Piscine au Choix

August is the month of vacances in France. Shops, bars, and restaurants close, and locals and tourists alike flock to the south in search of fresh air and warm sun. From Saint-Tropez to Marseille to the villages of the Luberon, people gather around a piscine—French for “swimming pool”—both literally and on the table. In addition to an actual pool, a piscine refers to wine elongated with ice. As revitalizing as its namesake, this drink both stays hyper cool in the summer heat and extends the time it takes to finish a glass so, should you like, you can keep drinking all afternoon, poolside or otherwise.

When it comes to the choice of wine for a piscine, rosé works especially nicely, and is common in the south of France. White wine? Perfectly acceptable. Bubbles? Absolutely. You could also piscine a kir, the classic French apéritif combination of dry white wine and black currant liqueur. Beyond the vin, the key to a superior piscine lies in: quality ice (ideally 1-inch cubes and, if you don’t remember the last time your filled your ice tray, toss it out and freeze fresh or run out and buy a bag); a big glass (oversize, stemmed wineglasses are classic, but any large glass will do); and, perhaps most important, an afternoon with not much else planned. The aim isn’t to inebriate, but rather to linger.

Pour a piscine by a piscine, sure, or on a balcony, a rooftop, at the kitchen table, or wherever else you find yourself this summer. And take your time: Add a bit more ice (keep a small ice bucket nearby), a bit more wine, repeat.