Maltese Tomato and Tuna Sandwich

Author Notes

This sandwich was inspired by my neighbor Mario, whose roots are in Malta, the tiny Mediterranean island nation off the coast of Italy. Many Maltese emigrants settled in San Francisco in the early 20th century, including Mario's family. Malta's language and cuisine reflect its waves of migration and former colonizers, with inflections of Sicily, Moorish Spain, Northern Africa, France and Britain. Here in San Francisco, if you look carefully, you'll notice Maltese crosses adorning not just the local fire station, but the facades of houses and former churches on our streets. In honor of Mario's roots, I'd like to introduce a classic Maltese dish which relies upon the vine-ripened tomatoes of summer, like the ones Mario hands me by the bagful over our shared fence. A favorite light dish features Maltese bread, a sourdough with a great crust and a soft interior. This is traditionally rubbed with the cut side of a perfectly ripe summer tomato. This is the Maltese bread and tomato sandwich, or Hobz biz-zejt u t-tadam. It can be eaten on its own, or as a base for a rustic sandwich featuring the wonderful canned tuna or anchovies of the Mediterranean. The sandwich combines the Spanish pan con tomate, with fillings reminiscent of the French salade Nicoise. It was traditionally served as a simple but hearty lunch for workers. —Beautiful, Memorable Food