I was never a big fan of cranberry sauce until the first Thanksgiving I spent with my husband Mike. We had been dating about 8 months by then, and I came down to New York for the long holiday weekend, where the two of us prepared a Thanksgiving feast in his tiny Park Slope kitchen. He made Alain Ducasse’s delicious Peppered Cranberry Marmalade, and it opened my eyes: It was a far cry from the insipid canned stuff I grew up on. This recipe is inspired in part by that recipe, as well as by the Italian condiment mostarda, one of my favorite accompaniments to all sorts of roast meats. It’s tart and a little sweet, with a kick of spice from the ginger and black pepper. —lastnightsdinner
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