Scrambled eggs, my way: fluffy and ruffly, tender and creamy, no mix-ins, no futzing. This goes against common scrambled egg theory—low and slow—and instead opts for lots of brown, almost burnt butter over medium-high heat. The eggs cook almost instantly, which, lucky us, means breakfast (or brinner) that much sooner. —Emma Laperruque
Add the butter to a small skillet (it doesn’t need to be nonstick). Set over medium-high heat. Meanwhile, whisk the eggs with a fork. Let the butter melt, then begin to brown. When you’re worried it’s just about to burn, pour the eggs directly into the fat. Vigorously shake the pan while you use the fork to drag the eggs around—they shouldn’t stick at all. As soon as they’re set—this should take less than a minute—dump them onto a plate. Season with salt and pepper.
Emma was the food editor at Food52. She created the award-winning column, Big Little Recipes, and turned it into a cookbook in 2021. These days, she's a senior editor at Bon Appétit, leading digital cooking coverage. Say hello on Instagram at @emmalaperruque.