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I don't usually hand out recipe advice but… I agree, a 225F oven would be better, as would a 190F finished temp on the roast. 200 is about the tipping point, where moisture gets squeezed from muscle fibers. Covering with foil is an important step, to get the temperature above the stall. You would, of course, have to increase the cooking time considerably.
I've made a lot of recipes from Food and Wine, and while they generally work very well, I've found that they use shortcuts on certain types of dishes -- like those requiring "low and slow" preparations -- such as nudging up cooking temperatures and shortening cooking times, presumably to make the recipes more convenient for the presumed "sophisticated-yet-busy home cook" who is their target demographic. The dish might work OK the way they say to do it, but your way will be better.
Thank you both! I am going to do it the long way...