What can you say about a simple potato dish that goes with everything? That it’s the little black dress of side dishes—but wouldn’t that be a cliché? I think it’s best to say that it is a dish I would happily welcome at my table anytime. I can’t think of a meal that would not be improved if served alongside Lyonnaise potatoes. Frankly, as I am writing this, I realize I can’t serve dinner tonight without them. That’s how good they are. —Mimi Thorisson
petite potatoes, peeled
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
onions, thinly sliced
A bunch of fresh parsley, leaves removed and finely chopped
Put the potatoes in a large pot, add enough salted cold water to cover, bring to a boil, and cook until parboiled, 10 to 15 minutes. Drain in a colander and rinse under cool running water. Let cool for a few minutes, then slice the potatoes into 1/8- inch (3- to 4-millimeter) thick slices.
In a large sauté pan, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter. Add about one-quarter of the potatoes and fry, seasoning them with salt and pepper, until golden, about 6 minutes. Transfer to a plate. Continue frying the potatoes, adding more butter each time (you should use about 8 tablespoons in total), until all of them are cooked.
Meanwhile, in another sauté pan, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons butter over medium heat. Cook the onions until golden, about 5 minutes.
Return all of the potatoes to the pan, add the onions, and mix gently. Cook for 5 more minutes for the flavors to combine.
Transfer the potatoes and onions to a large baking dish. Bake until gently sizzling, about 10 minutes. Sprinkle the parsley over the potatoes and serve.
Mimi Thorisson is the author of Manger, a blog devoted to French cooking, and the host of La Table de Mimi on Canal+ in France. After a career in television and having lived in Hong-Kong, Singapore, London, Reykjavik, and Paris, she settled with her photographer husband, five young children, two older stepchildren, and the family's fourteen dogs in a rural farmhouse in Médoc.