Ephemera

Please Don't Do This to Your Pesto

July 25, 2017

While researching the least-obtrusive substitute for pine nuts in pesto (I know you can add walnuts, almonds, cashews, sunflower seeds, pepitas—but I wanted something that would be quiet about its presence), I came across a Serious Eats discussion on the very question.

The forum has no shortage of pesto opinions and information (did you know sunflower seeds produce a grayish pesto?) and I was nodding my head along, amassing ideas, until I got to this answer (reminder of the question: "Pine nuts substitute for pesto?")...

For the purpose of anonymity, I've removed any identifying information for the user.

..."Dude, anything"?! Can anything really be the answer to this question?

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I admire the can-do attitude. I welcome recipe experimentation. I'm all about doing things "any which way" and "subbing in what you've got" (see: my path to this online discussion in the first place; see: this article I wrote a long time ago called "11 Ways to Get Creative with Pesto"; see: the weirdness of every single meal I make for myself))—but within reason.

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Top Comment:
“And garlic!!”
— Louise
Comment

Forget about tradition, that's fine (I'm all for bucking tradition! I throw tradition to the wind! I eat lentil bolognese, happily!). But (often more important to the eating experience), don't forget about taste. Personally, I'm having a hard time conceptualizing how candied almonds or oven-roasted peanuts would, you know, taste good blended into a pesto—unless you doctor that pesto in many, many other ways and use it for a completely different application. And at that point, its relationship to pesto is tenuous at best. I'll add walnuts, almonds, even—at the expense of the color—sunflower seeds. But when the substitution completely alters the flavor profile, the texture, the way it can be used, is it still a substitution? (May I remind you of pea guacamole, a controversy stirred up one year ago this month?)

You cannot add honey-roasted peanuts to basil leaves, olive oil, and cheese and expect pesto (same goes for Yahtzee dice or chocolate-covered macadamia nuts).

I ask you: Where does creativity end and madness begin? When have we gone too far? With experimenting and playing and running around, screaming "WOOOOOOOOO!" with our arms in the air, waving wildly back and forth, like we're at some sort of underground rave, adding literally anything to our precious basil leaves?

Could this actually be a very good idea? I invite your opinions in the comments below.

EDITOR'S NOTE: This story originally ran in July of last year. We're republishing it because, well, it's always a good idea to reignite some healthy, vigorous discussion!

See what other Food52 readers are saying.

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170 Comments

cookycat August 12, 2023
Love pesto, love pine nuts. However, I can no longer eat pine nuts because I get "pine mouth." Yes, it is a real thing. So now sadly I use walnuts which are good but just not the same.
 
Anonymous July 29, 2023
Commenting only about the cost of pine nuts: Places such as Costco sell it for a very good price. I freeze the nuts (like I do other nuts) till I am ready to use them.
 
Mandy July 27, 2023
This is probably going to piss someone off, but lately I have been making “pesto” by same process but I use spinach, macadamia nuts, Parmesan cheese, oil, garlic and seasonings. It’s DELICIOUS! I did it once because I had the spinach surplus and other items on hand and it’s become a regular staple.
 
arielcooks July 25, 2023
Wow! Sarah, you are right about the definitional grounds. But I'd love to know how to make pistachio nuts (undyed) into a pesto, to be used for pesto purposes. Perhaps pounded with a bit of fresh tomato and eggplant? Olive oil, of course. But would the herb(s) be basil and parsley? Feta, maybe? And would it need a squeeze lemon? A squeeze of orange? What?
 
Ann S. July 26, 2023
I just made pesto with pistachios no cheese…delicious if a bit heftier
 
Louise July 26, 2023
Pistachios go great with sage. I make a great pizza with pistachio pesto. - pistachios, sage, olive oil, salt and pepper, parmesan. Often chili flakes too. Great on burgers too (delicious made creamy with a spoonful of creme fraiche stirred in!)
 
Louise July 26, 2023
And garlic!!
 
Ann S. July 26, 2023
always garlic
 
Miche July 26, 2023
I have seen recipes with pistachio and basil and recipes with pistachio and mint. Just google, you will find many variations.
 
arielcooks July 26, 2023
Thanks for the guidance!
 
arielcooks July 26, 2023
I have to try your pistachio pizza soon! (As soon as this heat dome leaves, I mean.)
 
Miche July 25, 2023
I'm sort of curious to try a pistachio/mint/lemon zest "pesto" I read about. But it should probably have a different name!
 
carol July 25, 2023
Reading these comments make me laugh - there's nothing wrong with experimenting and riffing on traditional recipes. I know most Italians would disagree - I'm Italian. I get it.
I'll bet anything this combo would be delicious - but easy on the mint...mint tends to overpower. IMHO.
 
Culinaryrocktv August 6, 2020
Just don’t call that thin oily green crap “pesto”,Michelin hopefuls! Spooned, dolloped, piped from a bag, I can dig it. Just not drizzled! The boundaries of recipes are found just before goose turd and port salut creme anglaise. We need to get back to the purity of it all. Fusion is abominable now. I mean for goodness sakes! Greek poké?! C’mon!!!!
 
arielcooks August 6, 2020
I also think of pesto as a method. The best application of the method "outside the box" I ever had, was garlic, walnuts, and olive oil (no herbs) crushed together and eaten with whole-wheat pitas. It was sensational. But it was vaguely the pesto method, rather than the actual pesto itself.
 
Nicole D. June 11, 2019
I forgot garlic too. Nothing else, don’t make something that is so simple and delicious, fanciful.
 
Nicole D. June 11, 2019
Pesto is not pesto if you do not use: basil, pine nuts, olive oil, parmagiano reggiano. Stop exchanging basil with kale and pine nuts with walnuts. Stop the fusion cuz real pesto is the besto.
 
Inditoo June 18, 2019
Actually the dish originates from Romans who would add vinegar on to the base of garlic, nuts, oil & cheese. So even the traditional sauce you speak of is a variation of its original predecessor lost to history. It’s not fusion. Ingredients work together in different ways. Take the variation on caprese at Eleven Madison Park. The ingredients are utterly traditional, tomato, basil, olive oil. But the application is brilliant. Mozzarella ice cream, cherry tomato confit, basil leaves & flowers (actually a far more flavorful part of the plant), and a provencal granola. As long as the flavors work, who cares about the name you give to it? I almost guarantee I can make a Thai pesto as good as its Italian counterpart simply because many similar ingredients translate perfectly in that specific dish.
 
KitKat84 August 9, 2020
Authentic pesto doesn't need to have Parmigiano-Reggiano in it. According to Donna Klein, author of The Mediterranean Vegan Kitchen, the Italian households that can't afford cheese don't add it to their pesto.
 
Miche July 25, 2023
In French, there is pistou, which is just basil, olive oil and garlic, no nuts or cheese.
 
Inditoo June 10, 2019
Well if reordering ingredients and application makes the relationship to pesto “tenuous at best,” I guess that makes restaurants like Tickets, Werneckhof, Momofuku, Cosme purveyors of “tenuous” cuisine? Our restaurant served a ginger jalapeño sorbet this weekend as part of an entree special. Does that make its relationship to sorbet tenuous? Because we jiggered with traditional ingredients and application? No. Pesto is a name for a sauce that includes nuts, basil, oil & cheese. The great thing about three of those ingredients is precisely the vastness of their application. Just a simple change from traditional basil to Thai sweet basil can totally open up the possibility of the sauce into a new world. Olvera’s broccoli mole is still mole. It contains serrano, pepitas, cinnamon, cumino. There are no boundaries but flavor. Make those work and call it whatever you want. If you can make a crema that has no dairy that looks and acts like a crema call it a crema.
 
Liz August 10, 2017
I had an excess of Nasturtium leaves and made a pesto with them. Quite tasty.
 
Liz August 10, 2017
If you want the best Pesto ditch the machine and use a Mortar and Pestle.
The releasing of the Basil and other flavors far more intense when you do it old school. Do this right away.
 
chezcarol July 30, 2017
My favorite substitution is toasted almonds and half spinach, half basil :)
 
JIm July 30, 2017
I agree with substituting for the pine nuts. To me, they are not all that flavorful. I also agree with the addition of lemon juice and or zest. I have also omitted nuts altogether at times. It is hard to improve upon basil garlic olive oil and lemon as a combo, but almonds and especially pistachios are my favorites.
 
WHB July 26, 2017
With nut allergies in the house, I've used toasted sunflower seeds and pepitas. Once (in a pinch, desperate really) I used those roasted soy nuts!
 
J.D. S. July 30, 2017
Agreed on the toasted sunflower seeds (I use unsalted, and keep them in the fridge to avoid them going rancid) and pepitas (again roasted/toasted.)
 
Kathy D. July 26, 2017
Frankly, I find these discussions (by "purists") to be a waste of time. Dishes and methods develop and nothing is carved in stone. As far as I'm concerned, a pesto is any mixture with greens, nuts, garlic and oil and "pesto" is really only a definition. If someone puts together a ridiculous mélange, it's obvious. We could have this discussion about polenta (a dish, not an ingredient), for example....with people pontificating that it must be made from such and such corn meal from Italy. But, if you look at it's history, it was made from many basic grains historically: http://www.thekitchn.com/whats-the-difference-between-cornmeal-and-polenta-word-of-mouth-211404 . So, there you go.....
 
Windischgirl July 26, 2017
After suffering a smackdown last summer for wanting to make a "grilled ratatouille" and being told (by Food52-ers) that it couldn't be done because it didn't follow classical guidelines, I'm voting NO NO NO.
So if it strays from ingredients that traditionally grow in Italy, call it 'herb sauce'. DON'T call it 'pesto'.
BTW, my 'Grilled Vegetable Melange in the Provençal Style' was delicious.
 
Mark G. September 6, 2018
I have been making a grilled Ratatouille for more than a decade and everyone loves it. It is standard fare at neighborhood gatherings.
 
Erin A. July 25, 2017
Pesto is a crushed sauce, likely from the Italian "pestare"--to crush. With a mortar and pestle. Traditional may be basil, pine nuts, romano, olive oil, but as with any food that is made frequently, at-hand ingredients will inevitably appear. A sauce is recognizable as pesto when it has the traditional proportions of greens (or reds, like roasted peppers or sun-dried tomatoes), cheese, nuts, and olive oil, and is crushed or blended. The selection of which ingredients to use just requires some forethought into what works together. I've made it with wilted kale and pecans (only available nuts) with a lemon juice addition for brightness, with walnuts or sunflower seeds (toasted, both) when pine nuts were too expensive, etc. No one ever complained it wasn't "pesto," because it was. Trapanese pesto is my absolute favorite, and good for when there isn't quite enough basil in the garden for the all-basil variety. Just try to enjoy food and the generous cooks who make it for you--semantics are interesting but limiting.
 
arielcooks September 5, 2016
We've also enjoyed a garlic-and-walnut paste served in whole-wheat pitas with shredded lettuce. The cook said it was Middle Eastern. We really loved it!
 
Kathy D. September 5, 2016
That might be skordalia: http://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/5681-skordalia-garlic-walnut-sauce
 
arielcooks September 5, 2016
It was prepared by an anthropologist who had enjoyed it in the Middle East (can't recall the country). It had no lemon or vinegar, and no breadcrumbs. The NYT skordalia rx looks delicious -- thanks!
 
Kathy D. September 5, 2016
You're welcome! I first had it with a dish called Mushakan (chicken with lots of onions & sumac)....delicious!!
 
Maria September 5, 2016
My dad is from Genova and has made pesto since he was a child. He always uses walnuts, which leads me to say that "traditional" Italian food is more about how your family prepared food and enjoying that food with your family and less about sticking to a recipe. So if someone wants to use honeyroasted peanuts, who cares? If they've found a way to make it taste good, regardless of what they have to add to it, good for them. That's their spin, and I will continue to enjoy my family's spin on pesto.
 
arielcooks September 4, 2016
Roasted peanuts in pesto? Sure, if, instead of olive oil, you use sesame oil, and instead of basil, you add cilantro, and instead of cheese, you throw in some minced chillies. Now employ the result to dress hot or cold Asian noodles. It's not actually "pesto," per se, but it is ... a delicious noodle dressing!
 
carol September 4, 2016
sounds good to me!
 
Babette's S. September 4, 2016
I've always been bordering on religious about using only pine nuts to replicate an authentic as possible native Ligurian pesto, but as many have noticed, pine nuts can be pretty expensive these days. I've used almonds or walnuts before, or with pine nuts to "stretch" them, but this past year I tried raw sunflower seeds and I was actually surprised how (to me) they seemed to replicate the taste and texture of pine nuts more than almonds or walnuts. I've never tried hazelnuts or any other type of nut in traditional basil pesto. Here's what Wikipedia says:
"Pesto is thought to have two predecessors in ancient times, going back as far as the Roman age. The ancient Romans used to eat a similar paste called moretum, which was made by crushing garlic, salt, cheese, herbs, olive oil and vinegar together:[1][5] the use of this paste in the Roman cuisine is even mentioned in the Appendix Vergiliana, an ancient collection of poems where the author dwells on the details about the preparation of moretum.[5] During the Middle Ages, a popular sauce in the Genoan cuisine was agliata, which was basically a mash of garlic and walnuts, as garlic was actually a staple in the nutrition of Ligurians, especially for the seafarers.[1]
The introduction of basil, the main ingredient of modern pesto, occurred in more recent times and is first documented only in the mid-19th century, when gastronomist Giovanni Battista Ratto published his book La Cuciniera Genovese in 1863:[1]
"Take a clove of garlic, basil or, when that is lacking, marjoram and parsley, grated Dutch and Parmigiano cheese and mix them with pine nuts and crush it all together in a mortar with a little butter until reduced to a paste. Then dissolve it with good and abundant oil. Lasagne and troffie are dressed with this mash, made more liquid by adding a little hot water without salt. [6]"
 
bellw67 September 4, 2016
I didn't have quite enough basil for my pesto so I topped it up with parsley. Oh, and pine nuts are ridiculously expensive where I live so I used ground almonds. The rest was the same. It was delish.
 
Maria T. September 4, 2016
If I make an avocado, oats, quinoa and nuts hamburger, just because it has the format of a hamburger, can I call it a Traditional American Hamburger?!
PESTO ALLA GENOVESE is a raw sauce made with Pinenuts, Basil, Garlic, Cheese and Olive Oil. If you want to make other variations of raw sauces go ahead but call them what they are: eg Spinach and Almond Pesto so you don't get the reader confused.
 
Kathy D. September 4, 2016
And you can still call it a pesto. The origins of cooking and combinations are never as carved in stone as people would like to believe. As KelleyJay said (6 posts ago): "So the Pesto Police have drawn the line? My family comes from Tuscany, Italy. They used walnuts in place of pine nuts over there and when they came here. They substituted other nuts, depending on what wa
 
Kathy D. September 4, 2016
(Continuing from above).....depending on what was available. Many different kinds of nuts and herbs are used in every region in Italy. Pesto Genovese is the pesto of the Genoa province. Who cares if someone wants to experiment with different ingredients? Not everyone can, or wants to, eat the same things. I say go ahead, have fun, and cross that line." As for your analogy with the "traditional American hamburger", it just isn't analogous, because these various "pastes" in Italy didn't originate in one place...they evolved, so that the basil/pine nut version is one of many, but the one that came to be well known....for whatever reason.
 
Steven W. September 4, 2016
I think there's a limit to adding things to a basic recipe. It has to retain some of it's original ingredients or you've simply created something new. The very nature of cooking is to use what you have and make it as good as you can--it doesn't even have to be the same way twice, in my opinion. I have NO problem calling it a Southern Pesto (it sounded good actually) but lets not get crazy! I stand by Julia. Everything in moderation--including adding too much "stuff."
 
shy August 16, 2016
ice cream yum
 
shy August 16, 2016
always a better cook
 
Scribbles August 11, 2016
Last year I started growing lovage in my herb garden - it's prolific! So I decided to try a 'pesto' made with lovage - big hit! We love it - I've made it with just lovage; lovage and basil; and lovage, basil and mint - all very good. I do use walnuts, not pine nuts. Great with penne and roasted heirloom tomatoes.
 
KellyJay July 20, 2016
So the Pesto Police have drawn the line? My family comes from Tuscany, Italy. They used walnuts in place of pine nuts over there and when they came here. They substituted other nuts, depending on what was available. Many different kinds of nuts and herbs are used in every region in Italy. Pesto Genovese is the pesto of the Genoa province. Who cares if someone wants to experiment with different ingredients? Not everyone can, or wants to, eat the same things. I say go ahead, have fun, and cross that line.
 
Frederique M. July 18, 2016
I really don't see what the fuss is about. If Pesto is described as "paste" from herbs and nuts in a mortar in pestle, NOTHING stops the ingredients from changing. Being a purist makes for a boring menu - I for example would put on a pedestal who ever tried eating cheese popcorn mixed with caramel popcorn and made it the "chicago mix". It's a dream come true of sweet and salty! Though i still think pesto should have at least garlic, herbs or aromatics (sun dried tomato is the bomb), and a nut of some type, I think the sky is the limit! I make garlic scape pesto all the time and i LOVE IT! Hey, if they can call a panko deep fried patty of rice topped with mayonaise laden raw fish "sushi pizza" then pesto doesn't have to be all basil and pine nuts!
 
KitKat84 July 18, 2016
I grow my own basil specifically for making pesto. After making basil pesto with substitutions (walnuts, almonds) I decided it's worth it to just use pine nuts. This year I got pine nuts 50% off at the bulk store and put them in the freezer until ready to use. However, I do have a cilantro pesto recipe from vegetariantimes.com that is excellent (though may not technically be a pesto?). It uses cilantro, almonds, canola oil, lime juice. It's delicious. I just use that most of the time. Then when I make traditional pesto it is that much more special.
 
Pat S. July 18, 2016
I have used roasted pistachios & found that they compliment the flavors quite well, adding just a hint of sweetness.
 
Frank P. July 18, 2016
Quinoa. I found a way to make Romesco by replacing the almonds with quinoa since my new gf is allergic to almonds. She absolutely loves it.
 
Ellen T. July 18, 2016
would love to try this...sounds way healthier/cheaper than almonds!
 
Erik W. July 18, 2016
This reminds me of what happened to the Martini after the success of the Cosmo. Suddenly ANYTHING in a tall, stemmed glass became a "martini". But it ain't so. Be creative ... just give it a new name.
 
Steven W. September 4, 2016
Exactly...there are 34 billion martini's out there these days and the original seems to me to be the best.
 
maggie September 4, 2016
yes, yes, yes!
 
Rochelle W. July 18, 2016
One of my favorite restaurants in Tucson is at the Desert Museum. Their 'take' on pesto is swapping out the basil with cilantro and the pine nuts with roasted pistachios. It is amazing and is one of the few menu items that never changes. They serve it normally as an appetizer with freshly made pita bread. While I love traditionally made pesto, this is such a great taste that Inalways, always order it.
 
Joy R. July 17, 2016
I'm somewhat a purist - pesto is savory, not sweet. Why add sweetness to a dish that is garlicky? My version is all basil. garlic ( both roasted and fresh variations), pecans, sea salt, fresh rosemary, olive oil. I've used garlic scapes as well. I will not add other herbs or greens - it has to be all basil for me. I grow 4 varieties of basil and use them all in my pesto. I used to use Parmigiano cheese, but this year's batches are cheese-free. I add Parmigiano to a pasta dish, but I kind of like it without the cheese. I also like my pesto a little coarser, so it's more chunky. My friends all crave my pesto. I make big batches, label them with the date I made them and freeze it.
 
caterfran July 17, 2016
I think you're opening up a can of worms. Or do you just want to get infinite pesto ingredient comments. Just to add my two cents i never add pinenuts. Most come from China and i'm not comfortable using them. I go withkkyrdk minus the cauliflower.
 
Jeffrey T. July 17, 2016
Hazelnuts.
 
kyradk July 17, 2016
I, gasp, skip the nuts altogether and just go with basil, olive oil, garlic, lemon juice, Romano/Parmesan. Still does the trick for me because basil. I did add cauliflower once to get some hidden veggies in and it was pretty delish.
 
Kathy D. July 17, 2016
Edit: The point of the article is TO discourage people from putting ridiculous ingredients together.
 
Kathy D. July 17, 2016
"Pesto" comes from the verb "to pound"......so call anything that doesn't contain the traditional ingredients whatever you want. It doesn't prevent them from being delicious and from being used in the same way. Nothing is carved in stone. By the way, your link is just an opinion, as there is no definitive legislation that I know of :) This is someone's blog, not an academic document. The point of the article is not to discourage people from putting ridiculous ingredients together.
 
Francesca July 17, 2016
It is my blog. Italians do attempt to apply DOC or controls over some of their culinary traditions, so no, it's not just an opinion. My point is that the English word 'paste' might well be applied to other combinations rather than using the original word 'pesto' which applies to the Genovese and original version.
 
tamater S. July 18, 2016
I very much like that suggestion.
 
Francesca July 17, 2016
Don't mess with tradition. If you want to whack any old thing in a 'pesto' call it a dip, a paste, a puree or another English word- there are plenty to choose from without bastardizing the Italian language and its culinary traditions. My views can be found here. https://almostitalian.wordpress.com/2013/10/30/pesto-imposters/
 
DragonFly July 17, 2016
Wow, this is a beautiful website, thanks for sharing!
 
Kathy D. July 18, 2016
I am not contesting the use of the word "pesto" really....although....you could call other combinations "variations on pesto". And whether Italians have "attempted" to apply DOC or not to the traditional combination is neither here nor there. I think in general, when people think of pesto, it is the original version. But, once again, that's not what the article is about.
 
Elizabeth M. July 18, 2016
Even in Italy (and not just recently), pesto does not have to contain basil to be called pesto. And traditional pestos at that. I gather that these aren't variations on pesto. They are simply pesto.

Perhaps, when North Americans think of pesto, they think of basil pesto because that's the kind of pesto that became prevalent in North America. But take a look at the following:

"Liguria does not have a monopoly on pesto. [...] [E]ven among green pestos the ingredients can change from region to region and can include other "greens" such as broccoli, flat-leaf parsley and even mint. [...] Red pesto, which contains either fresh or sun-dried tomatoes, has become very popular and is sold alongside its green counterpart in Italy and abroad. The variety made in the Cinque Terre adds sun-dried tomatoes to an otherwise traditional pesto, but it takes on a whole new character from the intense, bright yet earthy flavor of the tomatoes. Sicilian pestos are a whole different world and can contain ingredients like capers, chilies, raisins, anchovies, fennel and mint. [...] [M]any regional pestos, green or red combine or substitute the expensive pine nuts with a locally grown nut such as pistachios or, as in the popular Trapanese pesto from Sicily, almonds." - Justin Demetri, Pesto, Life in Italy http://www.lifeinitaly.com/food/pesto.asp

"Pesto genovese is not the only authentic Italian pesto. Pesto rosso is made with sun-dried tomatoes and almonds, while versions from Southern Italy favor sweet red peppers or cherry tomatoes. [...] What all traditional pestos have in common, and what defines a pesto as a pesto is that the ingredients are crushed with a mortar and pestle." - Pantry Essentials: All About Pesto, Serious Eats http://www.seriouseats.com/2014/03/pantry-essentials-all-about-pesto.html

"[R]ecords show that in the past, pesto was sometimes made with substitutions like parsley and marjoram, even butter, in Liguria. People in the mountains added cream from their cows; in certain coastal towns pesto contained (and still does) a bit of tangy local fresh cheese called prescinseua. And while many people today prefer and can afford Parmigiano's delicate flavor, the grandmothers usually used salty pecorino in their pesto because the cheese that came on boats from Sardinia was far more accessible and cheaper than that which came across mountain roads from Parma. Similarly, local walnuts were common instead of pignoli from Pisa, which became the norm after the second World War, when more people could afford to put pricier ingredients in their pesto. Before that, Sergio says, 'People used what they had.'" - Laura Schenone, Glorious Pesto, SAVEUR Magazine No.140
 
petalpusher July 18, 2016
Thank you Elizabeth M!
 
Kathy D. July 18, 2016
Yes, thank you Elizabeth M. This is exactly the point I was trying to make about "traditionalism". Most ethnic preparations & dishes have evolved in an organic way...depending upon the ingredients available and local tastes. And I find the process and the differences fascinating. As a result, to be too rigid about them lessens their vitality. This evolution is what is so wonderful about cooking. What the article is trying to do is discourage people from being silly, frankly, and just throwing anything together without any sense.
 
Cristina T. July 17, 2016
Here in Brazil pinoli are imported and very expensive, way more than walnuts and others which are already expensive.
I go with cashew nuts: they're neutral enough and give your pesto the right consistency.
Brazilian nuts also do the job.
 
petalpusher July 18, 2016
Lucky you! Fresh oven roasted cashews for the pesto? Brazil nuts? Sounds delicious. I will try these soon.
 
petalpusher July 17, 2016
The ONLY way candied peanuts would work is if you concocted a Thai pesto with cilantro, basil, garlic, ginger, Thai pepper, a little fish sauce, the peanuts and olive and coconut oil.... slurry over shredded green papaya? MMmmmm. Pesto is the world of summer.
 
Tim T. July 17, 2016
That sounds pretty amazing, actually (with dry roasted, not candied, peanuts).

But agreed, it ain't pesto.
 
petalpusher July 18, 2016
Actually, when I refer to a candied peanut, I was thinking of the honey dry roasted version. And duh, its not pesto in the traditional sense, but as home cooks who have an arsenal of flavors in their pantry and garden, you are more apt to find a way to make the most of the ingredients you have on hand - even the sweet peanut.
 
Andrea J. September 4, 2016
I think that would also be good with Thai basil if it's available.
 
Kathy D. July 17, 2016
It's a matter of common sense....like all cooking!!! A green herb, a nut, oil, a strong seasoning (garlic etc) and cheese. Supposedly, the traditional pesto originated in Genoa....according to Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org /wiki/Pesto I assume this must be true. However, that said, there are all kinds of similar preparations...like Argentine chimchurri...for example. People get so hung up on "the right" this or that. No 2 grandmothers ever made a traditional dish the same way.
 
Tonia S. July 17, 2016
So agree! Can quickly turn it into something not pesto. And the basil leaves are sacred and deserve utmost respect. That said I frequently sub pine nuts for hemp seeds with delicious results.
 
carol July 17, 2016
beware of pine nuts imported from asia ---http://www.latimes.com/local/abcarian/la-me-ra-bad-taste-in-my-mouth--20140722-column.html
 
Magnus T. July 17, 2016
I be beware of any food from china
 
Mm July 17, 2016
Yes definitely.
 
Sharon July 18, 2016
Oh yeah.
 
Stacy R. July 17, 2016
I ran out of pine nuts halfway through a big end of season pesto making session last fall and ended up subbing in hazelnuts. They were slightly creamier, but overall delicious!
 
Berkeley July 17, 2016
My daughter cannot eat pine nuts, and I cannot eat almonds. The last time I made pesto I used pistachios, but otherwise traditional ingredients. They add a sweetness that needs a little tempering, but it's pretty darn good. And it's a really beautiful green.
 
gg July 17, 2016
I use pine nuts when I can get a friend to bring the back from Spain or Italy, but otherwise i like lightly and i mean lightly toasted slivered almonds
 
Barbara R. July 17, 2016
I found a recipe 25 plus years ago for a sage walnut pesto that was supposed to be served inside a brie round. I found that sauteing the sage in the olive oil first improved the recipe as the sage can be quite medicinal in flavor. It is an excellent excuse to grow sage. Here is the original recipe:
3/4 cup toasted walnuts, 2 cups tightly packed sage, 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese, dash white pepper, dash salt, 1/2 cup olive oil. Process walnuts until ground. Add sage, cheese, pepper and salt. With food processor running, add olive oil through feed until well blended.
 
John S. July 17, 2016
Good excuses to grow sage? It is AWESOME. It is perhaps the prettiest, easiest to grow herb (Rosemary is easier, but not as pretty. several are pretty, but require work). Great in almost ANY Fall or winter soup, stew, casserole. Evergreen and tasty year round. SO no maintenance, evergreen, tasty, looks pretty with pretty purple flowers twice per year (in Nashville at least). No excuse necessary?
 
petalpusher July 17, 2016
the flowers are delicious too! I concur JSM, sage is AWESOME.
 
John S. July 17, 2016
@petalpusher--I have never tried the flowers. Quick 411 on how you use them?
 
Laura415 July 17, 2016
Can you give the recipe for your sage walnut pesto? I usually do a 4 herb pesto with the traditional ingredients otherwise. However, I had a creamy walnut/parmesan pesto in Italy and I'd love to duplicate it. Maybe it had sage in it and your recipe could be the one:)
 
petalpusher July 18, 2016
They have a light sage flavor with a hint of sweetness. I pluck them straight off the plant for a garden snack. And use them to liberally garnish pork loin, baked salmon, herb deviled eggs and white cheddar dishes. Snip the stem of flowers down to the first set of leaves and pull the blossoms off right onto your dish. You will be competing with bees and hummingbirds for these little purple wonders, but you probably already know that.
 
Terri July 19, 2016
Love sage, always have it i my garden. Looks beautiful in bouquets, too! So fragrant! I like to make small bouquets of sage, rosemary, thyme , (no parsley, lol) and lavender and place in my home, esp. Kitchen and bathrooms.
 
petalpusher July 19, 2016
Yep, the parsley leaves are too wimpy to hang with the others. Their fragrance matches their unique design. Another sage wonder is a tea made from or dry leaves soothes sore throats, especially from tonsillitis. Great for kids with a little honey and lemon before bedtime.
 
petalpusher July 19, 2016
above ^ that would be fresh or dried sage leaves.
 
Terri July 19, 2016
Thanks! Never thought ofusing sage in a tea!
 
Beth A. July 17, 2016
I'm so glad for this article because my grandson (who has a stellar palate) has just developed an allergy to pine nuts. I'll try it with almonds since he isn't allergic to those. So far at least. I'm with you about taste being paramount.
 
Tom July 17, 2016
Cooks illustrated adds a couple tablespoons parsley, but I believe it's to help keep the green color.

One of Oprah's cooks wrote a cookbook for lighter cooking. In it, she substituted lemon juice for the olive oil. It was really good. I've adjusted it so that I substitute 1/2 the oil with lemon juice. It's the only way I make pesto now.
 
I found two examples of what one might consider deviations on the classic pesto which most likely came from the Genoa. Both offer the option for walnuts as a substitute and use both pine nuts and walnuts and the first presented adds 4oz. of pancetta. Interestingly enough they both use a combination of Romano and Parmigiano cheese.
The first is from Giuliano Bugialli's Classic Techniques of ITALIAN COOKING, pg.160

1 1/2 cups olive oil
12 walnuts shelled
2 TBS pingnoli (pine nuts)
4 oz. pancetta
3 heaping TBS of boiled and chopped Spinach
3 cloves peeled garlic
4 oz. parmigiano cheese
4 oz. Sardo or Romano cheese
Salt and ground pepper

Recipe II is from The Cooking of Italy by Waverly Root and the Editors of Time-Life Books, 1968, pg.129

2 cups fresh Basil or 2 cups Italian Parsley along with 2Tbs. dried Basil
1 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. freshly ground pepper
1-2 tsp. finely chopped garlic
2 Tbs. finely chopped pine nuts or walnuts
1- 1 1/2 cups olive oil
1/c cup of grated sardo, romano or Parmesan cheese
I think both are pretty classic and should be to some degree respected and tried as is. I know I have made the first one many time with pine nuts and it still resonates as the true classic pesto that I remember eating in Genoa traveling from the south of France into Ligure, Italy.

 
John S. July 17, 2016
you lost me at measurments.
 
CiaoBella July 17, 2016
I'm not sure why some who have commented believe that other pestos are not authentic. For example, Pesto Trapanese has been around since ancient times, possibly before Pesto Genovese - please read: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pesto_alla_trapanese
 
Yes and to that point the word pesto I believe is derived from the mortar and [pest]le used to mash and smash the ingredients into a paste. So any combination can be considered a pesto.
 
John S. July 17, 2016
Anyone who ignorantly believes that there is ONE way to make ANY "traditional" dish has clearly not traveled around very much. Not sure there is a such thing as one way to make a traditional dish. Prior to the mid 1900's, even if there WERE one better way to make a traditonal dish, the ingredients would have been unavailable most of the year. Anyone ever had pine nuts go rancid? It is not pretty. In addition, frequently most people's version of "traditional" is actually an American (if in USA) version of traditional. I have stopped being shocked when versions of dishes that are American Cliches of a culture's cuisine bear no similance of the actual dish served locally. I laugh every time I hear a question like, "who serves AUTHENTIC Mexican cheese dip (or Margaritas). I have traveled quite a bit in Mexico, guess how many bowls of cheese dip I have EVER seen served in authentic Mexican restaurants? ZERO. (not counting Senor Frog's or Hard Rock in Mexico). One of my favorite cafes in Puerto Vallarta has, on its menu, an AMERICAN food section. Hamburgers, Burritos, Fajitas. A good Mexican friend told me the first time he ever heard the word Burrito was after he moved to the United States.
 
Boomdog02 July 17, 2016
Arugula, garlic, olive oil and almonds, with parm cheese and a good grinding of pepper. Try it.
 
Michael R. July 17, 2016
Wow, that's my arugula pesto recipe exactly. Sometimes I'll use reggiano but this recipe rocks.
 
Magnus T. July 17, 2016
substitution works sometimes and occasionally better but more often not as good as cooking is an art as personally I love stuffed Peppers but sadly I get temple headaches from rice so I tried substitutions often with not very good results but the best I found was riced cauliflower but still not as good as rice
 
anniette July 17, 2016
Instead of rice, we like corn kernels in stuffed peppers, well seasoned, along with the other usual ingredients.
 
How's I. July 17, 2016
I've used whole oat groats in place of rice for stuffed peppers with terrific results!
 
Le D. July 17, 2016
How about subbing orso or couscous for the rice?
 
John S. July 17, 2016
I was going to suggest trying barley in place of the rice. Or a mixed whole grain mix. I frequently do. And I tolerate rice fine. Rice has little flavor so anything that DOES have flavor substitutes well.
 
Magnus T. July 17, 2016
I tried orso couscous and barley but not whole oat groats or corn any recommendation on cooking time on the whole oat groats as that sounds better as the reason people use rice is it has little flavor but absorbs the flavor from the meat and sauce
 
Jamie L. July 17, 2016
Quinoa for rice?
 
How's I. July 17, 2016
I used Bob's Red Mill Brand for mine. I think there's probably cooking instructions on the bag (I couldn't find any in my pantry just now, so I can't say for certain what they recommend), but as I recall they cook up just about the same as brown rice. I made mine in a rice cooker the same way I would cook brown rice in it. I posted my recipe online awhile back, if you'd like the link to it.
 
arbeenyc July 17, 2016
I'm all for tradition. I've tried other pestos, but if you're going to make a pesto with fresh basil, use pine nuts. Yes, they're very expensive, but you don't need many of them. And I believe there are cheaper, non-Italian imports around as well. Walnut pesto is nice, too, but it's very different.
 
catherine C. July 17, 2016
To me the very best recipe is from Marcella Hazan. What I've noticed in all of these comments is that no one adds softened butter into the pesto right before mixing into the pasta, which is what she recommends. Absolutely heavenly! We have an Italian deli in our area whose owner is from the same place she was and knew her and he recommends that too. To me pine nuts add a very specific flavor, but in a pinch pecans are good. To me walnuts etc don't taste right. I took an enormous bowl of pasta with pesto with the butter and it was the first thing gone on a table full of food and everyone wanted the recipe. P.S. Real butter not some substitute!
 
Terri July 17, 2016
An Italian friend always added butter, too! Wonderful!
 
Kristin G. July 17, 2016
I, too, Love Marcella Hazan's addition of butter. It adds a smoothness and is lovely. I use a variety of nuts, cheeses and herbs. Thanksgiving pesto is good with sage and thyme, for example.
 
carol July 17, 2016
In my region of Italy -- they also put butter in their basil pesto. yum. also, beware of most pine nuts being sold in the usa. (imported from china, korea, etc.) many people are allergic to them -- http://www.latimes.com/local/abcarian/la-me-ra-bad-taste-in-my-mouth--20140722-column.html
 
jaxcat July 17, 2016
Hazelnuts are also a good substitute. They are similar in color and texture without being overwhelming in flavor.
I've had all kinds of pesto, and made a few variations myself but I always come back to Genovese.
 
CiaoBella July 17, 2016
Michele - try slivered almonds. Yum!
 
Michele July 17, 2016
I love everything about traditional pesto except for the price of pine nuts (and the fat for that matter). I subbed hemp hearts once and it's amazing; they have a nutty flavor very similar to pine nuts, they're 1/3 the price and they are much healthier for your heart.
 
DragonFly July 17, 2016
I'll have to try that!
 
Terri July 17, 2016
I love hemp hearts! Hmmm
 
carol July 17, 2016
Italians --as precise and traditional as they tend to be on the subject of food and old time tested recipes -- do have fun and experiment with ingredients in pesto. My favorite cook at the local restaurant I frequently go to in Benabbio, Italy -on the receipt of a bag of pecans from AZ, said, I'm making a pesto with these --he used local wild nettles in it -- sure wish I was around to taste that! I'm pretty sure candied almonds would NOT be on their list though.
 
qktiles July 17, 2016
Because I sometimes cook for people with nut allergies, I'll use hemp seed in place of the pine nuts (which I abhor, so always make my own with walnuts instead) and find it's just as delicious as anything else I've used. The addition of nuts is as much about the body of the sauce as the flavor.
 
Tom July 17, 2016
I was just about to comment about the stupid "tini" fad but was beaten.
 
DragonFly July 17, 2016
I love traditional pesto with pine nuts but they are so expensive. Pine nuts were $30 a bag, walnuts were $9. It was pretty good with walnuts but just not the same, next time I'll splurge and buy pine nuts.
 
Chef K. July 17, 2016
Why is everyone trying to reinvent the "wheel"?
 
John S. July 17, 2016
Because life is too short to follow recipes or believe in fictional fairy tales about the one way to cook anything.
 
John S. July 17, 2016
And because I do no always have Pine Nuts. Or Basil. Or Olive oil. Or cheese.
 
CiaoBella July 17, 2016
My 91 year old mother makes parsley pesto -- parsley, garlic, olive oil, walnuts, s&p, grated Parmigiano cheese -- since she cannot digest basil. It's heavenly!
 
arbeenyc July 17, 2016
My grandfather used to do that, but without the walnuts. He'd make a batch and store it in the fridge.
 
Chris K. July 17, 2016
To add to the discussion, Pesto in most eyes is the Pesto Genovese we're all veering away from for whatever reason. Call it what you will it's a paste and every culture has one so go with that, make up your own name for it instead of hooking up with the "pesto" moniker. And don't get me started on those juvenile concoctions the hipster elite are tagging with "tini" on the end, flavored vodka, sweet add-ons don't make a martini Use your brain pan and come up with a real name for your permutations.
 
cosmiccook July 17, 2016
And here I am the lone dissenter --I just don't like basil pesto! I like all the traditional elements on their own, just not the basil. So I do look for other pesto recipes. LOVE arugula! And LOVE PECANS (New Orleans lady). I must try the one with tomatoes in it. To further muck the (pesto war) waters there's Catalonia's Romesco sauce. As Sarah states as long as it tastes good --and as I adhere to--follows the spirit of the technique what does it matter.
 
Moriah I. July 17, 2016
Why we gotta pesto shame y'all? All pesto a are beautiful.
 
Tom July 17, 2016
If a cat has kittens in the oven, you don't call them biscuits

 
Gina E. July 17, 2016
Yesterday I made pesto with garden ingredients and it was wonderful. Kale, a jalepeno, garlic, mint, basil, scapes, ramps, lemon juice and toasted walnuts. No Parmesan in it but used on top the pasta. Was it pesto? Was it Italian? Who cares, it was delicious! And the food police were nowhere to be seen. ?
 
Melanie H. July 17, 2016
?
 
CiaoBella July 17, 2016
Pesto Trapanese, an excellent Sicilian pesto hailing from Trapani, is excellent and has replaced the more widely known, Pesto Genovese, as my absolute favorite! I crave it. Pesto Trapanese is simply fresh tomatoes, garlic, basil, olive oil, s&p and either slivered almonds or walnuts. Grated cheese is optional. Try it, you'll love it!
 
arbeenyc July 17, 2016
Do you remove seeds and skins from the tomatoes before blending?
 
Dan P. July 17, 2016
The problem here is an assumption that isn't valid. "Pesto" doesn't mean basil and pinenuts and garlic and all that. Traditional "Pesto genovese", might, possibly, qualify for that recipe (although there are variations on that as well), but that's just one among many types of pesto (which refers to the process of pounding ingredients to a paste, and nothing more) in Italy. Let people experiment with whatever they like and enjoy eating.
 
Tanya C. July 17, 2016
Loved the article. While I myself am a purist, I say to all of you adventurers, "have at it!" I grow my own basil's of multiple types in my herb garden and buy pine nuts in bulk to be accompanied by the highest quality Spanish olive oil and Italian parmesan I can get my hands on. I will gladly taste all of your permutations, but there is no way that I'm changing my recipe.
 
Debra E. July 17, 2016
This trick doesn't really change the flavor, but it makes your pesto go a bit further..... Add raw zucchini to the food processor when mixing your normal basil, oil, nuts and cheese. ;)
 
Nance July 17, 2016
Thanks for the idea!
 
Peggy K. July 17, 2016
Pesto is my excuse to eat pinenuts. Pricey yes but so is meat and I eat little of that. I don't add cheeses to pesto but add mozzarella to whatever I'm eating with pesto - which typically would be Caprese.
 
Cate July 17, 2016
As a southern gal with three huge pecan trees in the yard, we tend to sub in pecans for almost all nut recipes. So what is the secret to good pecans? Freeze before you shell them for at least a week. We harvest, freeze, then store in big paperbags and/or burlap bags in the root cellar and shell them as needed. Then, after shelling, soak overnight in salted water. Drain, rinse and dry in the oven on low or in a food dehydrator. It removes the tongue numbing tannin and bitterness. Works with Walnuts as well.
 
Rhonda35 July 17, 2016
Good info!
 
Eden B. July 12, 2016
I have a household of nut allergies, and went on a similar search for a pine nut replacement. Suprisingly, canned chickpeas do
A great job of providing the texture and nuttiness that pine nuts contribute to a genovesse pesto
 
Lori July 17, 2016
I use some nutmeg to give the nutty flavor..I don't eat nuts.
 
Nikita July 12, 2016
And at that point, it's relationship to pesto is tenuous at best.

its*
 
Sarah J. July 12, 2016
Oops! Good catch!
 
John July 12, 2016
Do you need any nuts? For me, the dominate flavors are the basil, garlic and parm cheese. I get loads of basil from the garden. My pesto is oil, basil, garlic and cheese with a bit of pepper and maybe some salt no nuts. I've wondered if the nuts are just there to bulk it up or maybe I'm just not picking up on the nut flavor.
 
anniette July 17, 2016
Hear! Hear! I've been leaving out the pine nuts for years. The paste of basil, Parmegiano-Reggiano, and olive oil, slathered on hot pasta, sings with flavor. I save pine nuts for preparations that highlight their special flavor - especially when they are heated or singed. I have always found them to be bland filler in basil pesto.
 
anniette July 17, 2016
Oop! Garlic, of course!
 
Em July 11, 2016
Traditional pesto is excellent. The recipe framework is so popular and has endured for so long for a reason.
New spins on the good oldies also can be excellent. At some point, however, an innovation deviates so much from the original that it cannot be called the same thing. I'm not sure if I would consider blue-cheese-pecan-mint sauce to be "Pesto". It can be "a pesto," but it's not "Pesto."
For example: to me, salsa is the chunky red stuff that comes out of a jar, made with tomatoes and onions and jalapenos, among other things. There is also salsa verde, and salsa fresca, and more, but to me, those are not "Salsa." They are delicious "salsas," but they aren't what I think of when I think "Salsa."
 
epicharis July 11, 2016
Where does creativity end and madness begin? Isn't that a constantly shifting boundary in every creative field? Don't most true visionairies cross the line, and often?

The comment was clearly meant to encourage experimentation, nothing more. This seems like a mighty stretch of thin material to gin up controversy on a Monday.
 
John S. July 11, 2016
(for clarification, I always have "peanut butter". I make it homemade in my Vitamix or Cusinart--don't laugh. THey are both great, but different. I almost always use "mixed nuts" which actually come out tasting cashew-ey. I always have basil in my garden. I do not always have pesto. Mix nut overly cashew-ey butter in my pesto is substantially better than NO pesto. Ditto with hummus and substituting for tahini.)
 
John S. July 11, 2016
I use peanut butter ALL the time. I swear. I use it for hummus, too.
 
Sharon July 17, 2016
I'm with you on both counts. I, too, use a small spoon of peanut butter instead of tahini in my hummus. But, that was AFTER I ran out of roasted almond butter, which is what I prefer. That's sublime. I never have tahini lying around because I just don't like it. People would be surprised how similar nut & seed butters taste. You really can't tell the difference in a recipe. Recipes were developed by folks using whatever grows around them. As for pesto, no pine nuts in mine. They cost a fortune, go rancid very quickly and I don't like the taste. I've always used hazelnuts, lightly toasted, in my pesto. They meld beautifully with the basil, garlic and olive oil. and add a richer depth of flavor than pine nuts. Everybody loves both my pesto and my hummus, so, no harm- no foul. Use whatcha' like and whatcha' got!
 
M July 11, 2016
Agree that this is a weird thing to stoke up controversy over.

But just wanted to note something to those itching to change up their pesto: If you're serving others, be clear about the substitution. Years ago, I ended a long, anaphylaxis-free era when a restaurant subbed in walnuts for pine nuts. Aside the fact that pine nuts aren't nuts, nut allergies are not all the same. (I love peanuts, but will in serious danger if I even touch a pistachio.) To this day, I'll see restaurants and people be really specific about the nuts, etc, in one dish, and then totally omit a nut substitution made in another.

 
Burf July 11, 2016
Now I can't stop thinking about honey roasted peanuts. Swap the Genovese basil for Thai basil, out with the hard cheese and in with the fish sauce, add some heat,... It's a work in progress, but is it still pesto?
 
Rhonda35 July 17, 2016
I'm with you, Burf! I keep thinking about ways to make the honey-roasted peanuts work in some form of pesto. I think it's doable. Report back if you give it a try!
 
VanessaJo July 11, 2016
Playing a bit of the old devil's advocate here... but couldn't you really add anything and it still be "pesto"? It just wouldn't be Pesto alla Genovese. I thought "pesto" just meant pounded.
Yup, I'm now THAT person in the comments.
 
AntoniaJames July 11, 2016
VanessaJo, I agree and am happy to see comments like this.

I suspect that many view me as another "THAT person," but the free flow of ideas and differing viewpoints makes the site more interesting, and helpful, wouldn't you agree? ;o)
 
VanessaJo July 11, 2016
Absolutely. :)
 
Stephanie July 11, 2016
I love when people marry etymology with their other nerd-isms. Yes, yes, yes.

And, just to stoke the fire, it's not blasphemy if you put bison and pepperjack on bread and call it a southwestern cheese steak...it is! (Just no longer a Philly Cheesesteak).

I would say that the caveat is that I find it distasteful when restaurants are guilty of misdirection. I recently encountered "beet ravioli" which, by the way, didn't involve pasta but was "pasta" made from beets.
 
AntoniaJames July 11, 2016
You are entitled to your opinion, as is each of the individuals creating pestos that don't appeal to you.
To answer the question posed, may I respectfully submit, "À chacun son goût." ;o)

Seeking to understand before seeking to be understood, however, I realize that the creation of controversy is an easy way to contribute to the achievement of your employer's financial objectives.
 
EmilyC July 11, 2016
I made eight batches of pesto yesterday, mostly with pine nuts but when I ran out, I used pistachios (which I've tried before). I really like how the pistachios bump up the flavor, without being too noisy. I think the key is in the proportions. The recipe I use calls for 3 cups of basil and 1/4 cup of nuts, so the basil is definitely the main flavor. I agree with you and Niknud, honey roasted peanuts don't sound v. appetizing!
 
Em July 11, 2016
Pistachios are excellent in pesto!
 
Niknud July 11, 2016
I think... (she says slowly tilting her head and squinting her eyes at the screen) that you're right about this. I'm totally willing to play fast and loose with pesto, especially the greens part since basil is ridiculously expensive, but something about the honey roasted peanut/garlic/basil combination just sounds....bad. I'll try anything once and usually twice (fermented mare's milk balls in Uzbekistan being the exception) but that just sounds unappetizing. I think if I ran that low on nuts, I'd reach for the nutritional yeast instead...or just skip the pesto altogether. But, hey, if that's your thing, knock yourself out. No judging here, just individual taste.