This is enough rub for a whole goat. If you're only making goat pieces, try making a quarter of this recipe. The rest will keep in the fridge for a couple of weeks in an airtight container. —Sara, Neftali & Sally
dried guajillo chiles, tops (with stems) pulled off and loose seeds dumped out (do not scrape for all the seeds)
Bring water to a boil in a large saucepan, then add the chiles and lower to a simmer. Cook for about 10 minutes, until the chiles have brightened but don't quite come apart when tugged with tongs.
Meanwhile, toast peppercorns and cloves in a skillet, shaking constantly, just until fragrant
Note: you will have to work in batches. Above are the total quantities.
Using tongs, remove the chiles from the water and transfer to bowl of a food processor or blender. Add enough of the chile cooking water to blend and small bits of the spices and salt. Blend until smooth. Then pour into a chinoise set over a large mixing bowl.
Using GLOVED hands, press chilies through the mesh as best you can (there will be a lot of chili skins left). Repeat as many times as necessary, using the chile debris from each round again to get as much as possible from the batch.
Sara Franklin is a freelance food writer, oral historian and multi-media storyteller, integrating all that into her work towards a PhD in the Food Studies program at NYU. She's worked at the American Museum of Natural History on their forthcoming food exhibit, as a restaurant critic, farmer, urban agriculture instructor, curriculum designer, pie baker, researcher and anti-poverty advocate. She splits her time between Western Massachusetts and Brooklyn, and makes frequent trips to Brazil, where she is working on a cookbook about the multi-faceted role of manioc (a.k.a. cassava or yuca) root in Brazil's regional cuisines.
Neftali Duran was born in Oaxaca, Mexico, but immigrated to L.A. as a teenager, where he cut his teeth in restaurant kitchens. For the past nine years, he has been rooted in Western Massachusetts as the owner of El Jardin Bakery, an artisanal wood-fired bread bakery. He’s also an avid home cook and makes increasingly frequent appearances as a guest chef, preparing his take on traditional Oaxacan dishes at parties and events. He lives in Sunderland, Massachusetts.
Sally Ekus is a culinary literary agent at The Lisa Ekus Group. When not brokering book deals or assisting clients, she can be found feeding her yen for pho, running marathons and cooking and conceptualizing new dishes that you just can’t believe don’t contain gluten or dairy. She lives in Florence, Massachusetts.