Cast Iron

Oat Porridge Bread

December 11, 2013
4.5
6 Ratings
  • Prep time 168 hours
  • Cook time 1 hour 30 minutes
  • Makes 2 loaves
Author Notes

For Tartine Book No. 3, I explore ancient and heritage grains as a means to maximize flavor. I fermented, smoked, cooked, and sprouted grains in an attempt to accentuate their inherent flavors while retaining Tartine's signature style loaves. Rolled oats seemed the most straightforward place to begin exploring the idea of porridge-style breads. It was the first one we tried before moving on to seemingly more interesting ideas. But the rich, sweet flavor of the oats, coupled with the exceptionally moist, custardy crumb imparted by the cooked grain, have made this one of our signature breads.

For me, the quintessential loaf of bread has a deep, auburn crust that shatters when torn. But it's all about textures. The contrast of this crackly sheath against a tender, pearlescent crumb is what I’m after. Adding steam to the oven is an essential step to ensure a burnished crust, open scores, and full volume. The moist heat during the first 20 minutes of baking allows for the expansion of the loaves without forming a crust. Home bakers don’t have massive, wood-fired ovens at their disposal and regular ovens are designed to ventilate moisture, not augment it. I’ve found that the Dutch oven technique is a nice estimate, since it becomes a sealed, moist chamber and also has strong radiant heat. —Chad Robertson

What You'll Need
Ingredients
  • Starter and Leaven
  • 625 grams white bread flour
  • 625 grams whole wheat bread flour
  • Slightly warm water
  • Oat Porridge Bread
  • 500 grams high-extraction wheat flour
  • 500 grams medium-strong wheat flour
  • 70 grams wheat germ
  • 750 grams water
  • 150 grams leaven
  • 25 grams fine sea salt
  • 500 grams cooked oat porridge, cooled
  • 200 grams almonds, toasted and coarsely chopped (optional)
  • 50 grams almond oil (optional)
  • Coarsely chopped oat flakes (rolled oats) for coating (optional)
Directions
  1. Starter and Leaven
  2. Mix the flours to make 1250 grams of 50/50 flour blend. Use this blend to feed your culture and develop your starter.
  3. To make your starter, in a medium bowl, place 300 grams of slightly warm (80 to 85° F, 26 to 29° C) water. Add 315 grams of flour blend (reserve the remaining flour blend), and mix with your hand or a wooden spoon to combine until the mixture is free of any dry bits. Cover the mixture with a clean, dry kitchen towel or cheesecloth and let stand at warm room temperature until bubbles start to form around the sides and on the surface, about 2 days. It’s important to maintain a warm temperature. Let stand another day to allow fermentation to progress a bit. More bubbles should form. This is your starter. It will smell acidic and slightly funky. At this stage it’s time to train your starter into a leaven by feeding it fresh flour and water at regular intervals.
  4. Feed the starter: Transfer 75 grams of the starter to a clean bowl and discard the remainder of the starter. To the 75 grams of starter, add 150 grams of the 50/50 flour blend and 150 grams warm (80 to 85°F, 26 to 29°C) water. Mix to combine; it should have the consistency of pancake batter. Repeat this feeding process once every 24 hours at the same time of day, always transferring 75 grams of the starter to a clean bowl and discarding the remainder, then adding the flour and water and re-covering the bowl with a clean, dry kitchen towel after each feeding and letting the mixture stand at warm room temperature. The batter should start to rise and fall consistently throughout the day after a few days of feedings. As the starter develops, the smell will change from ripe and sour to sweet and pleasantly fermented, like yogurt. Once this sweet lactic character is established and the fermentation (the regular rise and fall of the batter) is predictable, a few days to one week, it’s time to make the leaven from this mature starter.
  5. Leaven is the portion of prefermented flour and water that will go into your final dough and raise the whole mass during the bulk (first) and final rises. Two days before you want to make bread, feed the matured starter twice daily, once in the morning and once in the evening (the process described above) to increase fermentation activity. When you are ready to make the dough, discard all but 1 tablespoon of the matured starter. To the remaining 1 tablespoon, add 200 grams of the 50/50 flour blend and 200 grams warm (80 to 85°F, 26 to 29°C) water. This is your leaven. Cover and let rest at moderate room temperature for 4 to 6 hours.
  6. To test the leaven’s readiness, drop a spoonful into a bowl of room temperature water. If it sinks, it is not ready and needs more time to ripen. When it floats on the surface or close to it, it’s ready to use to make the dough.
  7. To maintain the leaven for regular use, continue feeding daily as described above. To save leaven for long periods without use, add enough flour to make a dry paste and keep covered in the refrigerator. When you want to use it again, keep at warm room temperature for at least 2 days and do three to four feedings to refresh and reduce the acid load that builds up while it is stored in the refrigerator.
  1. Oat Porridge Bread
  2. To make the dough/premix, in a large mixing bowl, combine the flours and wheat germ. In a second, large mixing bowl, add 700 grams of water. Add the leaven to the water and stir to disperse. Add the flour mixture to the liquid-leaven mixture and stir to combine until no dry bits remain. Cover and let the premix rest for at least 30 minutes and up to 4 hours to hydrate during this rest period, taking care to keep the mixture where it is at warm room temperature. After autolyse (or the rest), add the salt and the remaining 50 grams of slightly warm water, folding the dough on top of itself to incorporate.
  3. For the bulk rise, transfer the dough to a medium bowl and keep covered to maintain a warm dough temperature of 80 to 85° F (26 to 29° C) to accomplish the first rising time, 3 to 4 hours. During the bulk rise, the dough is developed by folding and turning it in the container. Fold the dough every 30 minutes for the first 2 1/2 hours of bulk rising. To do a fold, dip one hand in water, grab the underside of the dough, stretch it out, and fold it back over itself. Rotate the container one-quarter turn and repeat three to four times. When you are folding the dough, note its temperature to the touch and how the dough is becoming aerated and elastic. Fold in the cooked oat porridge, almonds, and almond oil gently by hand after the first two series of turns, about 1 hour into the bulk rise. After 3 hours and six foldings, the dough should feel aerated, billowy, and softer. You will see a 20 to 30 percent increase in volume. If not, continue bulk rising for 30 minutes to 1 hour longer.
  4. When the dough is 20 to 30 percent increased in volume, billowy, and elastic, remove it from the container with a dough spatula. We don’t “punch” the dough down tode-gas at Tartine. We strengthen the dough by using gentle folds and turns. As flavor develops during the first rising, it is key to preserve that flavorful gas built up within the dough until the bread is baked. Lightly flour the top surface of the dough and cut into two pieces using the dough spatula. Work each piece gently into a round by drawing the spatula around the side of the dough in a circular motion. Surface tension builds as the dough anchors to the surface while you rotate and work it. Again, take care to work the dough gently to preserve the flavorful gasses that have formed during fermentation. When well shaped, the dough should have a taut, smooth surface.
  5. For the bench rest, lightly flour the tops of the rounds, cover with a kitchen towel, and let rest on the work surface for 20 to 30 minutes. Line two medium baskets or bowls with clean, dry kitchen towels and dust generously with a 50/50 mixture of any wheat and rice flours. Starchy rice flour (whether white or brown) is more absorbent than wheat flour and keeps the dough from sticking to the cloth-lined rising basket. Tapioca flour can also be used.
  6. For the final shaping, slip the dough spatula under each piece of dough and flip it, floured-side down. Pull the bottom of the dough up to fold into one-third of the round. Pull each side and fold over the center to elongate the dough vertically. Fold the top down to the center and then fold the bottom up over the top fold-down, leaving the seam underneath. Let the dough rest for a few minutes, seam-side down, so that the seam seals.
  7. For the final rising, transfer the dough to the floured baskets, flipping the dough over so that the seam-side is facing up and centered. Coat the loaf with the cracked oat flakes by rolling the smooth side of the dough in the coating before transferring it to the floured rising baskets, placing the dough coated-side down, seam-side up. Cover with a clean, dry kitchen towel and let rise at warm room temperature for 3 to 5 hours or overnight in the refrigerator.
  8. Twenty minutes before you are ready to bake the bread, preheat the oven to 500°F (260°C), adjust the oven rack to its lowest position, and place a 9 ½-in/24-cm round cast-iron Dutch oven, 11-inch oval cast-iron Dutch oven, or any other heavy ovenproof pot with a tight-fitting lid into the oven to preheat (with its lid on). Carefully transfer one dough round into the pre-heated Dutch oven, tipping it out of the basket into the pot so it is now seam-side down. Score the top of the dough with a razor blade or cut with scissors. Cover the pot and return to the oven. After 20 minutes, reduce the oven temperature to 450°F (230°C). Bake another 10 minutes, then carefully remove the lid (a cloud of steam will be released). Continue to bake for another 20 to 25 minutes, until the crust is a deep golden brown. When it’s done, turn the baked loaf out onto a wire rack to cool. To bake the second loaf, raise the oven temperature to 500°F (260°C), wipe out the Dutch oven with a dry kitchen towel, and reheat with the lid on for 15 minutes. Repeat the baking procedure as with the first loaf.

See what other Food52ers are saying.

  • Isabella
    Isabella
  • Nancy Winfield Poetes
    Nancy Winfield Poetes
  • AntoniaJames
    AntoniaJames
  • sarabclever
    sarabclever
  • Chad Robertson
    Chad Robertson
A Texas native, Chad Robertson always knew he wanted to devote himself to a profession that involved the craftsmanship of his hands. Robertson enrolled at the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) in Hyde Park, New York but quickly became entranced by the art of bread baking. Robertson's first apprenticeship was at Berkshire Mountain Bakery under the guidance of Richard Bourdon. There, Robertson worked 12 hour shifts where he would pull 3,000 loaves a day. From there, he - and wife, Elisabeth Prueitt - journeyed to France and the French Alps to continue learning the intricacies of working with wood fired ovens and naturally leavened, long fermented breads. Upon their return, they became involved with Dave Miller in Chico, CA where they continued to hone their skills and understanding, this time with a larger focus on whole grains. Soon after, Robertson and Prueitt moved to Pt. Reyes, CA where they built a modest bakeshop called Bay Village Bakery. It was here that Robertson baked for 18 hours straight with the intent to perfect his technique by focusing on "three ingredients and a world of possibility." After five years in the country, the hum of city life beckoned. In 2002, the couple opened Tartine Bakery, which almost instantaneously became a San Francisco institution. In 2005, the couple opened Bar Tartine, a restaurant that continuously redefines itself and draws inspiration from all corners of the globe. In 2006, Robertson and Prueitt published the Tartine Cookbook (Chronicle Books), in 2010 Robertson published Tartine Bread (Chronicle Books), and in fall of 2013 Robertson published his third book, Tartine Book No. 3 (Chronicle Books). He is the recipient, with his wife, of the 2008 James Beard Foundation Award for Outstanding Pastry Chef and has been featured in a variety of premier media outlets, including Bon Appetit, Elle, Vogue, Food Arts, Food & Wine, Saveur, and The New York Times. Chad Robertson is considered one of the leaders in naturally leavened bread baking.

55 Reviews

mesachie September 29, 2023
I have the cookbook and haev made a number of wonderful loaves of bread. This one, though, is my all time favourite. I make it most of the time, and give the second loaf away to friends. Though with the price of flour these days, I might have to just make one at a time.... so yummy! I have never added the nuts to it.
 
miguel October 22, 2022
Majorly whiffed on my first try at this. im a bit green. used whole wheat flour in place of white bread flour for the "medium strong wheat flour". i guessed. currently, i am in the latter half of the bulk rise and my creation is quite stiff. it tears easily. however, it smells fantastic. should i perervere, or abandon ship? thoughts?
i take full responsibility for this situation. i hope to try again soon.
 
Isabella April 21, 2021
Hello. I really love this book tartine n3, was my first bread book.
Oat porridge Bread is one of my favorites. Now I'm trying rye porridge bread... But the results are not so fantastic, my bread was baked until 212°F but it's a little wet anyway... And I have a doubt... I cook the porridge in the soak water? Thank you for your help
 
Adriana January 31, 2020
Is there a bench rest period after the 6 stretch and folds and before pre-shaping?
 
Nancy W. April 8, 2015
Had it first time at the bakery last weekend - it was heaven still hot from the oven. Can hardly wait to make it!
 
Allie C. April 4, 2015
Best bread I have made, thank you so much! The method for the leaven works so reliably that I feel like I have a new companion in the kitchen.
 
AntoniaJames July 21, 2014
Easily one of the best breads I've ever made. Gorgeous to behold, too! Well worth the effort. I'm glad to have the starter now for other Tartine breads. I did not have almond oil, so I used toasted walnut oil. The dough was much too wet -- pourable, really -- when I went to shape the boules last night, so I folded in a couple small handfuls of bread flour, and let the dough rest in the mixing bowl overnight. Shaped this morning and let rise; baked mid-day. Even with my workaround, this is as tasty, and has the same crust/crumb, as the boules made by Mr. Robertson himself. ;o)
 
Dina '. May 27, 2014
Would love to try this! Could I omit the wheat germ and use more whole wheat instead?
 
Janet P. May 19, 2014
Can I use 100% whole wheat flour for the full amount for the Starter and Leaven.
 
TONY K. May 10, 2014
MY FIRST HINT THAT I WAS IN TROUBLE WAS WHEN I ADDED THE LEVAIN TO THE WATER AND IT DID NOT FLOAT --- SURE ENOUGH I GOT PANCAKES --- I AM GOING TO DUMP MOST OF MY STARTER AND FEED TWICE PER DAY AND TRY AGAIN IN TWO DAYS --- WE ALL RING UP A LOSER ONCE IN A WHILE --

TKIRK
 
TONY K. May 10, 2014
FOR THE HOME BAKER THAT WOULD BAKE THIS BREAD OCCASIONALLY THE STARTER/LEVAIN SEEMS TO BE OVER KILL --- COULD I USE A STARTER THAT I KEEP ACTIVE, FEED IT AT LEAST TWICE AND USE IT TO REPLACE THE LEVAIN?

THANKS, TONYK
 
Jef May 10, 2014
that's what I do with this. you just want to make sure the hydration of the starter is similar to what the recipes is before using it.
 
sarabclever May 10, 2014
I just refresh my starter before making this bread. The "porridge breads" are actually my favorites from this book -- I have started making it a lot!
 
Jef May 9, 2014
White wheat would probably give it a slightly sweeter flavor, but you could replace it for equal amounts without a problem.
 
TONY K. May 8, 2014
COULD I USE WHITE WHOLE WHEAT FLOUR TO REPLACE THE REGULAR WHOLE WHEAT? --- WILL IT AFFECT THE TASTE APPRECIABLY ? --- I AM LOOKING FORWARD TO THIS BREAD ---

TONYK

PLEASE REPLY TO MY EMAIL
 
sarabclever March 2, 2014
This is one of my favorite breads from the cookbook so far--perfect for my morning toast!
 
Jef January 23, 2014
Any idea of what the internal temperature of the bread should be? I just made this for the first time and long the flavor but I think it needed a bit longer to bake… a little damp on the inside still. It certainly looked done and sounded hollow at the time I pulled it out but I guess I should have given it a bit longer. Sometimes I'll check the internal temp if I'm not sure.
 
Mike January 23, 2014
I think they should reach 212F, the boiling point.
 
Cindy @. January 10, 2014
This is my second attempt with the oat porridge bread. Although my crust could be darker, and it hasn't even cooled down enough for me to rip into, I absolutely love the outcome of this bread. My first attempt was a heavy albeit delicious cake. Can't wait to attempt my next loaf! http://imgur.com/ZmRLUVW
 
italiancowboy January 5, 2014
Hello!
Question about the starter activity. I am about a week in, doing regular feedings and keeping things between 80 and 85 degrees. The starter smells great, and I do get some bubble activity and some rise (from about 300ml to 350ml on the glass measuring cup where I'm keeping the starter).
The question is whether this sound like enough rise to start converting it to the actual leaven. My fear is that there is not enough power to eventually leaven a whole loaf.
Congratulations on a beautiful book.
 
rynnybit December 30, 2013
for anyone who might be reluctant to throw away starter/leaven, I imagine some of the recipes at http://www.kingarthurflour.com/recipes/sourdough might come in handy :)
 
Tanya H. December 29, 2013
I have the book and am just making the Buckwheat bread with toasted groats. Looking good as it bakes... It has undergone it's final rising in the fridge. Would you let it sit at room temperature prior to baking for any length of time after this??
 
Chad R. December 30, 2013
Home refrigerators are colder than the temperatures one would normally keep doughs rising overnight so yes- I'd recommend leaving the dough out at cool room temp for 2-4 hours to take the chill off and let rise longer (at very cold fridge temps- fermentation is severely slowed). You'll get a more open texture as well as more flavor development in the final loaf this way.
 
molly B. April 2, 2018
what is the refrigerator temperature you suggest for final fermentation?
 
Benjamin A. May 10, 2020
Hi. The recipe doesn't mention when to add the oatmeal porridge
 
Isabela M. December 24, 2013
I noticed the baking temperature is higher than for your country loaf, and the baking time is longer. Is it because of the porridge or just to get a darker loaf? (Thanks for such an awesome book! Just got it a few days ago.)
 
Isabella April 21, 2021
After 1 h, on the second stretch and foil sequence.