The most controversial and acclaimed dish at the Black family cookout is, hands down, the potato salad. If invited to a family function, you are bound to be prompted with the question, “Who made the [fill in the blank]?” A handful of dishes complete that question, but most commonly, you’ll hear it filled with potato salad.
So why is potato salad so important to Black culture? According to this article exploring its origins, Jeffrey Strickland explains that 19th century German immigrants and enslaved African Americans “enjoyed relatively positive social, economic, and political relations during the mid- to late-nineteenth century.” This openness of exchange set the scene for the potato salad as popular southern staple. Over time the dish has evolved by including ingredients that help stretch the plate and the wallet. Over time the dish has evolved by including ingredients that help stretch the plate and the wallet.
There is no denying that Black people take their potato salad very, very seriously. It’s so coveted that to make sure it is made right, it is assigned to a tried-and-trusted elder for family get-togethers. Everybody knows you don’t eat just anybody’s potato salad!
Depending on the region you are from, we may disagree on minor details like the type of mayo, relish variety, or the inclusion of onions. [If you’re from the South, you’re probably loyal to Duke’s plus a sprinkling of sugar; while contentious, I like Miracle Whip, which brings its own subtle sweetness. But some things are musts all around: Southern potato salad should be a blend of chilled, fork-tender potatoes, dressed in a creamy and tangy sauce made of mayonnaise and mustard, loaded with hard-boiled eggs, and doused with a hefty sprinkle of paprika.
Southern Potato Salad is a crowd-pleaser. Precept upon precept, this cookout-approved version here follows all of big mama’s guidelines and a few extras: a little bit of hot sauce for a kick of spice and color, celery seed to add an earthy freshness that brightens up the salad, chopped celery for crunch and contrast, and a sprinkle of green onion on top (because that’s what my family prefers).
While sometimes contentious, the battle of the potato salad is as simple as its ingredients. At the core, it’s all about ingenuity—making something out of nothing—and showing the people you love how much you care through your food.
This recipe was featured on our new cook-along podcast Play Me a Recipe. Listen as Meiko boils, whisks, and folds her way through this dish, offering tips and backstory along the way. —Meiko And The Dish
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