Wine, Unfussed

If You Can't Afford This Bottle, Go with That

By • April 4, 2013 • 21 Comments

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We may have food down cold, but wine? This is where we'll conquer it. Join us; we don't want to drink alone. 

Today: Drink well -- without the price tag -- by following cues about the vineyardthe label, and the location

At a recent auction, French Burgundy Domaine de la Romanée-Conti went for $13,061. A bottle. But there aren't many of us who can (or want to) pay that much for a few glasses of wine -- after all, when we uncork a bottle, drinking what we like should be our main objective. 

So what makes a bottle that expensive? One of the reasons is that there’s precious little of it, and that’s because certain wine laws (for our Romanée-Conti, we’re talking French wine laws -- a canon you definitely don’t want to mess with) classify very specific parcels of land for a limited quantity of grapes. Supply is low, demand is high -- and so too are the prices.

To replicate that same experience, minus the lifetime investment, here's what you can do. 

One Vineyard, Two Vineyard
On the label, look for the words “single vineyard.” That means, just like with that pricey French bottle, that all the grapes used to make the wine come from one very specific place. Get the same effect as something like an expensive Burgundy Prémier Cru for a third of the price with a single-vineyard, balanced California Chardonnay. (We like this one.) A single-vineyard wine is a wine that knows exactly who it is -- it's confident and pulled-together, partly because of its unified origin.

The Label Matters
Try looking for “second labels.” Some wineries have extra juice leftover from bottling their premium wines, and they either sell off the juice, or bottle it themselves under a different label. Some companies, like 90+ Cellars, have built their businesses on buying juice from superior wineries and simply bottling it under their own label -- these usually range from $10 to $16 dollars.

Look for second labels especially with rich, Napa Cabernet Sauvignons, which will often run you more than your nightly wine budget. In a blind taste between two cabs -- one a $60 well-known bottle, one a second label that ran about $16 -- my friends found the less expensive bottle to be a natural pleaser, over the expensive, more restrained one.

More: Looking for other affordable wines? If dinner's braised, head here.

How to Experiment without the Price Tag 
If you’re looking to be adventurous, remember these two things:

1) White wines tend to be less expensive than reds. You’re likely to find a larger range of bottles in your price range, making trying a lot of different wines easy. Just don’t drink them all at once. 

2) Go for lesser-known varietals, which tend to be more affordable. Like Sauvignon Blanc? Try this bottle of Torrentes from Argentina, or this inexpensive Vinho Verde from Portugal.

Drink Local
It’s becoming just as easy to drink local as it is to eat local, so look closer to home than the expensive, well-known varietals of abroad. (This book can help.) Ice wines serve as a great example here -- indulge in a renowned Sauternes from Bordeaux for $200 a bottle, or choose a wonderful bottle of Eden Ice Cider, from upstate New York, for $25.

What are your secrets to drinking well on a budget? Have a favorite wine worth the splurge? Tell us in the comments! 

Photos by James Ransom 

Read More:
How to Pour Wine Like a Pro
Saving Leftover Wine
Genius Spiced Red Wine

 

 

Jump to Comments (21)

Tags: wine unfussed, wine, varietals, expensive, bottles, pairings, second labels, single vineyard

Comments (21)

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Stringio

over 1 year ago Eenee Pflum Ferrano

You've raised my consciousness! I am really looking forward to a trip to the vineyards around my new home (SF/East BAY/Napa). So much to learn...but it's all about liking what you drink and only drinking what you like....yes !

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over 1 year ago bsun

A good wine shop will always have someone knowledgeable to help if you don't have the time, like restaurants with good wine programs will have at least one sommelier around to help. Good wine shops will want to develop a relationship with you. You can try them out by asking them to pick a wine with your criteria and price point (elegant red wine, crisp and earthy around $15) then see how they do. Once they get to know you, your taste and budget, they will steer you to hidden gems inside their shop as well.

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over 1 year ago Cathy Huyghe

Absolutely agree! The staff at wine shops, especially the one you pass by most frequently, are an incredibly strong ally for wine exploration. They know their inventory best, and can identify which bottles on their shelves at that moment best respond to what you're looking for. Don't be shy, talk them up! Bonus: once they know what you like, they'll think of you when they get in special deliveries that suit your taste. Which can lead to some really exciting discoveries!

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over 1 year ago ntt2

I remember we had a book that set up "tastings" of two wines and then, depending on which wine you liked better suggested the next pairing. I thought it a great way for someone starting out. Downside is that it listed specific wines and years and therefor is out of date...

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over 1 year ago Cathy Huyghe

Neat! Can you give us some more information? Who had the book? Is some version of it still available? There are digital versions of wine recommendation engines available, but maybe this version is more low tech? Thank you!

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over 1 year ago ntt2

I'll see if I can find it this weekend!

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over 1 year ago Cathy Huyghe

You went right to Rule Number One! Drink what you like. Of course, it helps to *know* what you like, and it sounds like your "work" at tastings have taken you a long way :-) Please keep an eye out for wines from Cahors, in the southwestern part of France. They fit your preferred taste profile of big, flavorful reds, and since it's made mostly from Malbec, the tannins are intense, so much so that a lot of the winemakers there have teeth stained purple! There's a new crop of young winemakers from the region who are making wines that are a little more toned down and able to be drunk younger than their predecessors. These younger wines are also less expensive. I'm seeing the Cahors label more and more. If you try any, please let me know what you think!

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over 1 year ago dymnyno

Not exactly a new winemaker, but Papl Hobbs is making wine in Cahors.

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over 1 year ago dymnyno

I meant Paul Hobbs.

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over 1 year ago Cathy Huyghe

Yes! Stephane Derenencourt also. It's a happening place!

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over 1 year ago dymnyno

I agree with carswell. Sometimes you have to beware of what I call virtual wineries,ie, wineries with no vineyards of their own who buy left over juice from wineries like mine. We sold 90% of our '08 off because of smoke taint which which was bottled and sold under other labels. When wineries sell juice to other wineries the original source of the grapes is almost never disclosed. In fact when we sell our very premium grapes to another winery it is only with a contract that agrees to vineyard designation that we are named as the source.

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over 1 year ago Cathy Huyghe

Thank you, very much, for this word of caution from someone who knows. It does happen, unfortunately, that bad or tainted juice gets into bottles. All the more reason, then, to keep track of which wines you like and which you taste that seem "off" in some way, and will know to steer clear of them in the future. Keeping track of the wines you try doesn't have to be complicated -- I've heard Instagram works well!

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over 1 year ago KateM

When I visited the Okanagan every summer, with their dizzying array of wineries from garagistes (Nichols) to the huge and beautiful (Mission Hill, complete with Chagall tapestries), I'd scan each shop's offerings, pick three medal winners, taste those and chose my favourite of the three. Paying attention to a balance of different reds, whites & rosés, I'd head home with my wine for the winter. It always seemed to impress my much-more-wine-knowledgeable friends.
Usually picking up one or two per winery, the one case I bought annually,if not sold out, was the pinot meunier from Thornhaven. Heaven in a glass.

Me

over 1 year ago Kenzi Wilbur

Kenzi is the Managing Editor of Food52.

Love this recommendation, thank you!

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over 1 year ago Cathy Huyghe

I would love to try this! Pinot Meunier is such an interesting grape, yet not overly used. I'll definitely seek it out. You've also offered a neat strategy for picking your own "house wine," which is especially effective when you've done the tasting for it in person and "on site," so to speak. Thank you!

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over 1 year ago KateM

You may know that the meunier ('miller' in French) refers to the underside of this varietal's leaves: they are flecked with white as though sprinkled with flour!
And thanks for the comment on my simple purchasing strategy. For someone as uninformed as I, although I still do a tasting and choose myself, I know that someone has admired these wines. The other advantage of this method is that I can try the less expensive wines, avoiding the assumption the more costly, the better, the cheaper, the worse.

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over 1 year ago Cathy Huyghe

Your own palate is the one that matters most! Trust it, just as you do with food... Thank you for the note on meunièr too, I didn't know that! It's why I love wine so much -- there is so very much to learn, and every bottle, every glass, even every sip is new!

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over 1 year ago MaryDD

Funny to hear someone talk about the Okanagan and Mission Hill on this site, I can see the bell tower from my deck! As a humble local, we feel fortunate to have these wineries on our doorstep. Every year there seems to be another vineyard that goes from growing their grapes for a winery, to keeping their crop and start producing the wine themselves, so there's always something new.

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over 1 year ago Cathy Huyghe

Lucky you, Mary! That's so exciting, to have them so close to home. And I'm very curious to hear how many vineyards near you are switching from being growers to producers… That's great news for wine lovers! Thank you for sharing.

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over 1 year ago carswell

My best advice is to go to wine tastings and find out what you really like. That makes it far easier to choose wine in the long run.

For instance - my personal tastes run to big, juicy reds with lots of flavour. That lets out most French wine right off the bat, no matter how expensive. I now know, through tasting and experience, that hot country reds are where I start when I'm looking for a bottle.

That's not to say that I don't appreciate a more restrained wine or an expensive and age worthy one - but through a long stretch of tutored tastings I know the difference and I know what producers and which processes produce the tastes I like best.

Me

over 1 year ago Kenzi Wilbur

Kenzi is the Managing Editor of Food52.

Couldn't agree more. The more you taste, the more you know.