To my grandmother, matzo brei isn’t just special-occasion food. It’s special, period, be it for breakfast or lunch or dinner, be it during Passover or many months past it, when matzo itself can be less than easy to find. She makes it all the time, “all the time!” she repeated. “It’s one of my favorite meals.” And me too.
Everyone in my family makes matzo brei differently, including me. My grandma prefers oil, my mom and I like butter. My grandma soaks her matzo, my mom and I rinse it under the faucet. My grandma and mom like a one-to-one matzo-to-egg ratio, while I prefer to double up on the latter, for something that blurs the line between pancake and omelet. I also favor whole-wheat matzo, for its malty nuttiness. And I brown the butter for the exact same reason. What seems like a subtle, simple step—one that requires no additional active time—makes all the difference. Many people top their matzo brei with salt and call it a day. And some sleepy mornings I do just that. But other mornings, I opt for maple syrup and cultured butter. Or a sunny egg and snipped chives. Or berry jam and sour cream. Or a squiggle of mayo and shimmy of hot sauce. Because it’s halfway between sweet and savory, matzo brei is the sort of blank canvas you can dress up with whatever you want. If you celebrate Passover, I’d love to know how you and your family make matzo brei—tell me all about it in the comments below. —Emma Laperruque
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