Every week we get Down & Dirty, in which we break down our favorite unique seasonal fruits, vegetables, and more.
Today: Bring a little green into your kitchen with fresh curry leaves. Spring temperatures not included.
Let’s get this out of the way right off the bat. Curry leaves are an herb, and they are not related to curry powder. Curry powder is a blend of different spices which may or (far more likely) may not include curry leaves. In The Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson writes of curry powder: “the kind sold commercially represents an attempt by the British manufactures to provide in ready-made form a spice mixture corresponding to those uses in South India.” Powder and leaves are not, in any way, a substitute for one another.
To add to the confusion, curry leaf plants and curry plants are different, too; if you're looking to grow your own curry leaves, the former is what you want. Linguistic sticklers be advised: The curry leaf plant has pinnate leaves (1, below), so when a recipe calls for a certain number of curry leaves, it’s actually calling for said number of curry leaflets (2, below).
More: Our friends at Modern Farmer share 5 more plants that are easy to grow at home.
So what are they, then? Curry leaves are a part of the same family as citrus fruits. Their glossy green leaves are very aromatic, and they have a unique flavor all their own. There is a citrus element, along with something else that’s hard to put your finger on -- some say asafoetida, and others anise. In her book Classic Indian Cooking, Julie Sahni describes the leaves as having “a bitterish taste and a sweetish, pungent aroma almost like lemon grass."
Needless to say, they are unlike anything else in your spice rack, so it's no surprise that Monica Bhide divides her life “into B.C. and A.C. -- before curry leaves and after I first ate them” -- and you just might too. Look for them at Indian or Asian markets, and get cooking. Curry leaf newbies take note: Some preparations will call for curry leaves to be removed from a dish, but it's fine when they don't -- the leaves are completely edible. (Sorry to deprive you of fun games like "Find the Missing Bay Leaf.")
- Amanda suggests picking up Maya Kaimal's book Savoring the Spice Coast of India -- "lots of recipes call for curry leaves," and saving some for later by freezing them. When using frozen curry leaves, RobertaJ uses the spine of her chef's knife to "bruise" them a bit first.
- Panfusine offers up a simple relish recipe: "1 cup curry leaves, 1/4 cup fresh ginger, juice of 1 lime, toasted cumin, 2 green chiles (adjust as per taste), and salt to taste -- process these in a food processor until smooth." Enjoy with toasted crostini, if, like Panfusine, you have a "crazy palate.”
- Pauljoseph has a lot of ideas: "Whole sprigs of fresh curry leaves are often quickly fried (because they can burn in seconds) in ghee or oil with other Indian spices, such as mustard seeds and cumin, and then stirred into any curry. They're delicious with chopped tomatoes or fresh corn kernels. Try grinding the leaves with coconut, chilies, and tamarind to make a chutney." And that's not all he has to share -- multiple community members point to pauljoseph’s recipes as a source for curry leaf cooking inspiration.
- MaryMaryCulinary says: "I do a lot of South Indian and Sri Lankan cooking, and I am always throwing a sprig into something. However, I buy them in large bags, so I was excited to find this curry leaf sambol recipe as it uses a cup of the leaves. It's delicious with rice and I love it on egg hoppers."
After you’ve worked your way through these suggestions and mastered your favorite dal recipe, branch out and try curry leaves in scrambled eggs, bread, or a mojito. Go wild -- it's the weekend, after all.
Did we miss your favorite way to use curry leaves? Tell us in the comments!
Photos by James Ransom