Smoked Spareribs With Ranch-BBQ Sauce

Directions

1. Make the rub: In a bowl, whisk together all the ingredients until well combined. Place the rib racks on a large rimmed baking sheet, bone side up. If the ribs still have silver skin membrane attached, use a dinner knife to pry it up on one corner, then, using a paper towel, grab the membrane and gently pull it off. Trim any excess fat from the ribs. Coat the racks all over with the spice rub, especially the meatier side. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to overnight.
2. Remove the ribs from the refrigerator while you prepare a water smoker or grill for indirect cooking over very low heat (225°F to 250°F). Cover the grill and let it come to temperature. If using wood chips, drain them. Add the wood chips or chunks to the grill. Replace the cooking grate and brush clean. Place the ribs, meaty side up, on the cooking grate over indirect heat. Smoke with the lid closed until the ribs are very tender, about 5 hours. Change the position of each rib rack about once an hour, turning and rotating them so they cook evenly. Keep a close eye on the temperature, and if it begins to drop, add a few more pieces of charcoal (you can also light half a chimney on a heatproof surface first).
3. Make the sauce: In a medium saucepan over medium heat, warm the oil. Add the onion and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring, until the onion softens and starts to brown, about 7 minutes. Stir in the ketchup, beer, vinegar, Worcestershire, sugar, molasses, 1 teaspoon salt, black pepper, and red pepper flakes. Bring the ingredients to a simmer, then reduce the heat to low and cook, stirring occasionally, until the flavors meld, about 15 minutes. Use an immersion blender or transfer the sauce to a blender and blend until puréed (or leave as is if you prefer a chunkier sauce). Season with more salt, vinegar, or red pepper flakes, if you like. You should have about 4 cups of sauce. (The sauce can be made up to 1 week in advance; cool completely and store in an airtight container in the refrigerator.)
4. The ribs are done when the meat is very tender, has pulled back from the bones, and the meat tears away easily when a rack is lifted with tongs, about 5 ½ hours. Brush the racks on both sides with a thick, even layer of sauce. Cover the grill and continue to cook until crisp and sticky, about 10 minutes. Brush with more sauce, then transfer to a cutting board. Let rest for about 5 minutes before cutting each rack into individual ribs. Serve right away with the remaining sauce on the side.