This nostalgic fever dream of a cake was inspired by the wondrous Raspberry Cake with Whipped Cream Filling from Shilpa Uskokovic, first published in Bon Appétit in March 2021 (and now as a Genius Recipe on Food52). It’s inspired by the layered fruit and cream cakes in often found in Japanese bakeries, and it's abundantly make-ahead-friendly with layers of delicate, fluffy textures that are all perfectly fine being abandoned in the fridge for hours (and in fact, might prefer it).
Here’s how it came to be: When I first made Shilpa’s cake for my daughter’s third birthday (after she had asked for a pink strawberry cake for months—and yes, Shilpa's cake tastes equally good in strawberry), everyone at the party fell in love with it, except for her. Overwhelmed by her first big gathering, she wanted none of it. She only had eyes for the gelatinas (brightly colored gelatins) brought by our friend Desiree, and tried one in every color. What happened next is how I hope all disagreements with my daughter will go—with understanding, respect, and, ultimately, the discovery of something new.
After I shrugged off my disappointment that we wouldn’t be polishing off Shilpa’s cake together, I remembered a magical jelly experience from my own childhood. The goblets of Jell-O parfait—bouncy, bright cubes suspended in whipped cream like stained glass—in the refrigerated case at a local cafeteria. I couldn’t imagine a more mesmerizing or appetizing dessert then, or even now.
So, to show how riffable Shilpa’s Genius cake template is, I not only wanted to play with the flavors, but add in another light pop of texture that also loves to be served cold. (For the record, at her fourth birthday this year, my daughter devoured Shilpa’s pink cake.) Her first reaction to my riff? No, thank you. But, the second time I made it, she tried it and liked it—just not as much as Shilpa’s original pink wonder.
A few tips: Agar agar is used in many desserts in Asian cuisines, from Filipino halo-halo to Taiwanese bubble tea, as well as vegan baking—because it’s derived from red algae, it's a great vegetarian alternative to gelatin. I also find it easier and more forgiving to work with than gelatin. You can buy agar agar online, at Asian grocery stores, and at health food stores (sometimes in the bulk bins). It’s worth seeking out the powder form so it’s easiest to work with, but make sure agar is the only ingredient for full-gelling potency. (If you can only find other forms, there are helpful tutorials online.) Agar won’t have the same bounce as gelatin, but a delightful texture of its own. If you want the bounce, feel free to make old-fashioned Jell-O, or try a homemade version like the one in Amanda Hesser’s Blackberry Jello Fluff.
Have fun playing with different juices and fruits and other mix-ins, but use caution when it comes to highly acidic juices like citrus because these may not set at all, or you might need to add more agar. If all else fails, you can test the set by putting a couple spoonfuls in the freezer briefly and, unlike gelatin, you can always re-melt, tweak the ratio of agar to liquid, and set again. —Kristen Miglore
Cake adapted from Shilpa Uskokovic for Bon Appétit. Jellies adapted from Manjula’s Kitchen.
Do ahead: Cake can be baked 1 day ahead; store tightly wrapped at room temperature, or freeze up to 1 week. If frozen, thaw in the refrigerator overnight before using. Cake (without crushed raspberry topping) can be assembled 1 day ahead; cover loosely and chill. Any extra jellies will keep for up to a week tightly sealed in the fridge.
—Food52
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