My mom would gussy up plain white rice with uncooked chopped tomatoes in their own juice, a comfort food that screamed "Summer!" to me way back then, and now this simple side dish calls the same message to my kids and grandkids. Choose a full-flavored old-fashioned variety of tomato of any color, not one that's been been bred to ship well, one that is dead-ripe but not soft, and preferably one that hasn't been chilled. Sometimes, if I'm putting on airs, I'll add chopped fresh basil, chives or thyme to the tomatoes, but I (we) much prefer it without the herbs. So simple, but satisfyingly good. —betteirene
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