Anchovies give this riff on traditional cheese gougères a bistro-pub feel and a bold taste. Salty, spicy and savory, these are best with a strong, hoppy beer. These are great right out of the oven or made ahead for a crowd. —withinseason
Test Kitchen Notes
Withinseason’s directions are on the mark every step of the way. The dough was a little moist after the addition of the second egg but it came together nicely once the cheese was added. My batch did not get very puffy but they were extremely tasty and easy to make. My husband accused me of disrupting his nap ‘with all those delicious kitchen smells’. Luckily I had a plate full of hot pub gougeres in my hand and he helped himself. The cayenne is a subtle spicy note and the anchovy offers that certain je ne sais quoi. It was a hit and I’ll add this to my arsenal of impressive and inexpensive snacks.
—Summer of Eggplant
Nonfat milk (Or: 1:1 whole to water) + extra for brushing tops
Gruyère, grated + extra for topping
Pecorino, grated + extra for topping
Fresh thyme, leaves picked
Black pepper, freshly ground
Anchovy fillets, finely chopped
Have your oven at 350. Oil or line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Add butter, milk, and salt to a small, heavy saucepan. Heat till the butter melts and bring the mixture to a full boil, stirring.
Add the flour in one go. Stir! As the mixture pulls away from the pan and thickens, remove from heat and allow to cool slightly. You can transfer to a new bowl to help cool, or, you know, save dishes...
Add eggs one at a time. Fully incorporate before adding the next egg. Your mixture should be thick and smooth. Add cheeses, black pepper, and thyme.
Add anchovy and a generous pinch of cayenne to the remainder (At this point, for variety on the plate, you could also opt to dole out half the dough with just cheese. Use less anchovy if you're going half-half). Using two spoons, dole out dough in 1 inch dollops, about 1-2 inches apart. Smaller is better for these flavor packed puffs.
Brush with milk and scatter extra cheese across tops. Bake 30-35 minutes, or until puffed up and browned. Try to leave till they are well-browned, unless you're not concerned about the gougères falling as they cool. They'll be tasty either way!