Kitchen Confidence

Bottarga: Poor Man's Caviar No More

By • May 23, 2012 • 9 Comments

Inspired by conversations on the FOOD52 Hotline, we're sharing tips and tricks that make navigating all of our kitchens easier and more fun. Today, we're sharing ways to use bottarga.

bottarga over eggs

The workmen who built the Egyptian pyramids may have subsisted on onions, bread and beer, but just a few centuries later their descendants were enjoying their flatbread topped with bottarga. Sometimes referred to as "the poor man's caviar," bottarga has been a Mediterranean staple ever since.

What is bottarga exactly?

Bottarga production is the same today it was in ancient Eqypt: tuna or grey mullet roe is salted, pressed, dried and then coated in beeswax for preserving.

How do you use it?

The Lebanese bravely eat their bottarga in slices with raw garlic and dunked in olive oil, but the deep orange roe is most often shaved or grated to adorn everything from pasta to compound butter with its bright, briny flavor. Like anchovies or caviar, it adds salt and umami, but with a feathery texture and personality all its own.

Where do you get it?

Bottarga is made in Europe, Asia, and now the U.S. In 2007, Seth Cripe, founder of Cortez Bottarga, began hauling grey mullet from the Gulf of Mexico and curing the roe, which you can find over in the FOOD52 Shop. Below, we share some tips and tricks for working with this saline treat.

Shaved Bottarga

Handling Bottarga

Nick Anderer of Maialino in New York City suggests using a mandolin to shave the roe, and a microplane to grate it. We were surprised -- and delighted -- to learn that he leaves the natural casing intact.

Cooking with Bottarga

Flatbread: Italians like to shave bottarga over a paper-thin flatbread called carta da musica. In her cookbook, A Girl and Her Pig, April Bloomfield includes a recipe involving nothing more than carta da musica, bottarga, butter, flaky sea salt, red pepper flakes and extra virgin olive oil.

Pasta: Another Italian tradition is bottarga with pasta -- most notably, spaghetti alla chitarra con bottarga. At Maialino, Anderer makes a simple sauce with garlic, olive oil, parsley and white wine. Slicked in this sauce, spaghetti is served on a bed of grated bottarga and finished with yet more bottarga.

Bottarga Salad

Eggs: Anderer's celery salad with soft boiled egg and shaved bottarga (pictured above) is crunchy, creamy, and salty all at once. Or try bottarga grated over scrambled eggs.

Vegetables: Shaved or grated bottarga is great for livening up fresh vegetables. Try it with boiled potatoes, raw zucchini, asparagus or green beans. 

Shaved Bottarga

Storing Bottarga

Bottarga can be kept in the fridge for up to a year, as long as it's vacuum sealed or wrapped tightly in plastic.

Are you a bottarga fan? If so, how do you like to prepare it?

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Tags: kitchen confidence, bottarga, mullet roe, cortez bottarga, italian, recipe, how-to & diy

Comments (9)

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Stringio

10 days ago ellen06

Some of these preparations are strange (butter? No!!), but it's nice to see bottarga get some love. I love it sliced thinly with young olive oil and celery. It's also nice grated on top of spaghetti and clams cooked with garlic, parsley and white wine (or by itself on spaghetti with some olive oil).

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about 1 year ago moMa

Maiden Lane in the East Village has this on the menu today!!!

Stonecutting_32

about 2 years ago littleknitter

Perfect timing! I just got back from Rome less than 3 hours ago with some bottarga in hand and was wondering how best to use it when this article popped up in my feed reader :-)

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about 2 years ago thirschfeld

I am so making that salad. I brought back a hunk of bottarga from Eatily.

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about 2 years ago charlotte au chocolat

Bottarga was a staple in my Tunisian family's home growing up. I like it best in a spaghetti dish, but that celery salad looks amazing as well! My Mom actually sent me a piece of Cortez bottarga a few months ago, and it was delicious. You can read more about it here:

http://charlotteauchocolat...

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about 2 years ago gourmettenyc

Your recipe looks delicious! Thanks for sharing.

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about 2 years ago sygyzy

Thanks for the bottarga writeup. I've looked in the past and found it very difficult to obtain. Now that you suggested a source, maybe I can get some. I wonder how long it lasts?

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about 2 years ago gourmettenyc

Yes, I encourage you to try this bottarga -- it's delicious. With regards to how long it lasts, as mentioned above, bottarga can be kept in the fridge for up to a year.

Stringio

about 15 hours ago Basil Glew-Galloway

It's actually quite easy to make at home. Get roe sacks from you local fish market. My guy sells 'em really cheap when they're breaking down a whole fish. Pack the roe sacks in salt, change the salt out every couple days, and do that for 2 weeks.