardless of how little cumin you put in there. Lebanese Hummus has no cumin in it, it's pure chick-pea, tahini, and lemon juice flavor. Moreover, the baking soda is something done to the chick peas after an overnight soak, right before boiling them. The peas are rubbed with baking soda, which helps reduce the gas and remove the skins, which later float to the surface as the peas boil. We remove most of the skins before making the hummus, which makes it very smooth and creamy.
Jane R.
March 26, 2016
I think it's not just "garlic flavored lemon juice" that makes the difference. It's the same principle seem in making a French vinaigrette. The garlic is "cooked" by the acid, which mellows it.
Beth
March 26, 2016
Are there any other suggestions for good tahini?
Wholefoodie
February 10, 2021
Purchase sesame seeds, I like terrasoul, and blend in the food processor until creamy. Fresh is best.
Anne T.
March 23, 2016
This was the first recipe I made from the book and I agree the garlic step makes a huge difference-I have been telling everyone who will listen! Best hummus I have ever made.
Matilda L.
March 23, 2016
Kenji Lopez recently went into the science of why the whole head of unpeeled garlic blended with lemon juice isn't inedibly sharp and hot as one might expect a whole head to be: http://www.seriouseats.com/2016/03/the-food-lab-how-to-make-great-hummus.html
Emily S.
March 23, 2016
Yesssssssssss. Lukas and I had it at the same dinner, which was basically to highlight how amazingly good this hummus is.
WHB
March 23, 2016
Kristen, You never disappoint! I have been loyal to the Ottolenghi method since I bought Jerusalem, but I am going to give this method a whirl. Thanks for another genius tip.
EmilyC
March 23, 2016
Can't wait to try this, maybe with homemade pita from The Hot Bread Kitchen Cookbook?! And I have to ask: how does this hummus stack up to Ottolenghi's? I recently made Alon Shaya's hummus, which instructs you to cook 8 peeled garlic cloves along with the chickpeas, which nicely mellows the garlic and flavors the chickpeas. I'm intrigued by the lemon juice soak used here! (Shaya's recipe, or at least the version posted online, leaves out the ice water step, which is pretty essential, so I'm glad to see it's included here.)
nomnomMKE
March 23, 2016
I just happened to make this recipe over the weekend, and it really is as good as everyone says. And it's just as good after a few days of refrigeration (as it turns out that two people cannot polish off 4 cups of hummus in one sitting).
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