The Walnut Variation: A Cake

By • April 29, 2014 • 47 Comments

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Author Notes: Recently, I discovered The Worlds's Best Cake -- a lovely vanilla affair with whipped cream, meringue, and almonds. It was indeed amazing, and I thank Sweet Paul for the introduction. Ever since I made this soft, chewy, crisp, crunchy, and billowy cake, I've been pondering variations on the theme. This is the Walnut Variation: coffee-flavored cake, cinnamon meringue, toasted walnuts, and maple vanilla whipped cream. The technique is Sweet Paul; the flavor variation is mine.Aliwaks

Food52 Review: WHO: Aliwaks is a longtime Food52er from Philadelphia.
WHAT: A stunner of a cake -- full stop.
HOW: Bake two cakes with meringue on top of them; whip some cream; stack. Watch your dinner party go silent.
WHY WE LOVE IT: This cake is a total show-stopper. It’s dramatic and showy, and it tastes that way too: Deep from brown sugar and walnuts and lightly spiced, you’ll want to make this for every occasion, ever. We already do.
The Editors

Makes 1 cake

  • 1 1/2 cups heavy cream
  • 1/2 vanilla bean
  • 10 1/2 tablespoons butter, softened
  • 2/3 cup brown sugar
  • 1 1/3 cups flour
  • 1 teaspoon baking powder
  • 4 teaspoons espresso powder
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 5 egg yolks
  • 1/3 cup milk
  • 5 egg whites
  • 1 cup granulated sugar
  • 2 teaspoons cinnamon
  • 1/2 cup walnuts, chopped and toasted
  • 1 tablespoon maple syrup
  1. The night before: Separate eggs and let egg whites sit on the counter overnight, covered with a clean cloth. Pour cream into a saucepan. Split and scrape vanilla bean into the cream and heat until just boiling. Remove from heat and let cool. Cover and chill overnight.
  2. The next day: Preheat oven to 350° F. Prepare a 9 x 12-inch cake pan with buttered parchment. (Alternatively, you can prepare two 9-inch round cake pans.)
  3. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, cream butter and brown sugar until creamy and fluffy, about 3 to 4 minutes.
  4. Whisk together flour, baking powder, espresso powder, and salt. Add mixture to butter and sugar in 3 increments, mixing fully between additions.
  5. Whisk together egg yolks and milk. Add to batter in 3 increments, incorporating fully each time. Scrape batter into prepared pan.
  6. In a clean mixing bowl (I wipe down my bowl and whisk attachment with vinegar), whip egg whites until foamy. Add sugar and cinnamon and whip to soft peaks.
  7. Spread the meringue over cake batter, cover with toasted walnuts and bake 35-40 minutes, until the meringue is crackly. Let cake cool completely.
  8. Meanwhile, remove vanilla bean from cream. Add maple syrup and whip cream to soft peaks. Cut cake in half and place one half on a cake plate, meringue side up. Cover with whipped cream. Top with remaining half, meringue side up. You will end up with a 2-layer square cake from your single-layer rectangular cake. (If you're doing this in two round cake pans, just top one with the other.) Let sit 1-2 hours.
  9. To go completely over-the-top, serve with a dark chocolate sauce punched up with a few dashes of walnut bitters.
Jump to Comments (47)

Comments (47) Questions (1)

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about 1 month ago Jane Carrool

My family has made a version of this cake for over 100 years. Family birthday cake - called "Fairy Pie." Old English recipe.

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about 1 month ago kzmccaff

Just made this cake and it was beautiful and delish! I think springform might be the best pan to bake this in, but a normal 9" worked too (I used parchment in both pans, and used coconut spray in one and veg oil in the other--the coconut spray worked better! FYI). I was worried when I put the cake batter in that it wasn't enough batter, but it worked beautifully. Wonderful flavor. The walnut really is what comes through. And the textures are lovely--the crisp / chewy meringue, the creamy whipped cream, the light and crumbly cake, the crunch of the walnut. And if you do as the recipe says and take a few steps the night before, it really is a breeze to pull together!

Happy_alice_in_mexico

2 months ago Eggplayer

I just made this cake, following the recipe to the letter. I baked the cake layers in an 8-inch springform pan. It turned out beautifully. I wish I could post a photo of it. Our book group raved over it. We all agreed that the best part (besides its stunning looks) is enjoying the textures. It was not cloyingly sweet, which we thought was a major plus. I will definitely make it again for a special occasion. I would say that making this cake is not for the faint of heart or the beginner baker. It's a bit tricky getting the cake out of the pans and also cutting into it so that it doesn't fall apart. However, I was able to do it and it was worth all the wringing of hands ;-)

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4 months ago Amber

Just made this cake. Baked it for about 40 minutes in disposable 8 inch round pans that I buttered well. The cake is simply lovely. They were easy to remove from the pans as I just cut the sides and took it out with the help of two spatulas. I'm a bit nervous about the whipped cream making it soggy as I'm preparing this prior to going to a party, but hopefully as we should eat it about 2 hours after adding the whipped cream, it will hold up well. The individual components tasted lovely uncooked...and I'll update on how it held up later.

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4 months ago Amber

Glad to report it turned out quite well. I love the rustic yet impressive look of it. The whipped cream held up nicely for the 2 hours...I popped it in the refrigerator for most of that time to hold the whipped cream in place. I also didn't use all the whipped cream called for. Only 2/3 or so fit in the middle, and it still came oozing out the sides. The flavor was quite nice. The cake layer and whipped cream aren't very sweet, and the meringue layer is quite sweet - so they balance each other out nicely. Next time I think I'll try it with the vanilla/almond flavors.

Oh and a quick tip about making the meringue. I prepped all the ingredients ahead of time, and then I made the meringue first. Afterwards I used the same beaters to make the cake layer. That way, I didn't have to worry about possibly ruining the egg whites if the slightest bit of water/oil was still left on the beaters.

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4 months ago cincoymaya

The cake came out looking beautiful and was easy to unmold and flip which surprised me. I made adjustments for elevation (4800 ft) but it fell a little anyway. The cake was a bit under-baked at 35 min. though I tested it with a wooden skewer. My husband said it was good but not wonderful though I thought it was very good. The major complaint is the whipped cream which I think is making the cake a bit soggy.
I'm looking forward to seeing more of your recipes Aliwakes. Thanks for an interesting cake.

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5 months ago charliesofia

Great cake! I just won huge points at work for bringing it in - thank you! I did have an issue with the cake layers being underbaked however... just wondering if there are any suggestions as to how to test for doneness when the cakes are swathed in meringue. Any ideas? Thanks!

My_catering_(2)

5 months ago Aliwaks

The same thing happened to me the first time I made the original cake, so I actually upped the baking time a few minutes the next time. The last time I made it, I made it in an electric oven and I thought the cake was a bit overdone at 40 min.

So to answer your question...I started just using a wooden or metal skewer to test rather than a toothpick or fork, and have moved some of the meringue out of the way then pushed it back again,

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5 months ago Ceramic

Made this for a birthday celebration earlier this month-- and not one scrap was left at the end of the evening. Used buttered parchment and the cakes left the pans fairly easily after I loosened them with a spatula. Mine also didn't look as gorgeous in the picture, but my dinner guests didn't seem to care. Subbed coconut palm sugar and used half almond flour, half regular. Can't wait for another worthy celebration so I can bake this again.

Moi_1

5 months ago QueenSashy

QueenSashy is a trusted home cook.

it's a truly genius cake... loved it.

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6 months ago Carol Brinkman

I like the taste and look of the cake, but it was very, very dense. Much too heavy for me. I made it in two 8" pans and the meringue flowed over the top of the pans. Interestingly though, I had little difficulty unmolding the pans. Too dense, too labor intensive and not a cake I would make again.

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6 months ago Regine

Correction to prior post. I meant "cake batter" not "cake better."

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6 months ago Regine

Although some Food52ers are suggesting and probably accurately so (from a mathematical point of view) two 8 inch instead of 9 inch pans, I would love to know which size pan was used in that food52 picture of the cake. I am thinking that maybe the cake better is meant to be thin so as to further accentuate the flavor and crispy-ness of the meringue. I have not yet made this cake but I will soon

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6 months ago Kt4

I would also like to know the size of the rounds pans that Food52 used

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6 months ago ENunn

Congratulations, Aliwaks! This looks incredible. I have been dreaming about meringue lately, and this is the answer to those dreams. I am GOING to make time to try this. It's so pretty, too.

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6 months ago Nancy McMurchy

I am 68yrs. & the version with almonds was my mothers favourite cake for special occasions...she called it Almond Torte. I made it for my fathers 80th & it brought tears to his eyes. Thanks so much...I lost my recipe thru the years & delight in being able to create this taste one more time again.

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6 months ago bookjunky

As it looks like someone else pointed out, based on the area of a 9x12" pan (108 sq. in) you should use two 8" pans (50 sq. in each) not two 9" pans (63.5 sq. in each) in order to come closest to the right amount of batter.

The cake itself looks awesome. I saw the original recipe, which looked intriguing, and this looks even more delicious. I hope I can find a pretext to make one soon. It's difficult because I bake too much already for our family of three to keep up with. I need to entertain more!

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6 months ago beccaporter

Should you refrigerate or leave at room temp during the sitting period?

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6 months ago Emil Jeffrey Narciso

Delicious! I had great success using disposable aluminum cake pans -- made for easy extraction. I just cut the foil from around the cake.

My_catering_(2)

6 months ago Aliwaks

Genius!!!!!

My_catering_(2)

6 months ago Aliwaks

Hello... Sorry I've been off line for a few days . Thank you all for you beautiful compliments, as for the concerns;
Kenny: At home I buy and use fresh eggs from the farmers market, and I do not refrigerate my eggs, I keep them out contrary to USDA guidelines, they taste better, I buy what I need so they are rarely out for more than a week (if its really hot out- like in August I will put them in the fridge) and as snotty as it sound to say, it's how they do in Europe and I'm comfortable with it, but you should only do what you are comfortable with.
Letting the egg whites sit out is something I read a fair bit about and I found that my meringues are better when I do it, but they are not bad when I don't. When I create a recipe I think of the best of all possible ways to make a dish, which is not to say that I have not made this cake or one similar in a rush where I did not infuse my cream over night or dry my egg whites. It was still a great cake.

Emma.. Springform would be best, but girl I just made it this weekend using round pans (its is sooo much easier to do the rectangle l pan method but hardly as pretty)..so here's how that played out.. I butter the heck out of them, and then after they had cooled I ran a off set spatula under the meriguie that had come over the edge then worked in around and under, slipping my hands underneath the parchment.. it was a bit scary there for a minute.. I put one layer on a cake plate then eased the other layer on the the rack until i could get i whipped cream under control- it still did not look as pretty as Amanda & Merrill's.

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6 months ago Regine

I agree with Kenny regarding leaving the egg white. utside overnight. Room temperature to slightly warm egg white reach better heights when whipped so I guess this is why she leaves them outside. I prefer to place egg whites in a bowl that sits in warm water maybe 1/2 hour before whipping eggs.

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6 months ago Regine

I myself would use 9 inch springform pans so that I don't have to flip cake when Unmolding.

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6 months ago Regine

Emma the cake batter is supposed to be thin so I think you should have spread it all over the surface of the 9inch pan however thin the layer ended up being.