Author Notes
There’s a certain delight in biting down on a savory, meat-filled pastry, a sort of heart-warming, eyes-to-the-back-of-your-head elation as you savor the teeth-tender filling within, as puffs of steam waft out and streaks of thick stewed sauce dribble down your chin. It’s a culinary comfort that can be found in empanadas, Cornish pasties, and sometimes even in a well-timed Hot Pocket. But the meaty pastry dearest to me, the one that brings me joy each time, is a version popularized in my home country of Malaysia—curry puffs.
A curry puff, better known by its butchered phonetic Malay spelling, karipap, is a flaky, deep-fried dumpling stuffed with curry. The best curry puffs have a pastry shell made of spirals of dough that when deep-fried turn into a crispy, flaky blanket for the curry to nestle within. As for the curry, think nibble-sized cubes of chicken, potatoes, sometimes carrots, and cilantro, cooked down and folded through a thick, rich, cumin-forward Malaysian curry.
I often get my curry puffs from the street-side stalls and Malay restaurants serving them all across Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia’s capital. The best I’ve had so far—and I’ve had many in the 20-odd years I’ve lived here—are the ones sold at a small stall called HOMI. Their curry puffs are boisterously big, with a crackload of crispy folds in the pastry that shatter as you sink your teeth into it.
Since the start of the pandemic, I haven’t had many curry puffs. So, to end my near year-long curry puff drought, I thought to make some for myself, and in the spirit of festive gift-giving, I made extra for friends, family, and whoever is in need of a curry puff pick-me-up. After all, with the many sweet treats that’s sure to grace our kitchens this festive season, a curried pastry could be a much welcomed savory respite.
To make these curry puffs, I like to cook the curry the day before, stirring up a pot of cubed chicken breasts, potatoes, and aromatics, stewing them gently before leaving the curry to thicken overnight in the fridge. Then, the next day, it’s time for the dough. For this, two separate doughs are needed—an “oil dough,” made by combining shortening (or oil) and flour, and a “water dough," which is mainly water and flour. The oil dough will fry up into incessantly crispy layers, while the water dough serves to give the curry puff structure. These two doughs are wrapped together and rolled out, before being spiraled into a log and cut up into individual curry-wrappers. Then, after some deft filling-and-pleating, and after a bubbly bath in the deep-fryer, these golden dumplings are ready to be eaten, and gifted!
While they might not seem like your go-to holiday treat, with this year’s festivities feeling so different, I think it’s the best time to change up our expectations of festive food gifts. So to friends and family, in amongst the candy canes, fruit cakes, and gingerbread men this year, don’t be surprised if you find a pastry bundle of curry, cheer, and joy. —Jun
Test Kitchen Notes
These curry puffs are part of Recipes to Give & Share, a collection of perfectly packable holiday treats that we're sending to our loved ones this year. —The Editors
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