Chef and author Magnus Nilsson of rural Sweden’s Fävaken Magasinet, serves little shortbread cookies filled with jam after breakfast and for snacks. His recipe was passed down from an early employee’s grandmother, and in his book, he calls them Douglas’ Shortbread Biscuits. Chef Nilsson prefers “good homemade jams” that have been only minimally cooked. I come from a family of jam makers, so I used what my brothers and I had made and shared—New Hampshire blackberry, Oregon cherry, and California citrus. I also used another family favorite, mountain ash or what Chef Nilsson calls rowanberry. In the States, mountain ash is more often used as a street tree than for jams. Its bittersweet flavor makes for a grown-up cookie.
(This recipe was adapted from Fävaken by Magnus Nilsson, Phaidon, October 2012)
I’m a marine biologist who can get a little overly obsessive about cooking projects. If it involves obscure research, strange and unusual ingredients, and more work than you can imagine—I’m ready to party.