Sourdough Apple Cider Doughnuts

Directions

1. Make the levain (9:00 p.m.)
   
   In the evening, when your sourdough starter is ripe (when you’d typically give it a refreshment), make the levain. In a large jar, combine 72 grams flour, 72 grams water, 29 grams ripe sourdough starter, and 18 grams sugar. Be sure to use a jar with extra headspace for this levain; it will rise quite high and be very bubbly in the morning. Cover the jar and let the levain ripen overnight at warm room temperature (I keep mine around 74°F to 76°F/23°C to 24°C).
2. Mix the dough (9:00 a.m.)
   
   Cut the stick of butter into small pieces, place it on a plate, and set it aside to soften to room temperature. To the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment, add the 530 grams flour, 169 grams apple cider, 127 grams egg, 54 grams sugar, 12 grams salt, ½ teaspoon cinnamon, ¼ teaspoon nutmeg, and ripe levain. Set the mixer to low speed and mix until all the ingredients are combined and no dry bits of flour remain. Turn the mixer up to medium-low and mix for 3 to 5 minutes, until the dough starts to clump around the dough hook. This is a moderately strong dough at this point, but it won’t completely pull away from the bottom of the mixing bowl.
   
   Let the dough rest 10 minutes in the mixing bowl, uncovered.
   
   The butter should be at room temperature by this time (meaning a finger should easily push into a piece with little resistance). With the mixer turned on to low speed, add the butter, one piece at a time, waiting to add the next until the previous is incorporated—this will take between 5 and 10 minutes. Once all of the butter is added, turn the mixer up to medium-low and continue to mix until the dough smooths and once again begins clinging to the dough hook (it can take 2 to 3 minutes). The dough will be cohesive, smooth, and elastic at the end of mixing.
   
   Transfer the dough to another large bowl or container for bulk fermentation.
3. Bulk ferment the dough (9:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m.)
   
   Cover the dough with a reusable airtight cover and let it rise at warm room temperature (76°F/24°C) for a total of 4 hours. During this time, you’ll give the dough one set of “stretches and folds” (see below for an explanation) to give it additional strength. This set is performed 1 hour after the start of bulk fermentation. Set a timer for 1 hour and let the dough rest, covered. After 1 hour, give the dough its only set of stretches and folds.
   
   To stretch and fold: An hour after the start of bulk fermentation, wet your hands, grab the north side of the dough (the side farthest from you), and stretch it up and over to the south side. Then, the south side up to the north. Then, perform two more folds, one from east to west and one from west to east. Finally, let the dough rest, covered, for the remainder of bulk fermentation.
4. Chill the dough (1:30 p.m. to 9:00 a.m. the next day)
   
   Check your dough; after 4 hours, it should have risen in the bulk fermentation container, smoothed out, and be light and fluffy to the touch. Place the covered bulk fermentation container into the refrigerator overnight.
5. Roll and punch the dough (9:00 a.m.)
   
   I like to proof each piece of doughnut dough on a small 4x4-inch parchment square, making frying the doughnuts easier. If you don’t have these, cut a large piece of parchment up into squares. Prepare two half sheet pans (13x18 inches) with these parchment paper squares.
   
   Remove the chilled dough from the refrigerator and uncover. It should be cool and firm to the touch. Moderately flour a work surface and use a bowl scraper to gently scrape the dough out onto the floured surface. Next, flour the top of the dough and, using a rolling pin, roll the dough out to a rough square shape that’s just shy of ½ inch thick. Next, using a circular 3.5-inch biscuit cutter (or inverted mug), cut out 9 medium-sized circles. Then, using a 1.5-inch circular cutter (or shot glass), cut out the center of those circles to make doughnut rings. Transfer each of the large rings to its own parchment square on the prepared baking sheets. The small doughnut holes can also be proofed and fried in the same way. Finally, the scrap dough can be smushed together, re-rolled, and punched out again for 3 to 4 more doughnuts. Cover the half sheet pans with large plastic bags and close, or use plastic wrap to cover (taking care so the wrap doesn’t fall on the dough).
6. Proof the shaped dough (9:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m.)
   
   Proof the dough at a warm temperature (74°F to 76°F/23°C to 24°C is ideal) for about 4 hours to 4 hours 30 minutes. If your kitchen is on the cool side, expect the dough to take longer than 4 hours 30 minutes to proof. Extend the proof time as necessary until the dough rings are well risen and very puffy when poked. Don’t rush the proof; this is a slower-moving dough due to the enrichments.
7. Fry the doughnuts (1:30 p.m.)
   
   Place a medium-sized Dutch oven filled halfway (at least 4 inches) with canola, vegetable, or refined coconut oil on the stove. Using a frying thermometer, heat the oil to 370°F (187°C).
   
   Prepare a sheet pan lined with parchment paper and a wire rack for cooling the fried doughnuts. Additionally, if using, prepare the cinnamon-spice mixture by whisking the sugar and spices together in a medium-sized bowl.
   
   When the oil is warm, fry the pieces of dough in batches of 2 or 3. Using a spider, transfer each dough ring or doughnut hole on the parchment square directly to the oil. After a few seconds, remove the parchment paper below the dough using a pair of tongs; it will loosen and slide right out. Place the paper on a wire rack or a heat-safe plate or bowl and discard once cool. Fry the doughnut for 2 to 3 minutes on each side (the doughnut holes may take less time) until each is light golden brown. To flip each doughnut, use a spider to dunk one side of the doughnut down into the oil, causing it to quickly flip over. Then, using the spider, remove the doughnut to a wire rack to cool. Dunk the fried doughnut in the cinnamon-spice mixture shortly after frying, if desired. Repeat for all the pieces of dough.