Indochina, 1954. It’s HOT. So hot your clothes are sticking to you. The heat is merciless, so you go to Cinque Doigt Marie’s where a ceiling fan spreads the aromas of Gitanes and simmering pho out into the street. Everyone is smoking---it’s a French colonial hang out, for the time remaining. At a corner table a Soviet spy is onanistically fingering a plate of spring rolls. In another room Keith Richards is playing Russian roulette with a Viet Minh. But it’s really stinking, sweaty hot and you need something to cool you down. After your third French 75** you decide on Marie’s Fizz. It’s cold. It’s good. Keith Richards walks out alive---again. —pierino
cup coconut milk
1 cup whole milk
½ cup fresh mint leaves, chopped
¾ cup granulated sugar
Fleur de sel vanille*, just about ¼ tsp
1 cup heavy cream
1 cup dragon fruit pulp---1 fruit should yield this amount
In a medium sized sauce pan scald but don’t boil the milk
Whisk in the mint leaves and allow to steep for 30 minutes. Strain into a bowl.
Add the sugar, fleur de sel and dragon fruit pulp and using a hand mixer or immersion blender beat until smooth, continue by adding cream and finally lime juice. Despite its forbidding exterior dragon fruit is amazingly easy to work with.
Refrigerate for at least 6 hours
Start your ice cream machine (I use a 1 ½ quart capacity Cuisinart). Run for 25 minutes or until it turns into ice cream.
Scoop the ice cream into heavy glasses and add a generous amount of cold seltzer water. This will froth up big and nasty when you hit it with seltzer.
*Fleur de sel vanille, well a really good friend brought some of this stuff back from France. Substitute plain fleur de sel and 1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract.
**And to make the French 75 before you move on to the fizz http://food52.com/recipes/13206-voila-l-ete-the-french-75
Standup commis flâneur, and food historian. Pierino's background is in Italian and Spanish cooking but of late he's focused on frozen desserts. He is now finishing his cookbook, MALAVIDA! Can it get worse? Yes, it can. Visit the Malavida Brass Knuckle cooking page at Facebook and your posts are welcome there.