Before it broke the internet, avocado toast was the one thing my big brother Kevin made for us all the time. This was in the late '90s, before he moved to California and restaurants would, years later, use it as a crutch on their menus like beet salad with goat cheese. I remember the way an avocado half would make me full; even fuller when I'd smash roasted seaweed snack, sesame oil, and salt into it with a fork. Flecked onto a slice of white plastic bread, it was the most delicious way to satisfy those after-school hunger pangs. —Eric Kim
Eric Kim was the Table for One columnist at Food52. He is currently working on his first cookbook, KOREAN AMERICAN, to be published by Clarkson Potter in 2022. His favorite writers are William Faulkner, John Steinbeck, and Ernest Hemingway, but his hero is Nigella Lawson. You can find his bylines at The New York Times, where he works now as a writer. Follow him on Twitter and Instagram at @ericjoonho.