Scrambled eggs, my way: fluffy and ruffly, tender and creamy, no mix-ins, no futzing. This goes against common scrambled egg theory—low and slow—and instead opts for lots of brown, almost burnt butter over medium-high heat. The eggs cook almost instantly, which, lucky us, means breakfast (or brinner) that much sooner. —Emma Laperruque
Add the butter to a small skillet (it doesn’t need to be nonstick). Set over medium-high heat. Meanwhile, whisk the eggs with a fork. Let the butter melt, then begin to brown. When you’re worried it’s just about to burn, pour the eggs directly into the fat. Vigorously shake the pan while you use the fork to drag the eggs around—they shouldn’t stick at all. As soon as they’re set—this should take less than a minute—dump them onto a plate. Season with salt and pepper.
Emma is the food editor at Food52. Before this, she worked a lot of odd jobs, all at the same time. Think: stir-frying noodles on the fly, baking dozens of pastries at 3 a.m., and writing about the history of pie in North Carolina. Now she lives in New Jersey with her husband and their cat, Butter. Stay tuned every Tuesday for Emma's award-winning column, Big Little Recipes (also the cookbook in November 2021!). And see what she's up to on Instagram at @emmalaperruque.